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Use the search button for strut top mounts (if thats what they meant by bushes) I did them a couple of months ago, one side was easy (1/2 to 1 hour) the other one was a female dog and took the best part of the day! fairly straight forward job but the top nuts on the struts were seized, start bathing them in WD40 now. The top mounts were IIRC

the 2.3 is the same unit that was fitted to the later granada's IIRC they also fitted them to sierra's. Didnt know about the sierras, thought the only 2.3 sierra was the old Diesel lump I know im going off topic here, but i wonder what ford were thinking of when they fitted the old sierra 2litre unit that i think was based on the 2.0 pinto from the seventies instead of the zetec motor?

The V6 is definately a VW lump, the 2.3 is a ford (although I dont know which cars - if any - it was fitted to)and based on the 2.0 unit which is basically a sierra twin cam unit.

"I've just purchased an R plate 4x4 V6 Ghia X Auto" Will you need cruise control between fuel stations? Sorry, can't help, just couldn't resist a joke! Good luck with the problem though...You've come to the right place!

It is quite common for traffic police to dip tanks to asses the fuel in suspect cases, but that is all they can do (it happened to me). Its just a visual check nothing more(its also difficult to do on modern cars due to anti-syphon filler necks). However when customs and excise check your tank, they take a sample and analyze it on the spot. Ive been told they can also confiscate your fuel filters on the spot for further laboratory analysis(and replace them with nice shiny new ones), but ive yet to meet anyone who has had this done. I know of 2 people that were caught using dodgy fuel and they both got

"Don't beleive everything you read, I looked up my car and it says it is

An optional extra im afraid

Errr? Can you post a photo??

A long time ago I had problems with a sierra engine. The car was just over 2 years old and was bought from a ford main dealer, was ex fleet and had covered 50k miles. Basically the engine died after a month of ownership (low oil pressure, big end failure, shells picked up on crank etc etc) Anyhow I took the car back to fords, and they refused to even look at it as I hadn't shelled out for a warranty! I went to trading standards who sorted the whole matter out for me. A week after phoning them i had the car returned to me with an exchange motor, plus I had the use of a courtesy car for the time it was away. I know this problem is different from yours in nearly every aspect, but it may be worth your while speaking to trading standards, or even pop down to see the local branch armed with all the paperwork and see just what they think.

And then of course you have to consider the gear change mechanism/lever and associated interior trim.

What engine is it (Please add the exact model of car to your signature) Check the oil, is there any greyish emulsified oil in the dip stick tube or under the filler cap? Possible engine oil cooler fault, leaking water into the oil(diesel only), or Head Gasket leaking between Cooling system and oil galleries. Is there water or steam coming out of the exhaust when the engines running? Possible head Gasket failure although I would have thought this is unlikely as its not pressuring your cooling system. Or check the carpets, are they wet? could be a heater matrix Using that much water is a lot! I wouldnt drive it until youve got to the bottom of the problem, you could end up seriously damaging your engine.

Drop links definately an MOT item, my old 406 failed on them. Usually a simple job, ask the garage how much to fit them, even a rip off joint couldn't justify more than an hours labour to fit them.

A puncture repair can only be attempted on the central section of the tread. Sidewalls and the shoulder of the tyre are not repairable, as a rough guide the shoulder is approximately the first inch in from the sidewall to the tread (where the smooth sidewall finishes and the tread pattern starts) A "rubber bung" is still used in conjunction with a vulcanising chemical (think adhesive) Screw damage can be fixed BUT a screw is far more likely to disturb or damage the fabric or steel plies, often forcing strands into the the tyres cavity. If this is the case a repair is a no-no. Smooth sided items such as nails are far less likely to damage the ply of the tyre and are therefore more likely to be the cause of a repairable puncture.

By linear movement i mean straight up and down in the direction of travel for the shock absorber, by lateral I mean from side to side or from left to right in the mounting hole. I had a problem with the NS on mine, the bearing that is underneath the rubber mounting was worn and so was the hole through the middle of the mount. The mounts come as a per side kit (1 bearing and one mount per kit) They can be a pig to change as water gathers in the top cup and rusts the threads/nut/chrome rod. To remove you will need an allen key or In-hex socket (7mm IIRC) this fits in an allen socket on the top of the chrome rod., and a ring spanner (I forget the size) to undo the nut. I recommend a ring spanner (NOT a combination spanner) as the offset allows you to get the spanner down inside the top cup to access the nut. Failing this a cutdown sparkplug socket with a hex drive on the outside upon which to mount a spanner and an allen key put through the drive hole on the socket to access the strut top mount also works. You will also need to jack the vehicle, remove wheel, loosen brake caliper, remove roll bar drop link and extract the strut from the hub. Now for the bad news! My NS nut was siezed and the allen key socket on top of the shock rounded off so I used a dremmell to partially cut through the nut, then a hammer and chisel to crack it. It would of worked fine if I had been carefull, but being me I wrecked the threads on the shock and ended up replacing them aswell! I replaced the pair of shocks and both strut mount total cost around the

Ive just replaced both strut top mounts and yours look normal! Part of the mount pokes through the hole slightly. Its lateral rather than linear movement you need to check for(side to side rather than up+down) the metalastic style mount has a hollow an each side and between the rubber mount and Chrome rod is a bearing, this was shot in one of mine and giving about 5mm of lateral movement with the wheels on the ground. The copper slip you can see in the top cup of my pic is only there to stop the water that gathers in the cup from rusting the threads on the rod and nut. The dead wasp is just there for scale!

If you had the job done in the garage take it back and tell them you suspect you have an airlock of which no heating is a pretty classic symptom(so is having not put a stat in at all!). As for why the engine was only overheating under load, perhaps your stat was knackered but still giving partial flow (stuck semi open/opening so far only - or do they have a bypass) so the cooling system may have been able to cope until you put it under load.

Sorry, should say mine hasnt got the heated front screen!

but this will have been registered before the start of this variable road tax cut off date - sometime in 2001 Yes, I know, just commenting on the twisted logic that those in power wield over us hard done by motorists

My 2002 2.0 petrol mondeo is in a higher tax band (195 per year) than my 2.0 petrol Galaxy(170 something) with an ancient ford twincam unit that can trace its heritage back to the seventies Pinto I had in my old Capri! Theres no way that its more enviromentally friendly than the mondeo, for a start I can squeeze 38 to the gallon out of the mondeo compare with a paltry 25 from the galaxy. The DVLA have got their heads up their rear facing orrifices. They are just squeezing more out of drivers of more modern cars knowing full well that as time goes by the older cars will get thinner on the ground and before you know it we are all paying higher tax.

You say you have upgraded the bulb, but what with? A lot of bulbs offering Blue or more natural tones to improve night vision are in my opinion (and experience) nothing more than a gimmick. Im not saying they are all bad, just the ones ive seen dont offer any discernable improvement. One thing I have used with sucess, although not legal for use in the EU are 100/80w H4's much brighter, but do have a tendency to dazzle people a bit!

As above but no Air con Have a look at whatcar.co.uk Remote locking was an option at

Go to a motor factors or Halfrauds if your feeling flush and ask for Trim tape The proper stuff is weather proof and seems more adhesive than the sort of stuff you can buy in a DIY shop

IIRC If I Recall Correctly I had to ask that one too (Cheers MM)

The mondeo fob is for a ford car whereas your galaxy is a VAG car, the systems are different im afraid.

2.0 Galaxy has a ford engine out of a twin cam sierra with a chain.