BrianH

Theres instructions on the faq if you want to put a remote locking kit on. Its fairly easy to do so and gives you another option at least. When i enquired at ford about a new barrel it didn't seem possible to get one on the same key anyway, they could only provide a complete handle with barrel and key which would be a different key to the rest anyway. May get more luck with VW?

have a close look at the window switches (the module plugs in next to the barrel). Its possible one has broken up and become caught

You will find it does have live wireing running to it though should you wish to put one in there, You need another holder to do so if i remember correctly (i found that when replacing the broken rear light bar). Quite a few new cars only come with one (the other side is used for the reversing light)

going over the vacuum pipes and checking for any that have come loose/split would be sensible if you still have access to it. Trouble is it goes into limp mode as a result of seeing something it can't understand properly. I can't see an italian tune up doing any harm if you can get it to so.

Sounds like its going into limp mode - Best bet would be to get a look at any codes being logged using vcds and search for them on here if you want to try and narrow it down a bit.

The bosch ones seem good - the one i've just swapped out of mine was on the car in 2007(and wasn't new then!) and still started the car now, but was starting to struggle when left for a couple of days.

The rear hatch wiring can cause all sorts of wierdness - I've recently finished repairing mine to discover its appears to have been the cause of problems with the radio amongst other things. Out of all the wires there there were only 2 intact ones in mine, so it made me wonder how anything still worked on the boot. Start with the passenger one though, if you get to the point of getting the door cards off be prepared to replace some of the yellow clips that hold them on as they break quite easily (its only held by a screw near the handle, clips and the top edge resting ontop of the door)

Does the 2.8 have the smart charging system though? I think thats a Ford thing which the 2.8 isn't really.

I had this on my other car - used to be particually bad as the temperature cooled off at night (1am in the morning espically). It also used to do it when taken into the carwash. I found the easiest way to stop it was to just disconnect the switch as that stopped the alarm being set until i found a replacement which did fix it. (iId disconnected the sounder initally but this didn't stop the indicators flashing which became annoying!)

You might be able to get a better idea with the exact build date of the vehicle - look it up on etis http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do It also seems you may be able to program the blank using 2 working keys - it may end up being a case of unclipping the ring around the steering wheel and holding the broken key next to it if you go down this route as you won't be able to use it in the lock as normal.

Its listed as the following on the other site (10 minutes of trying to use the search here was proving fruitless) F32 RSE, modular network, OBD Port, Alarm, PATS, GPS, Telephone, Headlight Washer, Electric Windows, Door Locking The two that stand out of those to me as being likly are the windows and door locks. If the fuse is blown are either of these working? Even if they are, I'd have a look in the door gaiters as I'd suspect broken wires in one of them. Its very possible that your manual doesn't accurate match the car as a few others have seen similar issues with the fuses not matching the circuits labelled to them. Broken wires in the door pillars is a common Galaxy issue and causes some random symptoms so makes sense to start there (drivers door and the boot to start with!)

You may have more luck posting in the mkIII section. But are you sure you haven't just snapped one of the rear cables?

Looks like this post from the other forum > ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)

Theres a few instances where the owners manual doesn't match the car and it sounds like you have one of the affected ones. You may find the fusebox and manual don't tally up as well. you sorted it thats the main thing!

Exactly as Xavier said - either find the pats chip, or get another key cut and programmed (somewhere besides ford will be a lot cheaper). Is it a remote key you have thats not working?

It should be possible to find someone to clone a key for you since you have an existing one which does still work if you don't manage to find the pats chip. Anyone who is cutting these type of keys commercically (local motor spares shop for example) should be able to either do it, or point you in the direction of someone who can. Hopefully you will locate it though

Diagnostics wise its a case of using vcds (a cheap vag com cable and the free version is adequate for checking for codes and clearing them) assuming your using the diesel engine version (which the boost references would suggest you are) The brake pedal sensor message is probably old from what you have said anyway. 65535 ECU defective, intermittent - this has popped up before and doesn't appear to be anything major its more like unspecified error than anything precise - see http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/25224-who-wants-to-confirm-what-im-thinking/?hl=%2B65535+%2Bdefective Generally its probably best to get the codes cleared and then drive it and rescan for codes, though the same combination has come up elsewhere > http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/23800-19tdi-diesel-fuel-feed-problem-r-reg/page-4?hl=00575&do=findComment&comment=170939 I think I'd be looking at the map sensor referenced to in that post and your error code listing if the code still appears.

Starting with the boot door if i were you Your looking for broken or bare wires inside the gaiters (the rubber boots in the hinge section of the doors) info on splicing new sections in in the faqs (don't just rejoin them as they were already short and this will only make them shorter and even more likly to break again)

T be fair to them its not a bad deal to get them to regas it as it if doesn't drop the temp they don't charge you. It seems theres a pipe prone to breaking on the diesel models though so may be worth a look at that first (theres posts on here about it)

Which engine and what oil are you using?

Could be the flexi hoses detoriating inside and causing them to become blocked and not retracting after use. How old is the brake fluid? I

The bolts that hold the door catch and handle in place are on the side of the door - if you look on the passenger one you should be able to see this. Theres a fair chance that your problem has started from broken wires in the door someone else fairly recently had similar issues with the drivers door. I think if i remember correctly they got breakdown to come out who manged to get the door open with a bit of persistence with the key. If yours is just spinning its probabbly broken the paddle off the back of it. It may be worth trying to disconnect the battery (keep one of the other doors open!) and reconnecting it (I've known that to cause the locks to move on other cars before) or trying to open the door with the battery disconnected from inside. If you put the key back in you may find that the lock barrel can be withdrawn if the paddle has broken apart enough (the bits you can see here > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-GALAXY-SHARAN-ALHAMBRA-DOOR-LOCK-REPAIR-KIT-/140480263231?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b546b43f) If you can get the barrel out (keep the key inside it else you will lose all the tumblers!) then you may be able to turn the bit in the door catch mechanism that is normally turned by the key. Only other thing you might be able to do is find the broken wire and bridge it if there is one, then try using the passenger door to unlock it. Assuming its not the door catch itself thats broken that is.

You might be lucky and find that bolt has come undone, it could be that the plastic on the outer handle has broken. Once you have the door card off its not too hard to open it up further - drop the catch mechanism down and then the door handle will come out once you take the bolt out of the end of it, Theres 3 bolts holding the catch in place (i think from memory they are t25 heads on them)

Theres an adjustment screw for the opening mechanism in the side of the door if its the outer handle, it may be that its come loose? (can you open the door from inside?) The lock barrel is easy to remove if you have the key for it to swap to another once you have the handle