SPIKEYJIMBO

Glow plugs changed, how it was starting is beyond me. 2 dead and the other 2 on there last legs, hope no issues with the starting and possibly a reduction in the startup smoke (one can only hope) :)

Chris, Cheers, Top man yet again will have a look in a little while

Guys Going to do the glow plugs and see if any change occurs especially with the starting. Are the plugs under the rocker or in easy access for the likes of me to change

Zorgman, Lately its not starting straight away, im guessing by cranking you mean holding key in engaging position until it starts if so then yes this is what im having to do. Have had a few times after finishing work at 4am in a car park praying please start and she struggles

Chris, Only had the car 2.5 months and hadnt needed topping up all, is only on the initial start of the day that I watch it pass the window and has been quite cold lately, if I leave it idling then it seems a little worse and stinks not by any means a smoke screen tho. But if I drive off straight away no further smoke etc and once warm there is no smoke either.. Have checked history cant see any bills for glow plugs car is a Y 2001 and 102000 miles so should probably get them changed

I seem to be forever putting posts on here with regards my galaxy. This may be because I have never owned a diesel or possibly paranoid just glad you lot are here with help and advice:lol: . Since owning her everytime I initially start her up a puff of smoke white/grey and smokey smelling comes out the exhaust and past the passenger window, not the aux heater as this dont work, have been assured this is perfectly normal but I am unsure. I dont get smoke at any other time and no issues with performance etc. Can some of you shed some light into whether this is normal and what can be done, I did notice using bp ultimate seemed to help but now using the equivalent shell version its there. Many thanks

Spoke with my mechanic earlier with regards the oil used in the service he said he was advised by vw service dept where he buys all his servicing bits from it was good to use as mileage was over 100,000.. However he will change the oil in my car and fit my new glow plugs for free on wednesday, hopefully she will start a little better then too <_< Think thats a fairly decent outcome Many thanks all that posted

Hi Jayton I have the remainder of the oil it says ACEA A3/B4; VW 501 01 / 505 00 / API SL/CF Probably going to drain it out and re fill

Thanks all for replies the mechanic doing it was an Audi and vw mechanic before leaving the trade and doing bits on the side he also currently does mot testing. Was hoping the oil would be ok as it's specifically for vw according to the bottle however that don't seem to be the case I'm now unsure what to do due to conflicting statements and cost.

Cleared all codes went for a long drive came home and re scanned codes for aux heater 5x01414 all there again will drop heater have a look and clean up inside with a plug change when it gets warmer 01135 interior monitoring sensors intermattant my guess part of the alarm will investigate with the wiring as Im sure I have read the sensors are in the pillars bit wiring in the lights but most curious about 00926 terminal 30 002 lower limit exceeded have not got a clue here have been having some starting issues these last few days could this be related and something I could pass on to the dealer for rectification on the warranty

Chris, Have read that the 10w40 can be used also.. Do you think it likely that it was cause issues short term if I have another change in say 6 months

Have had a service on the galaxy as some may know and the oil used was synta part synthetic 10w40 I had said that a 5w40 should have been used but after mechanic made a few calls he said that the 10w40 was fine this was before he put it in so not trying to wriggle out of anything. After reading loads of posts on here and through google I am now unsure if this would cause any damage to my engine or performance, I do approx 8k a year and consists of school run and work Cheers all

Mirez, Glad you shed some info on that I thought I was going mad and imagining the stereo volume going up and down when driving and slowing etc Best cancel that doctors appt ^_^ Cheers

Hi, I added a post not so long ago with prices and part numbers of the run on pump (additional water pump)from both gsf and euro car parts, please dont get ripped off with ford prices as these were over

Bill, The only thing it says is 5 faults found 01414 combustion air blower (v6) 36-00 - open circuit I had read that you can use vag com to start the fan but I havnt had much luck with this, cleared the faults but they are slowly coming back also have picked up some others 01135 interior monitoring sensors 35-10 intermittent 01189 front air distribution flap motor (v145)009 open to short or ground and one about fuse 30 cant remember the code Chris, When I get a spare moment will drop it down and have a look/clean up think thats the way forward with a glow plug change once down aswell even thought the run on pump is changed and flowing hot water around the car is it still normal for the temp guage on the dash to fluctuate when the blowers are on? Mant thanks

All, Cleared the fault codes on the aux heater 5x 01414 they are slowly starting to return though, have googled the code and checked the forum but dont get a definative on what the problem is apart from something to do with the fan if I remember correctly could this be fixed I had no flame out errors..The heater underneath now gets warm however the exhaust does not. run on pump replaced and working. Slowly starting to make progress but keep hitting hurdles all the way.. Any help is greatly appreciated Cheers all

Quick update on the booster heater, removed all the gaffer tape around the plug and pulled the plug out, wiring was good however some one had placed a piece of cardboard between the connectors hence no response on the vag com..Just got home plugged her in and hey presto found the aux heater and 5 codes all the same 01414 (whats this?) so have cleared these and will check if they come back.Run on pump also replaced with the service and I get the lovely humm you lot all get so a constructive day I think.... full service run on pump installed and vag com working froperly All make for me being one happy bunny Thanks all that contributed to the post and special thanks to both Bill and Chris you two have been legends

Chris, Had a better look earlier after I removed the gaffer tape can see the plug you were on about and the red wire you are talking about, tried to pull the plug out however it seems stuck (posibly more force required) and still looks in tact quite clean and little to no rusting..when you say bypass the plug am I right in thinking remove the red wire from both parts of the socket and join them together with perhaps something like a spade connector

Ok all, Have vag com installed as of yesterday and have been scanning the galaxy, removed some old codes as they have not re appeared however it wont let me access quite alot of modules does anyone have an idea as to why this is or should I re install it agan on my laptop, using vcds lite downloaded directly from ross tech Many thanks

Chris, This talk of by passing plugs is beyond me, will remove the gaffer tape some one has half hastily applied and have a better look, might have to be a job for the brother in law or mechanic. At least however I seem to be moving in the right direction for the heating, new run on pump gets put in on tue so fingers crossed

Had a quick nosey under the car and can see some wires going into the back of the heater, however some one has covered them in stupid ammounts of black gaffer tape, im guessing there was a fault or something previous to my ownership. Should I find there is a corroded or broken wire is it easily fixed?

Chris, Can open engine,immobiliser,brakes and a couple of others but aux heater and a few more get the no module found show up, had a read of the ross tech website and changed the latency of the port down to 2 as recomended mine was on 16 so hopefully this might make a difference when I scan again..Have checked fuse 12, a clear 25amp jobby its there and in working condition which leads me on to the wiring When you say "reach up in the gap at the end of the heater" in guessing you mean the aux heater under the car?. The mrs is on nights for the next 2 days so will try and take a peek if I get a chance. Is the wiring part an easy fix?

Ok, re installed the software from the ross tech website,seems to run much better however cant access the aux heater module keeps saying something like no control module found quite gutted at this because I want to get the aux heater working could it be because the run on pump isnt working??, had a scan on other modules and get the same reply, did however remover an immobiliser fault that hasnt returned yet and fault code 01135 interior sensor or something similar will check back in a few days.. Bill would like to say a big thanks to you as your help has been fantastic.. Still have the clicking though guys/girls any ideas

Bill, Many thanks for all your advice, vag-com set up had a quick scan and cleared an immobiliser fault went to check the heater module but couldnt open it for some reason then windows informed me vag com had stopped responding, so going to have another try shortly will keep you posted

Ok so vag com has arrived today, only ordered it yesterday, cheers chris for the link to the correct one very much appreciated.Sorry for all the questions but I have the disk that came with it however is the free download from ross tech better and is it just a simple case of clicking download? Once vag com is running is it possible I can accidently delete bits from the car when plugged in as im a complete computer novice and my luck lately is pretty bad. Once I have changed the run on pump am I likely to have a more constant engine temperature and heat or is that achieved also with the glow plug changed in the heater, was chilly today and the mrs was complaining the kids were cold so realy want to try and sort this out Cheers all