mumble_bee

you could check for oxidised connections - scrape and re-insert

i had the same issue, until I changed one of the brake lights, which even though it was working.. for some reason wasn't providing enough resistance to the canbus thingy mabob.... recommend you go once around to confirm

I dont have any thoughts, except that doesnt sound too bad... switch off and on to rectify suggests it'll be an easy fix.... do please let us know because I'm a believer in Autos and twould be useful for others

drive shaft

apols I havent had a gal in a few years, I have a 57 Sharan, the switch to an aftermarket nav unit was pretty straightforward.. I don't think you need to change your switches, they should already be rectangular right ? looking online it seems the border around the nearly double din unit (top and bottom) are in the way... I know some chaps have previously mentioned the fascia part number and I've heard the price is between 12 and 35 quid... I can't imagine there would be any further cost..(quick search on the forum for this pls.)

sounds like a deal

I think you want to go to a pioneer / car audio forum.... I was very tempted by the app radios, but went with a kenwood dnx instead..lots of good forums out there

Hi danny, There is a wealth of info on this forum from past members who are no longer around. I recommend you search limp mode in the top right corner.. I just did - and found lots of great threads. Good Luck

The 6 Seaters have captains seats in the middle row - these can swivel. I just can't remember what the 7seaters are like.. but I don't remember that they can turn the mid row .. also I can't check right now as I've lent out my sharan to a mate for a few days.

just changed the driveshaft on my 57 sharan too - common fault

I remember doing this with pretty much all of my previous 4 gals, apparently there are a couple of different ways to do the programming.. I can't quite remember right now.. but I don't remember it ever taking more than 10 minutes tbh. What method(s) are you trying ? Oh I just remembered, sometimes the description of what to do, and what you actually have to do - can be a little "off"

I cant see how using a key manually that has a flat battery will have any negative effect except for the microscopic wear and tear on the lock... - assuming I understood you right. Also the other query you have about the "chip", are you referring to the transponder chip ? if so then you definitely have one... its a little black cuboid - and on the mk1 ford key its not particularly well located... it just sort of hangs around by being a little bit sticky and loosely situated between the plastic blade housing and the back end of the key (which on a remote would house the blipping mechanism - and on a non-remote would be pretty similar just without the mechanism/board/batter/button) Again - apologies if I have misunderstood

you'd see the revs build up and then a gear change when the power kicks in.. generally you'll not notice more oomph as the revs get higher - so for eg: between 3 and 4k revs - no increase in speed just revs building up forcing a gear change... at which point you would start to increase speed again...

2 things... 1st you should consider buying an engine and tranny together as scrappies seem to prefer that. - obv you should look across the tdi range and across the shalaxybra models 2nd have you tried findapart - there are a couple of those type of scrappy brokers who send your requirement to millions of scrappies (lol ok maybe hundreds) and then the scrappy will call you... Good luck

I used these guys for a haldex and dsg oil/filter change on my A3 Quattro, Before changing the Haldex oil/filter they identified that the housing was damaged which took an extra day to order in the part. They let me keep the courtesy car for an extra day and in the end didnt charge me for the courtesy car at all. They also charged me cost price on the housing (£7 instead of stealer price of £22) Have since been to them with the Sharan too.. Very personable chaps - good service and they know what they're doing too. ! They are very flexible with bookings too ! They are on Cressex Road, in High Wycombe close to J4 on the M40. I am in no way affiliated with VW Marlow except that I am now a loyal customer.

So funny because its true..

n1 viper - the 2.3 rox !

Hiya mate, exact same question being answered a few topics down - better you join the discussion as a few of us have already commented there http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/25265-buying-advice/

Hi CGA, Just food for thought: Ford stopped making the Gal MK2 in 05/06, VW continued until 09/10. You can get a decent newer Sharan MK2 for not much Dollaz. The timing belt thing varies on opinion between 40k and 60k Personally I'm not fussed about the mileage if the car is in good nick, which is hard to find 2nd hand because of the typical uses: 1. Taxi 2. Munchkin transporter for me the big faults after 5 galaxy/sharans have been: 1. Driveshaft - vibration under power over 40mph 2. Front Shock(s) - Big God Damn Clunk when you go over a pothole - NOT to be confused with the Drop links (which are not a big deal) 3. Engine related issues - NOT TDI (mainly the V6) 4. Courtesy ECU dying - Never happened to me - but many friends - sure sign of this is damp/water under front passenger seat 5. AC issues - lots on the forum about this - never believe the seller's assertion it just needs gas Gosh I bet some of the gurus could add to this - above is just my experience, but I'm a cheapskate.

I think if you're doing shorter in-town journey's you're probably better off with the petrol. The tractors do give you a great torquey feel though and better residual value. Personally switched from petrol to diesel, as I get older, drive further and lose more hair

:35: :46:

did this get sorted ? similar issue here

I had a 2.3 manual '99 a few gals ago and remember reading about the engine. (which may have had some mazda design input) As far as I remember, the same 2.3 engine/box combination was carried forward into the MKII. Also - can I add, having owned the 2.3, the 2.8, and tractor.. the 2.3 was by far the best in town drive.

2 options: stickers or actual plastic bits. stickers - not a long term solution : look nasty after a little while - can be sourced on fleabay for about £40 plastic bits - on the door and centre glovebox - not hard at all (screws/clips easy to get to) - side vents I don't remember (sorry been a few years) - also cost wise you should be able to pick up the required bits for less than £200 again either on fleabay or scrappy.

hrm.... so I have done some further reading on this... I think sometimes the continuous slating of people who want to go with the conversion kit can get your back up... so to speak. However, I believe it is useful to link to this guy: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html It's definitely changed my mind about going with the HID conversion kits.