sepulchrave

If that's the case your head is wrecked and you should take it off and check that all is well in there. I think you may be digging yourself a deeper hole buying all these bits and throwing them at a duff engine, but it's your munny...

Sounds like the monkey who fitted the cheap brakes may have allowed some air into the system, this then creeps up to the highest point in the circuit and sits there forever. Suggest you get all the brake fluid completely drained and renewed.

Best to start a new thread really... A diagnostic scan should pick it up, it's probably overtemp sensor cutting the system off, have you checked that both fans are working flat out while the aircon is cooling, if not then bingo.

How long have you had the car? What is the performance like? Which engine variant do you have? Auto or manual? Much more info please.

Whatever... :wacko:

Almost forgot the Chrysler Voyager, now there's a gas guzzling, agricultural, badly built POS if I ever saw one! See how much worse it could be? And you even have access to the best free advice on the net right here in these hallowed pages, so if you wanna get your hands dirty you'll save an absolute fortune.

Yes, sensor issues can appear, the wiring may start to break internally over time, usually near the plug up in the wheelarch especially if the cable strain relief support has broken. I fixed mine with a zip tie and soldered the wiring.

Yes, your friend is right, the resistor pack is the most likely culprit.

Hey, think how much worse it would be if you had a Fiat Ulysse, Peugeot 806, Renault Espace, Toyota Previa, etc. etc. The Shalaxy is by far the best of a very bad lot of MPVs which isn't really that much consolation I know... :(

Jeez, New front tyres - fair enough, you should have spotted this and negotiated the price to reflect the wear. New Front Discs and Pads - ditto. New Rear Discs and Pads - ditto, sounds like you're a light braker and often lightly loaded since they're not bedded in. New Drop Links - Known issue commonly reported here. Auxiliary Belt Tensioner - ditto. Aircon - ditto, and they may possibly have overfilled the system. Auto Box - Bad luck, but they're known to be unreliable and VERY expensive to repair. It's very simple, if they fix something and it doesn't work then you return it to them under warranty, I'd be careful with the aircon btw since that can get expensive too! Most of what you have listed is what I would classify as part of the normal running costs of Galaxy ownership except you've had to play 'catch up' and shell out for it all at once because the previous owner didn't bother and got rid of it first. I would try not to fall out with your garage with whom you have a longstanding good relationship because your wallet is sore, it's not their fault after all!

That's not pricey at all, I'd say you got a bloody good deal there for the parts and labour you just listed. Stick with 'em if they did a good job.

This statement still makes no sense since a Ford Galaxy wiper linkage, a Seat Alhambra wiper linkage and a VW Sharan wiper linkage are all exactly the same part made from the same cheese in the same factory by the same morons. What's your point please?

Sticking brake caliper?

The ECU. No. It is entirely a secondary emissions control system designed to help purge the Cat, disconnect it if you don't like it.

There are also 8 valve and 16 valve variants. However, you want the 2.3 16 valve DISTRIBUTORLESS engine which was ONLY fitted to Galaxies (Common), Scorpios (Very Rare) and Transits (Very Rare) from 1996 onward. If you see one the chances are it'll be from a Galaxy and will therefore fit nicely.

I believe there is a tutorial on this somewhere in FAQ's with pretty pictures. It's not easy to do as there is little or no space to work comfortably.

I too was unhappy with the temperature of my VR6 so I fitted a Neuspeed thermostat, despite the groaning, howling and shrieking of various armchair theorists on here I have been delighted with the results, my guage rarely goes above halfway now and the car is noticeably more responsive and economical. Go figure.

It won't rev because the turbo has had it. The turbo probably IS seized or the shaft has snapped, the exhaust smoke was probably the turbo seals failing. Whip off the sump and check the oil pump, if the pump is ok then whip off the camcover, if all is well under there then you may get away with just a new turbo for now. Of course if you can find a complete guaranteed secondhand engine with turbo for sensible money then replace the lot to be sure.

There isn't a 2.2, yours is an updated I4 engine found only in Galaxies, Scorpios and Transits, it's the same engine mechanically as the old 2.0 Sierra twin cam found in late Sierras and early Mondeos.

Not worth doing, but by all means replace the inlet snorkel to get cool air from the front of the car. The sites you refer to are almost certainly 'performance' EVO type muppets from the 'every little helps' school of tuning. As roy202 rightly says if the turbulators of your intercooler are not blocked then there is no need to do anything to them, they are fragile and you'll probably do more harm than good. TDi intercoolers perform a totally different function to high performance petrol intercoolers, they act more like a heat sink than a heat exchanger to reduce air temperatures during short periods of high load at full boost, this is why they are so much smaller. You only need to 'wash' out your intercooler if you blow a turbo seal and it fills up with oil.

No, it's nonsense. The oft cited Relay 30 fault is really only relevant to petrol engines, particularly the I4 2.3 Galaxy. If you have a PD engine the fuel pump is mechanical and driven from the end of the cam, there is a lift pump in the tank but they don't really give any trouble or make any noise. If you have VAG-COM available this may help since I believe this fault to be electrical, it is possible that your loss of power is the ECU going into 'limp home' mode due to a major electrical malfunction like the CPS going intermittant. Otherwise please feel free to 'invent' your own solution to the problem and good luck fixing it.

Why not ? I thought it was only the auto box the 90 couldn't handle No, I mean the 90 is so torquey that a four-speed would be fine. So a close ratio six-speed is utterly pointless.

Jesus, a six-speed box on a 90 bhp..........Why?

Fault number 1 is almost certainly a failure somewhere in the vacuum driven boost control system. Fault number 2 may be related to a failing Crank Position Sensor assuming that it's an early PD engine.