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Ok, if its fish yer after.

Just curious, where abouts is your power steering pump? The bulletin covers an issue with spray entering through the towing eye cover and affecting the belt. perhaps this pump was relocated on the 2.3. If that were the case the interpretation of the bulletin could be that this issue does not affect the 2.3 rather than there is no tray.

Just found an interesting sevice bulletin. This one states that the spray problem affects 2.0 and 2.8 petrols aswell as the TDi's. But says this does not apply to 2.3's! Does this mean the 2.3 has no undertray? Can a 2.3 owner confirm if this is the case? Read this attachment TSB00058.htm

I think someone had a similar problem that turned out to be the secondary air pump. Looky Here!

No idea, but I think you'll find its an 8v (signature) :lol: Dont worry though, I thought mine was a 16v too!

Is this usefull ?TSB99105.doc

A bit off topic, but heres the differences in the DOHC engine aswell.

According to TIS- VXT-75 5 speed manual transmission (Ford) Have a look at this extract explaining the differences.

Is it not a safety concern if its missing? I thought I read somewhere that you could suffer sudden loss of power steering if the undertray is missing

Mines doing the same!! Last week I had a problem with the door not shutting properly Link to my original post Anyhow, havent got round to fitting the new catch yet (if it fits), but in the meantime gave it a spray with WD40 then a bit of spray grease, all was fine till I drove down the road a few miles then "pop" the door was open Its done it a dozen times now, but as its a second car (and i'm a lazy sod) i haven't got round to fixing it.

Thankyou, exactly the information I was looking for! :lol:

Yes, could be, the reason I was asking though is that ive just been given a mk11 door catch, brand new for free! I was just looking to see if they were the same before I started taking the door card off. I may be onto something else now though, just been looking at TIS and discovered a service bulletin for early mk1's where the mechanism is prone to moisture ingress and freezing. Ive not really noted whether it was particularly cold on the days this has happened, but im waiting for a bit of frost to see if it happens again. Apparently you blow it out with a compressor and give it a good lube up! There is also a modified cover for the mechanism available......We will wait and see Cheers Gregers.

Could anyone tell me if the Mk1 & Mk11 internal door catch mechanisms are the same? I have a problem with my front passenger door occasionally not fully closing, it shuts as normal then bounces open back to the "second stage" of the catch so that it is slightly ajar. If I shut it 4 or 5 (or more!) times it eventually closes properly and then behaves itself for a few days before doing the same again.

Wish I could! I get 8 rebated tyres a year, if I could get more they would be on Ebay! Seriously though, im not trying to stir up arguments, simply share a little of what I know about tyre manufacture. Youve got to admit though, they'd maybe sell more if they dropped the dodgy names!

A better all round tyre? That is a very naive statement. UK approved? nothing is UK approved anymore, European approved maybe but answer this, when you buy brake pads do you go for the cheapest? When you buy engine oil (PD owners ignore this bit) do you buy the stuff in a Supermarket at 3.99 for 5 litres or do you buy a quality oil? The cheaper options mentioned above meet the minimum required standards(EU, CE, ISO or whatever) but are they as good as the more expensive well known brands? People may think i have a biased opinion because of my employment with Pirelli but im not trying to punt their products(I am running continentals on the Gal' at the moment). The budget tyres may tick all the right boxes for European certification but these at the end of the day are minimum standards, the tyres are not necessarily made from quality assured materials and indeed many budget tyres are made from reclaimed material from other parts of the rubber industry. Any un-cured or not previously vulcanised rubber compounds can go into the manufacture of tyres and will be remixed with various other ingredients to give the manufacturer a "suitable" compund. And that second hand rubber is what's expected to stop you and your family from leaving the road. What happens to our used machinery? When its past its sell by date and no longer capable of manufacturing tyres to comply with the latest technological advances, then it is sent to our own brand "Budget" manufacturing plants. What happens when it is finished there? Well chances are its sold to the "Budget sector" a 20+ yr old machine making tyres for todays cars. If a tyre lasts 30k then the fact that it cost you an extra

I'm not questioning the road holding abilities of cheap tyres, but I doubt wether these budget manufacturers spend as much time and money on development and testing of their products. Or wether the materials used are of the same quality for that matter. I want to be assured that my tyres will perform not just during normal driving or even during those times when the weather is exeptionally poor, but during times of emergency too. Wet weather driving is one thing, but how well will a tyre perform under sudden flooding conditions when aquaplaning is a risk? Or perhaps sudden directional changes such as steering under emergency braking which is something that can cause massive load changes (This is actually more of a problem now that most cars have ABS) Are cheaper brands as extensively tested against such instances as extended high speed high load running as I know the tyres I produce are? Is the burst resistance the same? Are they submitted to the sort of destructive testing as all the major manufacturers tyres are? Tyres arent just about the parts you can see, but those you cant aswell. There are several components go into a finished tyre and several areas where money can be saved. If I pay for a quality tyre, then im sure that each one of those components has been manufactured from the best materials using the best machinery and by a highly skilled and qualified workforce. Did you know that on the average tyre the main tread is made from 3 different compounds of rubber, that the sidewalls are made from 2 others and then the rubber in the cord plies are different again? Thats not to mention the beads that can have different amounts of wires and 2 different coating of rubber along with other components that give strength to the sidewalls or sound deadening properties. Im not saying that budget tyres are any less a tyre than the ones I manufacture, but I'll eat my hat if they aren't!

Call me a brand snob, but tyres called "Linglong" and "Nankang" dont inspire confidence. I have four bits of rubber between my family and the road, Im not going to economise with their wellbeing. With tyres in my experience you get what you pay for. There again, I work for Pirelli and pay

If it can be heard on top of a noisy compressor and the underlying V6 I would still be tempted to have it checked out. Better safe than sorry. Once oil pressure is up they should be silent, if they are noisy they're not doing the job!

If my garage said "Nothing to worry about, probably just..........." I'd be thinking "Probably time to find a different garage!" Seriously though, hydraulic lifters can be a little noisy for a number of reasons and that could have serious implications for your engine. Have they used the correct grade/quantity of oil during servicing? 60k isn't a lot of miles, so if the cars been seviced regularly then wear shouldn't be a problem, but it could be a symptom of low oil pressure, something that would require further investigation. Also oil quality varies greatly and some of the cheaper brands may not contain sludge inhibitors or additives used in more expensive/reputable brands, perhaps an engine oil flush with the likes of Wynns engine flush would help? Or you could try some of this- Wynns I would however seek a second opinion from a reputable garage.

From my experience with heated seat elements (used to work for a company who were agents for BE-GE a swedish manufacturer) The heated pads were virtually repair proof. It may be totally different in the galaxy, but on the seats i sold, any fault with the heat pad itself usually involved a broken or burnt through heating element. On fabric seats this often resulted in a hole or singe mark! Good Luck though :(

I love my fords! Mk2 Escort Mk2 Escort Mk3 Capri(Still got the Scars) Mk3 Capri Mk3 Escort(ex police) Mk3 Capri 2.0 Mk2 Capri(Temporary) Bedford Chevanne (Chevette van) Lada 1600 pre-riva model(Dont know what I was thinking) Mk3 Escort estate Mk2 Sierra(Thieving B4stards) Mk4 XR3i Mk5 orion Mk7 escortTD(or whatever the last ones were called) Citroen ZX Citroen XantiaTD Puegeot 406 (my first and LAST peugeot) Mk3 Mondeo (still got it) GMSaab 900 2.0 (official fuel figures were 18.1mpg urban and mine fell well short!Ebay sorted that dog out for me!) Galaxy as per sig (current second car) Add to that a couple of capris and a mk4 cortina that never quite made it onto the road and probably a few more that I forget about.

If its only 1/4" I wouldn't worry, mine does around that and just sailed through its MOT in the last 2k. The fact that these are on rubber bushes rather than a more rigid joint allows for some movement. If the wishbone bushes are excessively worn the suspension geometry will be affected causing "toe out" which would be evident through uneven tyre wear (usually outer edges) and possible pull to one side of the road or other during driving, as well as potential noises depending on the severity of the wear.

Just for information- Category A - Neither vehicle nor parts may be returned to the road (disposed of via crusher etc) Category B - Vehicle may not be returned to road, but may be broken for parts. Category C - Repairable. Possibly structural damage. Cost of damage (at dealer prices and labour rates) is more than book value of vehicle. These vehicles will require a VIC check before being allowed back on the road. Category D - Repairable.Probably non-structural damage(although may have!). May have been economic to repair, but insurer doesn't want to. Will have no MOT but will not usually require a VIC check just an MOT Category X - Repairable. Minor Damage (very often not shown on the likes of HPi checks etc) There is another category for vehicles that have been destroyed by fire but I can't remember the "letter"

Mk1 petrol as sig, has its faults, but the engine is sweet as a nut. Mind you, the previous owner was a no expense spared kinda guy, I have reams of paperwork that almost put me of buying it! The guy spent

You mention warranty, how long have you had the vehicle? If the speedo developed a fault within the first 6 months of ownership and you notified the vendor(dealer) at that point and they declined to make the required repair, then they are rendering the vehicle "not fit fot the purpose for which it was intended" as it can not be driven lawfully (or safely) on the UK's roads without a working speedo. Try speaking to your local trading standards people they will tell you wether you have a case. Im not refering to your warranty here, im talking about your statutory rights. Of course if you had the car for more than 6 months before the fault occured then forget everything ive said! 6 months is considered a reasonable period for comlience to the "fit for purpose" regulation by trading standards. They helped me get a new engine fitted to a car bought from fords without warranty.