Amarok

It sounds like you have an Airlock or possible blockage in the system somewhere The rear heater is via the run on pump and as you say its cold so again I suspect its not fireing up the glow plug. This would be my course of action here 1. Get a new thermostat and fit it 2. Flush out the system 3. Refill and Bleed the system ( I would just use water at this stage) Heater on Hot 4. Take it for a run around the block and get it up to operating temp (80 degrees ??) 5. Drive home and park up and keep the engine running on idle for at least 10 minutes (feel the main pipes in and out of Rad) I gently squeeze them a see the water bubbling in the expansion tank. check for leaks and that the fans come on to cool the engine if all is well let it cool down and empty the expansion tank and refill with anti freeze (it should take around a litre of NEAT anti freeze) please note Neat as this will mix with all the fresh water and bring your anti freeze up to the required mix. Same procedure drive around the block or only a couple of miles till warm back home again 10 -15 minutes idle and see if it looses water. The Anti freeze will find the weak spot VERY fast. Its better to fix the leak then use Radweld to fix a leak this stuff blocks up your heater matrix and never really works BARRS Leaks is the only product I have found to stop leaks around Core plugs etc (MOD has BARRS leaks Sticks in the toolkit to fix bullet holes) BUT as I said this should be your LAST resort Best Wishes Mike

Thank you for the replies, I will check the sensor tonight and report back Kind Regards Mike

Hello everyone, it has been some time since I first posted and since then I have managed to offload my troublesome MK1 2.8 Auto and I now have a really nice 1997 Ghia 2.3 manual :-) I am extremly pleased with this one as it starts and stops and hasn't missed a beat. When I got her the previous owner said the Aircon worked occasionally. So with the nice hot weather we have I gave it a try and yes nothing ! off I went to work and yesterday afternoon after work with the interior like a blast furnace I pressed the aircon button (Non Climate) and like magic ice cold air was wafting around the cabin. To be honest this was super cold and ran all the way home (25 miles). Today out this morning same issue no aircon but again in the evening Blast furnace again and again like magic Ice cold air con!. Can one of you kind people give me a run through on the electrics on a MK1 Galaxy air con system please ?, am I right in thinking there is a temp sensor somewhere ? Kind regards Mike

Welcome to the Forum, from your description it does seem to be a intermittent fault so I would suspect there is a relay that is not working correctly (Relay 30 appears to be the root of all evil) so hopefully it not a sign of danger !! There is a switch on the dash to turn on the rear fans Cruise control usually a perished pipe Aircon not working :D pretty standard for the galaxy I'm afraid try a regas at Kwik Fit could do the trick if you are a AA member you can get Parts & labour cover From

http://www.f150forum.com/members/akdoggie-41788/albums/service-manual-1997-2003-04-h/36668-instrument-panel-backside-light-bulb-replacement-1997-2003-04-h.jpg Dennis, it sounds like the bulbs have blown on the instrument lighting, you can change these there are 4 bulbs in total go to Halfords and they will help and get yourself a Galaxy Workshop Manual

The box is not shifting to 4th (Overdrive) I'm afraid I have a 2.8 Auto and like yours it has a mind of its own. One day it will drive smooth as silk the next it will hard shift 3rd and 4th then after it gets warmed up (25 miles) drops to 3 gear and you have to floor it to get the box to change up right on the red line then when the revs drop below 2800 it drops back to 3rd and rvs the rocks off until you red line it again and it will shift back then the revs drop below 2800 and here we go again !!!! the 2.8 i going hello 2.3 manual

Hi they are the same, you need to turn the backplate around (unbolt and turn 180 degrees) I have a 2.8 and got a 2nd hand compressor from a 1.9 TD !! :)

Many Thanks Kind regards

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/Amarokuk/IMG00006.jpg Hello all not sure what type of bulb here can anyone advise please Also the bulb on the Auto transmission indicator

I managed once to change the oil seals with the head on (Ford Escort MK3 XR3i blast from the past) I managed to get some rope in through the spark plug hole and with the piston forcing the rope which in turn forced the valve shut I managed to do it BUT it was bl00dy awkward and compressing and uncompressing the springs was fun and if I dropped a collet well game over !! ;)

Sounds like we are back on track people ;) I have a good feeling we are on the mend

one thing you didn't mention was the Radiator ? on a diesel Frontera I had , that would heat up under load, and if you didn't catch it would boil and would spew out water through the expansion bottle, BUT would run spot on the mark temp wise if you pottered around town, like you I went through the card pump, hoses, pressure test, flush, back flush, stat out new stat and still no luck, in despration I got a new Radiator and BINGO never overheated ever again now the old rad didn't have a leak but i suspect there were a large number of cores blocked so it was only operating at 50% efficency. I would get the rad out and give it a good flushing

I have just read the orginal post due to the hijacking it is a tad confusing to say the least.. We start with an enquiry as to why the tickover is running high 1. More often than not the car starts first time from a cold start, but it suffers from a little bit of intermittent hunting on tickover, idling at just over 1000rpm when settled this is classic Idle control valve fault, dirty throttle or air leak. 2. After a few minutes it cuts out completely, losing all power to PAS and ABS making it difficult to steer or brake properly, an obvious concern ! Usual routine is hazards on, ignition off, out of gear, restart straight away and off we go but this is obviously not ideal if out and about for any length of time. again if on tick over it all points to icv etc the orginal post was signed off with 3. Given the car seems to start pretty well when asked, im inclined to think the ignition system is OK but hard to tell. I am leaning towards a fuelling issue, but the fuel filter was changed 15k miles ago so doubt its that. Possibly a relay 30 issue ? having trouble finding one anywhere though, no garage near me has one. No engine lights are on which i am advised will be if there are error codes on the ECU so to sum up it started ok BUT had a idle problem which on occasions would cut out. again ALL the symptoms of a air leak/ ICV/ dirty throttle nothing to indicate a ignition fault like plug breakdown or rough running... jump a couple of days and Was great fun this morning, wouldnt start for ages, started, ran for 30 seconds and cut out - wouldnt start for love nor money on demand, finally started after 20 mins and with some 'persuasion' of the throttle, got me to the train station 2 miles away. Would seem i have both issues ! Err No.. we no have a new problem was this after you had cleaned the valve or it just didn't start ??

look under the car drivers side and you will see the fuel filter, you don't even need to jack it up. It is a throw away item and as I said before don't assume anything plus this would be the best point to check fuel flow. If like me due to petrol cost's you let your tank run dry frequently you could end up with a fuel filter that is blocked after 5000 miles ! At the end of the day its only purpose in life is to filter the crap that can block the injectors.

Its not a high pressure system mate, simple electric pump in the tank through a filter to the injection gallery while the pump runs there is pressure when off pressure off... the fuel filter as it is under the floor and gets missed, by your reply I suspect you haven't changed it or you would have noticed the lack of pressure?? also there is a return to the tank so you can't airlock the system (I have run mine dry at least 20 times now !!) you will kick yourself if its a £7 filter that is blocked !!!!!! the battery I think is a side issue due to the constant cranking trying to start the engine even a new battery has a cut off point and needs a good 24 hours charge.

you still have two funder mental unanswered issues here 1. You cant confirm the fuel pump is running (relay 30) try disconnecting the fuel filter outlet and with a handy rag get a helper to switch on the ignition, no fuel flow Relay problem 2. Spark plug socket (absolutely essential piece of kit) you need to see if the plugs are wet, or damaged or gap closed etc the engine fitted to your vehicle is one of the easier galaxy engines to work on [trust me I have a V6 and that is a nightmare!!] your approach needs to be check and check again DON'T assume anything

Welcome to the forum. It will run cooler and quieter than regular diesel as the octane rating is much lower which by its very nature will be down on power I'm afraid (If you popped it on a rolling road you will see around 10 -20 bhp drop) Morrisons used to have a 30% bio 70% regular mix diesel on their pumps but after a number of complaints from mostly VW owners have now dropped it to 8% bio. The fundermental problem with bio diesel is it's total lack of lubrication which over time wears out your motor ^_^ but hey you have a 13 year old motor , your call friend regards

FAQs ok with me. All sections working fine, I'm running Firefox 8 on good old XP. firefox 7.01 and good old vista works for me

isn't the speed sensor bolted to the outside of the casing ? I just paid £89 !! for a speed sensor on my AG4 (front of the box single bolt) easy job ??

Welcome I can see the tech threads OK so not quite sure why its not working for you in answer to your second question can a pose a question for you ?? what is the purpose of the transponder chip ?? answer To stop scum stealing your prize and joy.... if there was a back-door to bypass the chip it would make the immobilizer pretty useless as there are no working parts in the chip it could be your unit needs resetting to start working again. also when you post questions could you include details of what car you have i.e. year, transmission, engine as there are many variations across the models regards

Before you get replacements check the relay socket to make sure you have a good connection, also give the valve a really good clean it is quite a simple device and should give good service. worth a try before you lay out your hard earned cash ^_^

Best of luck Des I hope you get another Galaxy

Hi, if you had just replaced the seals and not the guides I would think yes BUT with the guides done at the same time to be totally honest I wouldn't have thought there was enough of a gap between the valve and the new guides to get a lot of oil down to the engine. Also if the engine stands overnight oil has a chance to drip drip drip down the valves so I would expect a cloud of smoke on first start up. It is not a combination of oil leak and the breather blocked or blow by via the breather ?? Was the smoking bad after the rebuild or has it got progressively worse over time ?