morticiaskeeper

You can buy an adaptor to do the live wire swap for you. Incardiscount.co.uk had them in stock (I live nearby). I bet even Halfrauds do them.

I thought about that, but my MOT tester said that it must have a CAT fitted if it was made as a petrol car from 93 onwards.

I've taken a tap off the 12v sockets in the boot. They're rated at 20A. I've put a plug inside the trim panel that I can plug my amp into. The amp is mounted on a board with jack speaker sockets. Also inside the panel I've routed phono plugs from the head unit and a switched positive to remote power the amp. Mind you, all my system is for is a 12v pa. A Bill Fitzmaurice Omni 10.5 250W cab and a Spirit Folio mixer to give mic & mp3 inputs. Purely in the interests of running the cab driver in :rolleyes: I connected the head unit and strapped the cab down to the seat mountings. Quite funny how cheap my system was compared to the boy racer brigade, standing outside the car and watching the glass move!!

Thanks Wolfie All I'm after is the location of the oil filler. I found a plug but wasn't sure if that was the filler as well as the drain. ElsaWin says it is, so I'll check that tomorrow. There's a bit of oil around the housing, but the previous owner had a oil seal porblem so it may just be a lack of cleaning by the garage. Annoying thing is, I bought EKTA, I can even see the CD case, but it's empty :rolleyes: Bet the kids have eaten it!

My engines is a VW, the ADY was used in golfs & Passats. Only markings I can find on the casing are: 957T-7F086.

I'm trying to find out what gearbox I've got. Can't read any numbers on the box, VIN plate doesn't show anything. It's a 1995 VW Sharan CL 2 litre ADY engine Manual 5 speed Elsawin gives a choice of CYE DAG DAH DBU Anyone have any idea?

I bought a new rubber boot, a metre of multicore "SY" cable and a lot of heatshrink. Cut all the cables in the pillar. Cut all the cables in the tailgate. Thread the SY through the join. Solder each individual wire and cover with heatshrink. The SY cable is extra flexible cable meant for process machines. Most electrical wholesalers will sell it. I also threaded a bit of string through the join so I can pull something through in the future - like the reversing radar wires that I forgot about :-(

It's gone - not surprisingly

Quick way - Lift the bonnet, look in the far back corner behind the wiper linkages. There is a small hole leading down to the rear of the wheel arch. Shove something long and thin down there. I use a bit of 2mm carbon fibre rod, but then, making kites, I've always got some in stock. 4 - 5mm grp rod is available from a curtain shop. 3mm grp from B & Q. Best way - Undo all the little torx screws holding the inner arch cover in the wheel arch, remove the cover. Look to the rear of the arch and there will be 2 little rubber flaps. These are covering the drain holes. Fingers behind the flaps will clear a lot of crud. Then shove your rod (ooo er, missus!) up the drain hole, look under the bonnet and see where the rod appears - now you know where to shove the rod next time!! Don't forget to do both sides and to clear all debris you can reach from under the wiper mechanism. Also make sure the air filter on the right is clipped into its' holder. I do the "rod from the top" once a month and the "fingers up the drain" once a year. Once you've removed the inner arch once, you'll be able to just take a few screws out and pull it back to find the flaps next time. Also, unbolt the central locking box from the floor, put a couple of spacers on the studs, I used 8mm nuts, then bolt it back down.

I've just seen a R plate Sharan Tdi, Auto in blue on a dealers forecourt in Gloucester.

I couldn't afford to run on petrol, or at least do the driving that I do. But, If I were in the market for a replacement car, which may happen by the end of the year, I would probably go for the diesel. The cost of converting a petrol to LPG is prohibitively expensive for someone on my income. Paying extra each time I need to fill up is ok, paying out in a lump sum is impossible. Not just a money saving exercise, it is better for the engine, but mostly it's money. Unless you buy from BP, who do all they can to rip us off:-(

The nerve was hit :unsure: I've only seen the bit of the clip you've shown, and I was told what I said. If I have passed on duff info, I apologise, I will use more salt next time my informant talks! But, was the "whole information thing" what you intended to tell, or "heres a video of an LPG car going bang, they're all dangerous", therefore putting accross only one view. I totally agree with competent installers, but what do we do about caravans, gas barbecues etc...? Having worked at a main dealer I've seen a plastic diesel tank that was full of petrol. The job was to drain the petrol and replace the tank, flush through the system and charge a high fee. Rather than drain the tank, removal while full was attempted. Over 10 gallons of petrol were spilt in a workshop where grinders & welders are being used! The tank could not hold its' load without the strutural support of the vehicle it was mounted in. There was also the case of a wheel falling off a truck within 100m of pulling away from a service. The wheel bounced accross a busy forecourt and damaged 3 cars. A mechanic fitted a new engine, only when adding ancilliaries did he realise this engine had 5 cylinders, the vehicle need 4 :D These three cases highlight what can happen even when the fitters are highly trained and certificated. They can still be muppets. A contractor at work has an LPG install that is less than a year old. While I'm sure it complies to the letter of LPGA and COP ll regulations, even fron 20ft away, I can see fundemental installation problems that I would question on the grounds of safety. I've done some work on my car - replaced the mixer, no different to changing an air filter on a carb, and I've also replaced the filler, working on the high pressure side. It does not leak, it has been check by an LPGA installer, it's at least as good a job as any installer would do, but I haven't got any certificates, so I'm in the wrong? I normally think life's too short for arguing, but this time, the nerve fought back. At least both sides have now been seen. I won't change your mind, you won't change mine. Life's too short, especially if you drive on LPG :D

Phew :D Thought that might get a bit touchy there. Freddie was great, but Paul brings a much harder, rockier edge. They are now more of a rock band than pop band. Waiting in the crowd at the first QPR gig, none of us new what to expect, but PR won us over. I went to see PR solo last year, most of the crowd I'd also seen at QPR gigs! Some people can stay at home and listen to 20 year old albums, I go to gigs to get as close to the real thing as possible. And I'm still going to drive my safe LPG car :D

Depends which side of the fence you sit on the Q + PR debate. I just get sick of certain members of the Queen fan world ramming there opinions down throats. Waiting to know your side before I say anymore :D

A well known video that is also well known for the way it was rigged. There was no multivalve on the tank, and no shutdown solenoids. It was set up to give a very biased view that all conversions should be carried out by certain approved installers. From what I understand, the LPG Association thought it should be involved in cars, after all, they were now being powered by gas, just like the other things the LPGA dealt with. As a way of muscleing in on the market, they started lobbying various bodies, including insurance companies, to make sure that they got the gig. Part of this campaign was the video you've found. While it worked from an LPGA point of view, it did a great disservice to the whole idea of LPG powered cars. The video bears no relation to the vast majority of LPG powered vehicles on the road. I reckon there are more "fuel dangerous" petrol cars on the road than LPG. You will obviously state there are more petrol cars than LPG, but even as a percentage of total cars, the number of poorly maintained petrol systems is massive. Am I the only one who remembers the time before injection when teenagers modded the SU carbs on their Mini, or fitted webers to the Mk2 Escort? Some so called "LPGA Approved" installations are below standard, but still a lot safer than that video portrayed. Insurance companies insist that our systems are inspected yearly, does the MOT "REALLY" check a petrol fuel system? Just a bunch of rubber pipes with no safety shut off system. Take a hammer or blowlamp to the average thin metal (or plastic) petrol tank, then do the same to a gas tank, if you're still allive after the first test :D Various people have told me I drive a bomb, they've heard of bad stories, when challenged the stories become urban myths, some people will never be converted, perhaps I've just wasted my keyboard? Rant over - don't even get me started on Queen & Paul Rodgers without Freddie :D

CV Joint. Check both joints for splits in the gaiter. I once had a CV knocking while camping in France. Bought a can of spray grease (it had a pic of a cv joint on it!) and some cable ties from the supermarket, pulled back the gaiter, filled it with grease and cable tied the gaiter back on. Sold the car 2 years later without hearing it knock once! If repacking doesn't work, it'll have to be replaced.

It is a piece of cake :lol: The accessory wires behind the sockets in the boot will take the power, so they have. The audio leads and remote power lead have been run under the trim, even though I wasn't going to do that particular job today, it just happened! A 15A fuse and switch are mounted inside the trim just behind the aux heater, removing the louvre just inside the tailgate gives easy access. The amp is mounted on a sheet of wood, with a connector box giving my PA connections. The 250w PA horn is sat behine the middle seats, strapped down to the seat mounting points with kevlar cord. Testing the system out, I feel like a boy racer, except I'm twice the age and refuse to select music just to show off the system. Free's I'll Be Creepin' shakes the ribcage, as does Bring Me To Life by Evanescence. When I need the PA system, the horn can be removed and put on a long lead, a mixer pwered from an invertor will replace the head unit and MP3 players, Mics and Guitars will come out to play. Only one problem - the PA horn is carpeted green to match the living room, the car is Blue :(

Mine had thatfault and we traced it to the door lock motor. Running the motor with the cover off, I could see it almost getting there, then coming back again. Got a motor from the scrappy for a tenner. A lot of Mondeo motors are the same, get an old one with a lock and swap the locks.

Thanks guys chris, I won't be able to do what you did, no turbo, just lots of gas gear. I was thinking about following the rear washer pipe. OR... (and this is my favourite) The accessory sockets in the back can't take the current, or at least, the 12v plugs are only rated to 3A. but the circuit is fused to 20A. The amp should only draw 13A. So a tapping into the accessory circuit, with a switch and 15A fuse might work. Another thought is a permanent live on the towbar wiring. Not sure if there is one, but I might get the meter out on Saturday. Bear in mind this amp is not destined for permanent use, just a PA cab dropped out of the back with a Mic / MP3 player. If there is any chance of 240v being anywhere nearby, the big pa amp will come out to play anyway.

I'm in the position of being forced to fit a power amplifier (Sony XM SD12X) in the boot of the Sharan (Mk1), not that I want a sub, but I need a 12v PA system. Of course, I might just leave one of the pa horns in the back for some fun :angry2: Question is: Where would be the easiest route to get the power lead from the battery through the bulkhead? Regarding remote power on to the amp, is it just a switch 12v+ from the head unit, like an aerial motor supply? Anyone know of a power connector that will take the current? Then I can remove the amp when not needed. Paul

IIRC it's 7mm. An odd size common on Ford calipers. I guess VW didn't supply the brakes. Most car shops will have one. Draper do them in a blister pack

There's a VW specialist in Stonehouse that's got a good reputation. Just behind the Texaco (was BP) station in the high street. In the same building as Stonehouse Autoparts.

Mike My engine is the VW ADY, from the Mk2 Golf. My car is normally loaded, it's amazing how heavy kites can be (well, 100's of 'em) on the motorway runs, and the pretty stars on my licence probably tell you something :lol: My single point injection is basically a pipe injecting gas into the air pipe upstream of the throttle body. Having had a blowback a few weeks ago, my vaporizer diaphragm is feeling a bit sorry for itself. I've had to richen up the mixture control to compensate. But this morning, I've fitted a proper mixer on the throttle body and the difference is amazing. The mixer puts the fueling closer to the throttle, speeding up response time, and it atomises the mix by injecting in a ring around the air charge. Bernoulli would be proud of it. A quick test drive has shown such an improvement in driveability that I will lean off the mixture and reconnect the Lambda mixture control this afternoon. Then I'll be heading for the 30's. Your modern system will be a closed loop multipoint injection with full mapping. I would expect it to lose very little on consumption and outright power, but maybe even improve driveability. My tank is in the spare wheel well. It's a Stakko 45 litrwe and a bit too small. I rarely carry a spare as my tyres are moused, but when I'm heading for an important appointment, like a ferry or a plane, the spare replace the O/S rear seat and is held down with a cargo net larksheaded to the seat mountings in the floor. It also gives a handy little space in the well of the wheel. The filler is on the O/S rear bumper and the change over switch / tank guage is at the bottom of the dashboard above the ashtray. Getting the whole ashtray out to access the VAGCOM port is a bit fiddly, but do-able. Having lurked around on the LPG websites for a couple of years, I personally would send any work in the direction of Steve at http://www.go-lpg.co.uk/. It will take a bit of time to recoup installation costs, but it's the only way I can afford to run my car. If I had to replace the car, I wouldn't hesitate to look for an already converted car, but if I had to pay for the conversion, I would probably compare overall cost to a TDi. Hope this helps Paul

I do about 24mpg on my Sharan on LPG doing motorway driving, cold crawl commuting during the week drops it down to 20mpg. Although that is a different engine to you ford boys. I've never run it long enough on petrol to check consumption. Mine is an old mixer system (better mixer will be fitted tomorrow morning) so starts on petrol. I've used about

WEP MAC Filtering SSID hidden All ports closed except certain ones that are needed Intrusion detection alerts Firewall + Anti Spyware + Anti Virus on all PC's I also know all my kids webmail passwords (but don't tell them). My mum only has dial up, but when I visit her, I put the WiFi SD card in my satnav and get full ADSL from her neighbour ;) I have a neighbour with WiFi and I warned him 3 years ago that I could use his connection, I still can now.