morticiaskeeper

The NSU RO80 (classic car of my dreams) had a special wave involving fingers, the number of fingers shown was equal to the number of Rotary engines changed :ph34r: The Galaxy/Alhambra/Sharan wave could possibly be number of auxilliary heater plugs replaced. Or number of wet floors. Or number of gear cable mountings. Or perhaps it could be number of times you've heard owners asking if the tyres really need to be reinforced. Mine is just a hint of smugness that my Sharan is costing less to run and polluting less (LPG) :unsure:

I had a 1.8 D escort die on me, while I was overtaking on the Motorway :wacko: There was a valve that needed a 12v supply to keep the engine running, when the wire broke off, the engine stopped. The seat needed a clean as well :rolleyes:

We got on ok with our freeview box for a year, but then the signal started to go, about the same time as the vodaphone signal :lol: Now we've gone for the basic sky package and hardly watch the terrestrial channels

Sounds like the power steering belt slipping. Check it for tightness.

Lift the bonnet, look to the offside (your right as you face the car). Above the coolant bottle there is a full width fibre bulkhead. Look above that and you will see the wiper mechanism. The pollen filter is behind that :unsure: Yes, you can get to it, you just need very small hands, and plenty of them

Sounds like a wet central locking unit to me. Look under the passenger seat. The electronics box is the central locking computer. Is there any moisture around it? If there is, it's coming from the scuttle drains or the washer pipe. The washer pipe for the rear door has a joint near the passenger seat. The scuttle drains channel water from the windscreen to the rear of the front wheel arches. Lift the bonnet and look in the far corners behind the wiper mechanism and the pollen filter. If the pollen filter is wet, that. will be where the water is getting in. I clear my scuttle drains by pushing a small carbon rod, like a curtain rail, from the back of the engine bay right down until I can see the rod come out of the flap in the rear of the wheel arch. You will need to partially remove the arche liner by removing a few of the torx screws. The flap can get clogged up with debris. If the clu is wet, disconnect it and let it dry in the house, and pray ;) Mine survived, but the window closing is kaput. If everything is dry, I would take a good look at the wires through the door hinges.

40 year old married male, sole driver, parked on drive, LPG. 3 points SP30. Diabetic.

We were up before them, about 6. Last year we told the eldest to not come into our room without 2 cups of tea. She came in at 4:30, but at least she did the tea.

Don't bother with WAP anymore. Opera works on a lot of phones and gives full HTML access. Or I put the wifi SD card in my satnav and go Wifi

I've been used to it doing that for so long in Opera that I didn't notice the change, thanks. Now, how about the back button sometimes not working :ph34r:

There are a load of yellow plastic clips holding the door card on. I think it's 11 in total. A proper tool is wonderful for undoing the clips - Machine Mart

We've been using these for a couple of years for team kite display practice. Everyone has a small radio & earpiece and Number 1 has the mp3 player. Most of the transmitters have preset stations, but there is one on eBay with 205 channels & 4 presets. Rather than the usual Radio2 area, I've set my presets at the ends of the bands. My work van radio and Sharan radio have 2 preset channels that correspond to the first 2 presets on the transmitter.

Ford bits, or at least engineering. Brake calipers - seem very ford to me, including the need for a 7mm allen key Door lock motors, just put a mondeo motor on a Sharan Whole locking system, don't VW use pneumatic? Although the locks suffer from the usual Golf problems in the wet/cold. Definitely a parts bin special, although nowhere near the ultimate parts bin special - the G Wagon :)

Today Fitted new stereo in Sharan - SD card and USB keyring compatible. But still haven't got to the bottom of the ABS light. Learnt Bassline to at least 5 songs. Copied quad line kite dimensions from template into AutoCAD. Decided to veg the rest of the day. Until..... 6pm I looked at the pile of precut ripstop nylon sail cloth just waiting to be made into an inflatable lifter kite. So..... 2 hours later, exhausted after manning an industrial sewing machine :-0 I've given up for the night. Night, Night

Have a look at the gearbox end. If the cable outer jumps out of it's mounting bracket, it can creep back in over time, letting you think the problem is fixed. Id the cable comes out easily, either replace the bracket, or get some cable ties.

Unlike the power steering pump pivot bolt on the ADY engine - bloody 16mm :) Who the hell specifies 16 bloody mm? And who made it so dificult to get to the speedo backlight bulbs? And who made it so difficult to get to the brake light switch? And who the hell made it so difficult to get to the vent box? Not even going to try geting to the ABS controller :) Had a bad morning - rant over :blink:

My version (5) of Ekta soesn't need to go anywhere, it just installed straight off the discs. Bought from a certain auction site, listings will probably not say ETKA, just search for parts catalogues. Etka covers my whole car, being a VW, but if you want to cover all the little ford bits, perhaps the Ford system would be better.

Sounds like a noisy clutch release bearing. Keep going with it until it gets worse. Had a Pug 307 that did that for 100k miles from new

Should be a 7mm allen key. Most car shops will sell the Draper key with a handle.

Good chance it's one of the cables popped out of the bracket. There is a U shaped bracket on top of the box that the gear cable outers clip into. If one of the cables pops out (mine did it on a quick gear change) everything gets a bit floaty. If it keeps going, either replace the bracket, or use a cable tie to persuade the cable to stay in place.

Cololur coded replacement wire is the way to go, but I didn't realise there was no colours whatsoever until I stripped the cable back this morning :blink: Daft thing is, I work at the distributors :ph34r: I've made a list of what the original colour was versus the colour or number it is now. Copies of this list have been printed and stored in the car paperwork folder, the service manual and the rear wheelarch cubby hole. sometime, I will transfer the new details to the service manual wiring diagram. The soldering instructions were good, relieved to know someone agrees with the way I did things, or, put the other way, I did it right :blink: Now, could we have one on loose connections on the abs controller, how to dig your way into even seeing the abs controller, replacing the lpg vaporiser, tightening the power steering belt, changing the rear shocks with a gas tank in the way and freeing off seized caliper bleed nipples <_< Well done

If anybody is replacing a length of wiring, as I did today on the tailgate, go to an electrical distributor and ask for extra flexible cable. The stuff I used is called YY. I used one 7 core and two 4 core to replace the whole tailgate cabling from just below the rear seatbelt mount to up inside the tailgate. YY cable is designed for machinery, so isn't colour coded, but each core has a number printed all along the sleeve. Do yourself a list of what goes where.

If anybody has the dreaded tailgate wiring problems; The rubber boots come complete with the clips that break going into the metal work. 2 boots for

During the fuel crisis, certain hauliers were allowed to use red diesel, providing they kept meticulous records of its' use and paid a set amount of duty per litre used. I was working for a Commercial Vehicle dealer and was told about this by a, shall we say, less than reputable haulier. Within a few days, I had seen the letter from HMC&E at a number of my customers. We were alright, the local Ambulance service let us fill up from their tank and then invoiced us later. Because they were an emergency service, no one held up their deliveries.

Got it done - forced the handle bezel off, got the cable out of the handle, applied mole grips, pulled :( Tried locking/unlocking with mole grips - worked fine. Tried locking/unlocking with handle - don't work - must be a stretched cable. Mole grips are installed until I can get a new cable, plus door trim clips, cos' I know they'll break removing the door card. The motor was disconnected a couple of weeks ago due to a locking then unlocking problem, will reconnect when the cable is replaced to see if that was the fault.