Galaxy newbie

I would just use the old engine loom as that's working but it's missing the plug that runs to the side of the cylinder head(passenger side) unless I can remove and fit to the old engine loom is this possible?

Ok have gone but to loom/engine loom multiplug am getting 12v to the wire, and when I connect the OLD engine loom to the multiplug I get my 12v to the fuel cut off wire but it stays constant, so think I'm going to revert to finding a 12v source which goes off when ignition is turned off as that seems to be how the old loom was wired. So where would be best to connect it?

Chris can't work out how to get the ECM out to test tried sticking probe into what I thought was the right wire I.e only black/white one but when I turn ignition to stage 2 am getting audible constant beep and zero voltage from the wire. Any ideas on removing the ECM, Haynes says there's one screw holding "the clip" in place but not sure which one and not sure what to do next as can't pull ECM clear to check terminal. AARGGHH

Ok ecu is still in place but there's only 1 huge group of wires coming out the ecu and in that lot there's only 1 white/black wire so can I just nick into the wire and test for voltage there as opposed to the terminal I can't see why not, and it SHOULD be the wire I'm after as well, will wait for a reply before going any further. Cheers. Andy

Also I assume when I find the right wire I can reconnect battery as long as I don't physically unplug the ECM wires. Take it all the other wires I've disconnected to get to that point are ok to be left unplugged?

Right stripped it down as far as the ECM but Haynes says there is a screw to be undone which then allows the clip to be pulled sideways but can't find it. Can I test it in situ or do I need to pull the ECM down to I can't find the right part to test?

So can I get to it by just removing the glass on the instrument panel I.e 2 screws. Will that give me enough access or is it a complete dash out jobby?

Diesel control module? Does that mean I have to pull the dash out if it's behind the instrument cluster, or is it in engine bay somewhere. I javent checked fuses but will check them whilst waiting a response. Thanks for all your help chris.

Chris I'm assuming you mean the single wire that comes off and connects to the top of the solenoid. Had 0.4v running to it and because of the colour (black/white) assumed it was an earth. Ran a direct feed to it anyway and car started instantaneously. Door led is fine no flashing, just 1 long light when I initially put key in and turn to stage 2. Then light goes out and no more lights even when cranking. When checked original wire with multimeter was getting o.4v for a few seconds then nothing and I've checked the wire as fas as I can to the main loom connection(big round plastic thing with all wires) and no voltage there either. So should I disconnect main loom and check for voltage at the pin that connects to the engine harness and check for voltage there as I assume if there is then it must just be that single wire that's duff?

No still not starting with original wire attached to pump chris, only way for me to start it is to run a live straight to the battery from solenoid, so trying to find a suitable place to attach wire to that has 12v off ignition and nothing when off to stop it draining the battery, but I can't find one. Any ideas?

Thanks again seatkid will have to tax it and insure before I can do that but thanks will do that. So if after trying to drive it and get it up to temperature I get the same problem would my first port of call still be the cts?

hi again. Right hopefully last problem. Got galaxy running bled clutch galaxy moves woohoo. Left engine running a good 15-20 mins and temp gauge on dash isn't moving. So where do I start. Should I change the cts would this be the first port of call. Thanks. Andy.

Thanks seatkid much appreciated can't help with my other posts can you lol

Sorry yeah theres 4 light bulb symbols with exclamation marks in them set apart in an imaginary square shape around the picture of the galaxy, 2 top and 2 bottom. The bottom 2 go out but the top two stay lit. Does that help anymore. Thanks.

as above can anyone tell me what these mean as I don't have the handbook with the car and I have scoured the net but found no answer. Thanks in advance. Andy

Hi guys don't know if you've been reading my other post about fitting another engine to my galaxy. Well it's in and running thanks to members on this forum. Thank you very much. But I have 2 inlets/outlets on my airbox that have no pipes going to them. As you look at the engine from the front and look at the airbox there's 2 in/outlets that come out from the side of the airbox closest to the engine down low on bottom half of box. Could anyone do me a big favor and tell me what connects to them and where they go please. I have all other connections done. Ie Maf, pipe that runs to the top back end of box. Thanks in advance. Andy

Checked voltage coming from loom down to the plug end that connects to the diesel pump plug and there's zero voltage so short of cutting it out back through loom I don't know the best way to sort it out. Any advice

She's running I ran a direct live feed from battery to the fuel cut off solenoid and it started first time. So now I need some advice on how to fix it so it works as it should do. As I assume a direct feed permanently isn't good what's best thing to do guys.

Just to add am getting spray over rocker covet from injector pipes but it's still looking a bit bubbly on the top of injector inlets where pipe connects.

Ok, when I first put keys in ignition and turn to light dashboard immobiliser light on door is coming on for maybe 2 secs then going off, I assume this Is right. No flashing from door pin as engine is being turned so I'm assuming this is correct also. Got fuel coming out from injector rigid pipes, and stop valve is working as checked voltage and can also hear it click when I first turn key, but STILL not starting, it's made a noise like it's trying to start very briefly on a couple of occasions but still nothing. Also after cranking from key for a few seconds I can still see air in the clear pipe running to diesel pump( albeit only medium sized ones) so do u think it's drawing in air from a pipe when I start cranking from the key. HELP ( by the way wife and I just had our little girl, got home this afternoon :-) )

When turning engine over with no 4 fuel line to injector undone am getting something through I think as rocker cover has splashes of diesel over it but I just assumed there would be quite alot on engine. By no 4 injector I mean furthest from the diesel pump.

Have recharged battery attach primer pump between fuel filter and pump inline and now bleeding lovely. Have open injectors and turned engine over several times in 5 second bursts and still no fuel to injectors. I assume it should spray fuel all over the engine in a fine mist, so you would know it's working. What next can anyone tell me if diesel pump is coded as was thinking of trying to bypass the immobiser. Anyone else got any ideas?

Thanks so much for the reply chris, that's cleared things up for me was gonna try it today but wife went into suspected labour. Will let you know the result with the galaxy as soon as I get a chance to look at it again

Just out of intrest, if I place the hand primer in line after the fuel filter and pump Manually how do I get the air out of the system. Do I then crack the injector pipes open and wait for fuel to reach them by pumping manually and the air will escape that way. Sorry for being thick.

Ok will try that next and report back, grr flaming Haynes manuals lol.