chromedome

The Ford TIS is a DVD Rom not a CD. If it is definately a CD then it's not right.

I would of thought that if it was a pinch bolt on the selector mechanism you would have trouble with all gears. I still say clutch drag. With the engine running, try pumping the clutch pedal a few times and then see if you can get reverse. This should prove or eliminate the hydraulic fluid thought.

:) My Galaxy tracking was set to parallel from new and it was a bit fague on fast bends and tended to follow different contours on the road. My front tyres actually wore on the inside edge. Tracking now set to toe in and tyres wearing evenly. So this appears to follow Big Kevs line of thought. I personally get upset when people start wingeing at one another, after all we are all trying to help and offer advice to each other. If you don't like the advice then don't use it. I'll get off my soap box now. :D

Dry CV joints? Wobble can be caused by this (do a search). Check that there is enough grease in the joints.

Try leaving the wife at home !!! ;) Seriously, have you still got your undertray, I've heard this has soundproofing built in?

I believe that reverse is more difficult to select because of the gearing in the gearbox. I'm not that technically minded but I'm sure someone will tell you why.

Sounds like a CV joint failing.

You probably need to look for a Dyno Tuning Centre. Must be one around somewhere, I'm sure all these "boy racers" use them to boost their egos. :)

I'm not sure if the under tray is a noise damper or not. The under tray is very important as it stops rain water hitting the power steering pulley causing it to slip and cause momentary steering failure. Have you checked all the engine mounts as the gearbox mount is prone to shearing. This allows the engine to rock badly and could break the a/c pipes.

Yes it does sort of hum. If you move it about whilst it's running it will probably go quiet. It can play up for ages until it eventually stops. I think it's something to do with the bearings and someone on here has successfully changed them. Try a search because it costs around

Just make sure the load rating is ok. Tyres should be extra load, etc for safety reasons. The speed rating is not only speed but also the amount or torque the vehicle generates. My Gal has W rated tyres and it's a diesel. If your car specifies W rated tyres in it's spec and you fit H rated, you could void your insurance. This subject has been raised before, try a search.

The noise is probably the electric auxiliary water pump. This runs for a few minutes after the engine is switched off to prevent hot spots building up within the engine. If it's noisy it normally needs replacing. It can be found at the back right of the engine bay near the expansion joint. No rear windscreen wash. Does the pump operate but no water? If so the water pipe connection has probably come apart in the passenger foot well, is the carpet wet? If you do a search you will find more information about both these items. Hope this helps.

Could be clutch drag so doesn't always disengage first time. When was the brake/clutch fluid replaced? Should be changed every two years, over time the fluid absorbs moisture and degrades. Maybe worth bleeding the hydraulics as a first step. Only other cure I know is clutch replacement. May be some other members will offer further advice.

Sounds like you have single a/c, therefore option 1 700 + 50g.

Comparing my climate control a/c to a manual version, like in my son's Picasso, I find the cooling effect to be more "subtle" but still cools the car ok. Have you tried manually setting the temperature to 18C and putting the fans on full. I think you are looking to get around 4C at the vents.

On the MK2 with dual a/c the vents are fitted in the roof lining above the middle and rear row of seats. There should be a label under the bonnet somewhere near the release catch giving the amount of gas required for both systems.

This can also be caused by insufficient grease in the CV joint. Pull back the gaiter and check, pack with suitable grease if needed. I'm not saying this is the fix, however, it's a cheaper option to try first.

My TDI Galaxy has the all red badge on the tailgate. So I assumed 130ps. I've just checked my V5 and it states ASZ1, do I have a 150ps? :lol:

DON'T USE NEAT MILTON FLUID. Dilute as per instructions.

This has been raised before. Guys on the forum say that they use a mix of milton fluid to get rid of the smell. The smell is usually caused by using cheap windscreen wash.

It could be one of the main earth terminals, I don't know where they are, that's not connected properly. If an electrical connection is high resistance, bad connection, more current is drawn thus heating up the wiring. As the alternator/battery wiring has been replaced I would get them to check the main earth terminals around the engine bay area. Hope this helps.

Do a search for brake pedal switch. This appears to be the No.1 culprit for flashing engine management light as strange as it seems.

Yes you must have reinforced or extra load tyres fitted for safety reasons, it's a heavy car. You should find the wording on the wall of the tyre.

Thanks for the reply. I must be going crazy after all.

If yours is a MK2 the pressures should be on a label on the A pillar below the door latch. From memory, because I'm too lazy to go search for my handbook, they are 41psi all round normal load.