chromedome

Have you tried it with your foot on the clutch. I'm wondering if it could be the clutch thrust bearing. Of course if it's a auto please disregard. If you put you vehicle details in your signature, people will have a better idea how to help.

Hi I put this on the ICE section which doesn't get a lot of viewing so I'll try here. I know it's not Galaxy specific but it may help people out there. I like many people have a TomTom Sat Nav in my car and have been unable to get the RDS TMC (Traffic Updates) module to work, well I have got it working by modifying the TMC module to accept a connection from the car's aerial. Works great.

Hi I've just modified my TomTom RDS TMC to accept a connection from the car's aerial and it works!!!! I know what the rotating amber quadrants mean, doesn't everybody, and I know what the green indicator means. Every couple of minutes I get an icon showing an arrow going around and around a car, is this indicating an update in progress? I'm receiving audible and visual updates ok. I can't find any info about the different icons, even on TomTom's web site, so any info would be much appreciated.

It's normally caused by the plastic trim that runs along the outside bottom edge of the screen. I bit of fiddling about and some sticky pads normally cures it. Common problem.

Please search and read the FAQ's. Try here http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ost&p=82520

I agree it won't solve it but it should diagnose the problem. If the pin has sheared, can you not replace it. I know the hinges are welded so replacing the entire hinge is probably not an option.

The "thingy" is called the throttle assembly. I had a sticky one on a previous car. It is normally found on top of the inlet manifold. You can sometimes take them off and clean them, however, they normally wear and the "butterfly" assembly sticks. Like just mentioned, disconnect the throttle cable first and try it as it may be the cable dragging and holding it open. As for the coughing and spluttering at 5k, I would suggest getting the ignition timing checked. Hope this helps.

Check to see if one of the hinge pins has sheared. Open the door and get someone to move it up and down while you look for movement in the hinge.

It was towing a large caravan which led to the members demise. I'm sure the manufacturers could get more power out of the engine but they obviously have reasons not to. You could perhaps do some investigating into the 150psi version and see what the differences are and see if you can adopt them.

There has been a thread on the forum recently about this. Someone had an ECU re-map which made the engine run hotter under load. The end result was a warped and cracked cylinder head. I have a 130 and it has plenty of power.

Use a small pin (take one out the wife's sewing box) and "puncture" the insulation. Then touch the pin with your test meter. When finished just rub the wire around between your fingers and no one will ever know you've been there.

In my opinion everything is ok. Most petrol engined cars temperature creep up quite high on idle but quickly drop when the engine speed increases or the cooling fans kick in. Remember on idle the coolant hardly moves around the system and there is effectively no cooling done. When you rev up or the fans kick in things will begin to cool down again. I honestly don't think there is anything wrong.

Not noticed it on mine. Fold the mirrors in and drive it, see if the noise has changed.

You could use a Vectra as a bucket........................... :o

I had a similar problem on my other Galaxy but was stuck in third (limp home mode). Switching off the ignition would clear the fault. Turned out to be the gearbox ECU, however, I have read on this forum that the wiring can chaffe against the gearbox/bodywork causing various problems. I would suggest checking all the wiring and then perhaps disconnecting the battery for about an hour to clear any fault codes, etc. Then see how things go. Can you put your vehicle details in your signature details then all members will see what you got.

Thanks for the info. This issue has always bugged me, I will look into it following this.

If your vehicle is only two years old, surely it should be serviced by an authorised dealer because of the three year warranty. I assume from your questions that you are not using a dealership.

At the top between the screen and the trim worked for me. This, in theory, prevents the plastic touching the glass at speed. It is a bit hit and miss but you will soon find out what works best.

Yes, a common problem. A bit of messing about and some strategically placed sticky pads under the trim usually cures the problem. :rolleyes:

mumof4, look at the recent posting about rear wiper. There is a link there for a new type. I've just fitted one and it works perfectly. Up until now I was like everyone else,bending, cleaning, retensioning, etc.

Sorry................this issue hasn't been raised for a while. I've just purchased a new style 16" flexy wiper blade from this site http://stores.ebay.co.uk/daytonagblimited for the rear wiper. They are similar to the aerotwin wipers fitted to the front blades Works perfectly, no missed bits. Check the site as there is an offer if you buy a pair.

I would check with my insurance company. Most specify that the vehicle should be to the manufacturer's specifications, if not they won't pay out on a claim.

A few years ago I had a car that only overheated on long fast journeys. After a lot of trial and error it turned out to be a water hose going too soft. As the flow of the hot water was high, as on a long journey, the hose would "pinch" together and restrict the flow of water and overheat. Changed hose....................problem solved. So check all the hoses and check closely any soft ones. Probably barking up the wrong tree but you never know. :lol:

Just a thought, is the engine roll restrictor bolt in tact. Just wondering if it's broken and allowing the engine to rock too much thus putting extra strain on the exhaust.

One of the main problems is in the wet. The steering pump pulley and belt get wet and slip giving "STEERING FAILURE". :) Like Mumof4 said, has it always been missing or only since the last service. What ever the case get it replaced immediately.