Galaxy newbie

Hi Chris, the pipe has actually broken. The end of it is still attached to the aux heater with a jubilee round it. And alot of the rest of it has gone brittle, trying to find the best way to salvage it, but as it goes into the sill could be a problem. I'm going to see if I can get a copper insert and extend the pipe after cutting out the bad as I think this is my only option. Any other ideas?

can anyone tell me please, I have a pipe that comes out of the passenger sill and has a corrugated covering over it that's supposed to connect to the aux heater. Can anyone tell me what this pipe should carry. I.e fluids, hot air, as mine has snapped is there a way to remove it or should I just try and repair/extend the pipe. Thanks in advance. Andy.

hi guys, been playing with my vag com and if I goto measuring blocks on engine and goto the block for fine idle adjustment I don't get any reading for cylinder 4 but do for the other 3 cylinders. Any ideas? Thanks. Andy

I've got one mate but I'm in sheringham, 5 miles from Cromer.

hi guys, just a couple of quick questions I could do with answering. 1. Can someone tell me at what temperature the radiator fans kick in, I know the stat starts to open at 88 degrees but not sure on the other. 2. Anyone used vagcom to check/adjust there timing after a cambelt change, and if so could someone give me some pointers. Thank you in advance. Andy. Ooh sorry also 3. I know the weather is warm at the moment but is there anyway of checking if my aux heater is working, as I read it only comes on when the weather is cold, have checked with vagcom doesn't really tell me anything. Also my front heated screen is not working but does have a crack in the glass would this be stopping it from working or is there another possibility have checked for breaks in the wiring, tailgate etc and nothing amiss there. Thanks for reading. Andy. :-)

Hi guys just a little concerned about my temp gauge. I don't think it's been right since I fitted the engine. When I first used it the gauge fluctuated wildly so I replaced the cts with a new one with the right colour band. Now the gauge works and doesn't fluctuate at all but it only just gets out of cold after a 15 mile trip and doesn't want to go any higher. I know the gauge doesn't register till 50 oc but gauge just gets to the 'n' on normal sometimes just to the 'o' but no higher. I've never heard the rad fans kick in and am worried the water isn't registering hot enough to open the thermostat. So what can I check to confirm anything. Thanks in advance. Andy.

Ok now try this one for size. Windows work fine until I stop the car and take the key out of the ignition, then it pops the fuse again. It keeps doing this everytime I remove the keys help!!

OK guys was a blown fuse but the one I have in for the electric windows is a 15 amp but have read somewhere it should be a 30 amp. Can anyone confirm or deny this please. Thanks. Andy.

Battery is fine now had a jump start and battery starts engine fine, and battery was new 4 months ago.

Hi guys got a problem and it appears to all be on the one circuit. I have lost power to all 6 electric windows and also the side mirrors. Which fuse would cover these? I have checked them and can't see any blown. Also what else could it be they were working yesterday but battery went flat as missus didn't shut boot properly which left the interior lights on. Help. Thanks. Andy

Cheers Chris fuse 4 had gone but replaced all the ones you mentioned and now have a working rear wiper arm also woohoo. Just got to look into aux heater now as that doesn't work and I have pipework that runs down the sills hanging down :-(. Where do I start any ideas?

Signature added lol yeah it's a 96 p plate with manual aircon Chris. I did lose all setting on the front heater but found a dodgy fuse which I replaced and that gave me settings 3 and 4 back and I think 1 and 2 are a blown resistor that's sortable but am not getting anything from the rear heater at all!!

Hi again, ok rear cabin heater isn't blowing at all, also the button on the front of the dash does not light up. Is there a fuse for the rear blower as light not coming on isn't good I would take it, or is it likely to be the rear blower motor situated in the luggage compartment. Can't try vagcom at present as mother is away and run off with laptop grrr. Any help appreciated. Thanks. Andy

Yeah chris the old engine took it's oil feed from the side of the block, whereas this one takes it from the top of the oil filter housing and the banjo bolts were different sizes. Will give a good test run tomorrow and if alls well gonna change the oil and filter again and replace all other fluids then onto my next gal problem lol. (not engine related)

Ok got the oil feed banjo bolt through my ford dealer, who had to go through vw, who then said sorry there isn't one in the country it will have to be shipped in from Germany lmao it's a

Lol had noticed it hadn't been moved yet. Cmon admin don't let all my hard work be in vain :-)

Yeah exactly thanks for the heads up chris. To be honest I'm nearly at the end of my tether with this car. On the plus side I now know tons about diesel engines and turbos lol. Have to be an optimist otherwise I'd cry :-)

Right no oil getting to turbo Grrrr. So took oil feed pipe from oil filer housing off and the bolt that attaches the pipe to the filter housing has no hole in it. Double Grrrr. So how the he'll was it supposed to feed oil into the pipe. Rant now over and new bolt coming from vw tomorrow. Hopefully this will have a hole in it

How do I check oil pressure to turbo chris. I have no oil pressure light coming on at dash, should I just undo the oil feed pipe to turbo and crank engine and see what comes out :-). I think turbo was getting oil as the return to sump pipe was a bit oily after a run!

Right after my 1 mile run yesterday with working turbo, then it packing up I pulled off the exhaust pipe and air intake pipe to turbo to find the turbines spin about 1/5 of a revolution then lock up and there's a small amount of play in spindle. Now this was the old turbo from original engine. So am now looking at buying a new/recon turbo but worried it may do same thing again, unless the turbo on there now had a small amount of play in the spindle anyway but blades were turning fine when installed. So where's cheapest place for a turbo, and should I dump old oil first incase something in the oil has screwed the turbo? Cheers. Andy

Ok turbo is working (changed turbos in the end) drove about a mile and now lost turbo again and a bit of smoke from back of engine, did make a pop noise hopefully it's just a hose down the back that's blown off vacuum pipes that connect to turbo (turbo end) weren't cable tied on, do you think it could just be a pipe blown off. Please say yes lol!?

Chris, old engine was running, only problem was it had a water leak somewhere and it was smoking White smoke like a red arrow. Am in middle of removing new turbo now but it's totally shot as you can wiggle the shaft inside from exhaust side left and right.

carrying on from my lack of turbo problems, after exhausting my vacuum pipes problem, I have pulled drivers driveshaft off to inspect turbo. Have undone the pipe coming from airbox down to turbo neck and felt turbines in turbo and they are stuck solid ( no spin at all) stupid question but I assume that is my lack of turbo right? Can they be freed up with wd40 or should I just fit my other turbo which is nice and free. Thanks in advance. Andy

Just to add nige, no the ecu won't need recoding or anything else for that matter, but the engine may run a bit funny for the first 10 miles or so as the ecu will have to relearn all of it's running values. Hth. Andy

Hi guys have decided to post this 'how to' in the hope that it will help a few people as the issue regarding ECU removal keeps popping up. I haven't been a member of this site for very long and already i have had so much help with problems regarding my galaxy (Big thanks to chrispb123456) and everybody else that has posted to my problems. Admin if you can add this to the how to section i would be very grateful. Right here goes. The reason for removal of my ECU was because i was changing all the vaccuum pipes on the car running to turbo(n75) and EGR(n18) valves, and then found out there was a MAP sensor inside the ecu that can often fail as there is a pipe than runs from the Map sensor inside the ecu to the outside of the ECU which in turn runs from the ECU through the bulkhead and into the intercooler to manifold pipe(front of engine). Tools required:- 10mm spanner or socket phillips(or cross head) screwdriver Allen key(Possibly will explain later) T15 and T20 security bit (See pic below) DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!! 1. First off we need to remove the instrument cluster, so we need to lower the steering wheel as far as the adjustment handle will allow. We now need to remove the instrument cluster surround. Looking at the surround at the top you will see two phillips screws (cicrcled in red) these need to be removed, and carefully pull the surround out toward you from the top and bottom middle. 2. Next we need to remove the instrument cluster itself, again this is held in with two phillips screws in the top left and top right. Once the screws are out gently tip the cluster forward from the top and slide the cluster out slowly to the right be careful as there are two plugs that need removing before the cluster comes all the way out these are red and black. 3. next we need to remove the bulb control monitor. This is where the 10mm spanner or socket comes in. Undo the 10mm dome nut (Bronze) and slowly manuvere the monitor out. There are 3 plugs attached to this that need removing, dont worry about getting them muddled up they are all different shapes so can only go into the appropriate block. 4. Next you will the ECU. First of you need to remove the vaccum pipe attached to the ECU (Top left of ECU) I had to do this by feel. There is a clip on it but i just kept twisting at the clip and the pipe soon came off. 5. Now we need to remove the top left screw which holds a little metal bracket (you probably felt this when removing the vaccuum pipe) This is where the T20 security bit on a ratchet comes in. 6. Now we need to remove the ECU wiring loom. This was the hardest bit for me, but hopefully with this how to it will be a bit easier. Firstly as you see the wiring going to the block/ECU connection you may see a little black cable tie attaching the wiring to the black connector( on ECU wiring closest to you), i just snipped this in case it was going to be in the way. Now if you feel the block connector and work your way up the connector to the far end with your hand there is a slide clip that needs to be pulled away from you( Towards the bulkhead) This comes out quite a long way and will take quite a bit of pulling. (See pics below) Once the slide connector is pulled right up, then the ECU wiring can be removed quite easily. It may just need a slight wiggle left and right but should then come out easily. Note. If the slide connector hasnt been pulled fully up the wiring harness will never release from the ECU. 7. Once the wiring harness has been removed, there are 2 more T20's that need removing and then the whole ECU will come out, these are easier than everything else done so far but i had to bodge a tool to undo them (See pics) 8. With the ECU out of the car u now need to remove the cover of the ECU to expose the guts and to get to the MAP sensor. Here is where the T15 comes in. Just remove the 4 screws (circled in red) and slide the black casing backwards it may be a little stiff but prise it slowly and it will come away. Be very careful once out of its cover as to stay away from any static incase you accidentally damage the ECU internal components. Ideally an anti static station should be used, so just be very careful. 9. Once the case has been removed you will quite clearly see the MAP sensor (Black box) and the pipework that runs to the outside of the ECU. I replaced my pipework with overbraid vaccuum hose, although my old pipework looked o.k Note:- Be VERY careful when removing the clips to the pipework on the MAP that you do not slip and break the green electrical block (Circled) as it's very easy to slip and break this causing possible irreperable damage to the ECU 10. Thats about it, i was going to replace the pipework from the MAP sensor going through the bulkhead to the manifold/inlet pipe but mine was in good condition so i never bothered. So in good old haynes manual fashion Refitting is the Reverse of removal LOL. I hope this has/will of been some use to a few people and if anyone else trys this and wants to add to what i have already posted please feel free. Thanks again Andy.