Amarok

a positive post for a change my Galaxy passed its MOT today with no failures and thats with 165,000 on the clock !

Des thanks for that. I am pretty sure your problem is the clutch or the clutch release bearing or both !grinding when the bearing engages and clunking as its not under pressure the only red fluid on your vehicle is the power steering fluid, it might be leaking from the rack so could possibly not bee seen in the level it is very thin stuff so will spread...

Zaz, welcome... After reading your post (lots of detail thank you) this is my take on what is happening. On these engines the tick-over/idle is controlled by the ECU it takes readings from the various sensors and adjusts the idle control valve accordingly to keep the idle at or around 750rpm. The idle control valve does this by opening or closing a extra air bleed by the throttle housing. the problem is (and I had this on Vauxhalls as well) is the location is downstream from the cam cover breather so on high mileage engines there is a gradual oily build up so the idle control valve gets blocked. This gets really annoying on automatic vehicles and results in the standard posting MY CAR STALLS AT ROUNDABOUTS ! my question to this post is 'You don't drive a Automatic do you' ;). Manual drivers can blip the throttle and probably don't realize a problem is there ! My first port of call for you Zaz is give the throttle housing and Idle control valve a good clean with carb cleaner , also loose pipes anywhere near the throttle housing is a defo No No any air leaks in this area and it all goes to pot. Kind regards

Des, welcome to the Forum. First thing there are a lot of different variations of Galaxy so to help you we need the following details year cc diesel / petrol transmission auto/manual GL/GXL/Ghia/Ghia x you can add this info in your signature and a image ;) as per mine if you wish to get things rolling at first read you have TWO problems 1. Red fluid is from the power steering 2. Gearbox - my first thought is the clutch / release bearing as correct me I read this happens when you press the clutch pedal down ? or is it when you are moving?

st No probs friend ;) I don't know this engine, but my first thought link to a similar problem are the relay. do you still have the old one ? try switching it back

Today I have just done my 3 Transmission oil change the previous two changes have been with Dextron III fluid (red stuff) For this change I got 3 Liters of the pukka Ford stuff http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/Amarokuk/IMG00141.jpg and it's consistency is very different it is Yellow colored and pour was similar to 20-50 engine oil ! http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/Amarokuk/IMG00139.jpg This was the state of the old oil and filter http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/Amarokuk/IMG00142.jpgerence after a quick test drive the box is changing much smoother, 2nd gear still has a bit of a jolt (I suspect it is worn, but after this change is much better) but the big difference is the noise of the box ! with dextron III and the radio off you could hear some wirring with the pukka gear in it purrs along now. I know the Pukka stuff from Fords is expensive but I feel it has made a big difference . I am glad I used cheaper stuff to flush out the box and a new filter and the genuine VW/Ford stuff should be good for a couple of years motoring ;)

There is a safety feature on most electric windows to stop kids trapping their fingers in the window it works by resistance to the motor will stop the close approx 2 - 3 inches from the top. I suspect there is something caught in on of the runners which is triggering this safety feature. lower the window fully a wipe out the runners with a damp cloth OK

Hi, first thing using CAPITALS in you post is no a good etiquette (capitals are shouting) The Ford Galaxy is available in a number of different versions , engines and transmissions so a good starting point is to tell us the following info i.e. 1997 MK1 2.8 Galaxy Ghia Auto. This information is critical to help us to help you. just to get this moving while we wait for the info you said this all happened after Mr clutch replaced your clutch so did your vehicle refuse to start when you collected it ? or has this occurred since you have worked on it ? the reason I ask is maybe you have disconnected or disturbed something and because you are focused on Mr Clutch you are not rechecking everything. I know its a bit late but you really should have gone straight back to Mr Clutch and reported the idle problem, these days I don't mess about with a Garage if anything is wrong it goes straight back :)

I have a spare under-seat unit which you can have for £10 posted

Hi, fuel filter is underneath !, by the drivers seat and usually is blocked as it tends to get missed (

Is petrol getting to the injectors ? when was the fuel filter changed ? fuel pump working ??

I am not a diesel expert but my experience of the diesel engine is the turbo cut's in around 1700RPM to push the engine through 2000 RPM upwards ? at the same time the engine meters more diesel via the injectors (signal from throttle position sensor/ MAF) no turbo and no increase in power or low fuel supply (blocked filter/line or injector)same problem. I would change the fuel filter, and check the injectors are not blocked, regarding the turbo I am not sure how to check these maybe a boost gauge (remember a turbo can turn up to 100,000RPM !! so the bearing MUST be spot on) but I would recommend a check of all the air pipes and check the bearing was OK Kind regards

Don't follow that? In the context of braking, as the vehicle brakes the weight will be transferred to the front - the spring and shock will both be loaded at this point and if you then hit (for the purpose of this example) a large speedbump the upward energy will be dissipated by the strut not the spring. Submarining takes place from around 15mph and up, you don't need to be pushing it you just need some idiot to pull out in front of you requiring a heavy brake for the effect to be present - the further the front end drops the higher the rear end becomes and subsequently braking efficiency is reduced. However as you say the strut itself isn't in question but the top mount is. Neither of us can comment without seeing the vehicle and I'm not trying to encourage parts to be changed for the sake of it, I simply don't like the attitude of leave it till it breaks because on a brake or suspension component that normally occurs when you (or the poor sod you are about to hit) really need it to perform. Understood <_< Kind Regards

Hummm....The struts are there to keep the tyre in contact with the road, sorry to contradict the springs keep the struts on the road which in turn keep the wheels on the road we are talking about the wear in the DAMPING strut mount? not the Ball joints ? I agree would be a problem if the ball joints were worn but as you correctly say wear in the damping strut mount is not a safety issue or they would have failed it for sure don't you think ? and as for anti-submarine, lets be totally honest you have to be really going to reqire that feature (In a Galaxy ??) and I would suspect a 5 - 8 year old strut wouldn't be working 100% in the first place I wouldn't expect my 97 Galaxy to save me if i was driving like a nutter on Korean tyres and 10 year old suspension....

RELAY 79 VW part number: 191 927 841 191927841 431 951 253 D 40 A 12 V 6 -pole Length : 28 mm Width : 28 mm Height : 25 mm LOCATED UNDER THE PASSENGER SEAT NEXT TO THE CENTRAL LOCKING ECU My link after reading further this relay is for the rear hatch lock Regards

I assume it is the same as MK1 ? open the bonnet and look by the battery there should be two yellow caps one is screen wash and one is power steering Kind Regards

The power steering reservoir on the MK1 is next to the battery and you use power steering / Automatic trans fluid. The grinding could be one of two things a) Rack on its way out :) pump on its way out As your vehicle passed the MOT they would have checked the rack for free play so I suspect its the pump, Plenty second hand knocking about The McPherson strut is relatively easy to change and is a couple of bolts and the lower wishbone out, I would shop around IMHO £160 to supply and fit BOTH struts would be more the case These days the sell inserts that go into your struts which are lot cheaper. But I wouldn't worry too much as the struts are there to make the ride smoother and unless they are knocking or clunking could last another 24 months. These are difficult times, I am sure you could find something better to spend your £160 on ;). Kind Regards

Martin, has VAG-COM shown any errors on the cruise side ? also as this is a retro fit there might be different types of control box i.e 1 for manual gbox and 1 for auto gbox 1 for petrol and 1 for Diesel's the petrol ones have a vacuum pump sorry I can't be more helpful mine don't have cruise !(at the moment)

Nigel, it would be really helpful if you put the model, engine and year on your 'signature' please as ford moved bits around in the late 90's and also on the MK II for example the black box on mine 1997 is under the passenger seat late 98 they moved it under the dash :)

Hi and welcome to the forum, I have a P reg Galaxy Ghia, which I have owned for around 5 month's so I am getting the hang of this beast :). When I got mine the 'black box' under the Passenger seat wasn't there so like you I got one off eBay (there are around 5 different boxes). First point to note here the alarm is a optional extra so all the black box does is Central locking. If your vehicle was fitted with the alarm you should see the pressure sensors in the roof and the klaxon under the bonnet. Central /remote locking again was only fitted to the higher spec models i.e. Ghia, Ghiax and Ultima. The sensors are at the front by the rear view mirror and at the back by the hatch. There should also be a relay under the passenger seat, this relay does the business bit of the locking and unlocking after it has received the signal from the black box. compartment fills with water ?? easy peasy drill a hole at it's lowest point ;) I did and no more flooded black boxes

could just be a simple leak but I would get the garage to pressure test and confirm no overheat OK ?

Hi, I think you have 2 problems 1. 2000RPM could be the ecu running in Limp Home Mode. 2. The worrying bit or me is the overheat, the Diesel's usually run cool and you really have to go at it to get them to run hot. when you say temperature light came on did the water gauge read max ?. could be 1 o a number of faults i.e. Air lock, blockage or Leak. As it is still under warranty you need to box clever here and really go to town and get it fixed... I would take it to the garage and get them to 1. Pressure test the water system (This will show up a leak) 2. Indicator test for blown head-gasket (It detects hydrocarbons in the water and turns the liquid from blue to yellow) don't accept the vehicle back until you have taken it for a good test drive and confirm the motor don't overheat (20 minute run with heaters on and pull back at the garage and let it tick over for 20 minutes) OK ?

Turbo inter-cooler pipe would be my best guess as the Turbo only starts getting up to speed above 1500 rpm on a Frontera TDi I had it had a tiny split in the pipe (you had to look hard to see it, take it off and give it a good wash in soapy water) and that sounded like a tornado when you started to crank the beast, like yours nothing on tick over or revving it at the stop but as you pulled off WOOSH !!! A quick fix with super-glue and electrical tape and it was really quiet (it was leaking from day 1) and held till I could get a replacement pipe as it had stress cracks all over !!

Martin, as the TDi is all electronic I think the engine ECU has to reprogrammed to 'realize' it has cruise control fitted I think the default is No Cruise (I sound like a protester :rolleyes: ] and you have to enter a code to switch it on. Also the cruise will not engage below 30MPH IIRC Kind Regards

You look to be going around and around and not getting anywhere, the water system on engines isn't rocket science and is VERY easy to fix. I understand you don't have any money (join the queue I work for the NHS and have