SilverBeast

So you did. How embarassing :wacko: Must be old age, and the fact that mine isn't heating up fully so I suspect my thermostat but am also trying to figure out if my Temp Sensor fault in VAG-COM is because of the Temp sensor (which I didn't change despite the photos, as it is a lot harder to get at than it looks from the photos) or the wiring. Another thread, in the FAQ's I believe, suggests removing the engine tray and working from below for this. Try again. From the TIS CD 1. Drain the cooling system. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the Thermostat housing retaining bolts, allowing the coolant to drain into a suitable container 4. Detach the Thermostat Housing from the retaining clip 6. Rotate the thermostat counterclockwise and remove the thermostat Replace the O ring seal when refitting

i think i had better have another look! perhaps it is hidden somehow. thanks for the reply, appreciated! It is well hidden, you can't see it from the front of the car without removing several components. I managed to reach it just by removing the tray above the engine, beneath the wiper assembly. Here is another picture of it on my 2005 MkII TDI 130. This is taken 'blind' until I got a good shot, from the bulkhead looking towards the front of the car with the Fuel Filter and tray under the wiper assembly removed. It is beneath the hose that goes straight into the back of the fitting fastened to the righthand side of the cylinder head and with the plug disconnected And here is how I worked on it The camera is attached to a laptop so I can see what I'm doing on the Webcam. The black thing behind the camera is a torch for illumination. Just above the camera is the run on pump.

Mirez wrote quite a comprehensive thread on these when he replaced his. It may prove useful when you fit it. Mirez's thread

...or just break the nylon gear wheel inside the mechanism as it did with mine!! :lol:

There is on my 05 MkII. I found the garage hadn't replaced it properly when my radiator was replaced. Luckily I was taking the arch liners out to clear all the debri from the drain holes so it wasn't loose for long.

....or to keep the middle row side seatbelts out of the way when all the seats are out in "van" mode!

Mine do something similar intermittenetly. When I hook it up to VAG-COM it shows one of the rear sensors is indicating that something is close - 25cm? (when I can see it isn't). VAG-COM shows the distance from each of the eight sensors. If I put something closer than 25cm it reads correctly. This sensor has a small chip out of one corner but I am not sure if it is the sensor or the wiring (it's a bit stretched as it has clearly been relocated when the towbar was fitted. It's not very often at the moment so I haven't done anything about it yet. I suggest you:- (i) Connect up to VAG-COM. This should tell you which sensor is faulty. You've already narrowed it down to one of the rear four. The free version (which I am using) will allow you to do this and leads are available from ebay for around

Here -->>> FAQ Link

If your rear seats fold down flat into the floor it's a Mk III. If you can remove them completely and they don't fold down flat it's a MkII. If it's a MkII diesel it will be a 1.9TDI (should be on the log book). I believe the MkIII's are 2.0 litre diesels.

Hi, If it's like mine it should go out the first time you press the brake pedal after turning the ignition on. I believe it means you have a blown brake light bulb (probably just the left/right not the high level). Could possibly be your brake light switch also I suppose. Get a friend to check or reverse up to a wall and look for the refelections.

I have a 2005 TDI 130 Ford Galaxy. My handbook lists two fuses for interior lights:- (i) Fuse 53 (red) is 10Amps and is listed as just for the interior lights. (ii) Fuse 55 (brown) is 5Amps and is listed as Alarm supplies, interior lights and multi-function modules. I assume you haven't got your handbook. You shouldn't put in a higher fuse value than was originally fitted as the wiring may overheat and damage the harness, and that can be very expensive. I had some dodgy fuses from ebay that took out the fusebox and harness to the rear of the car on my wifes Rover 214 when it failed to blow. Saying that the RAC mechanic didn't spot the melted fuse hanging out of the fusebox by the drivers knee, even though my wife told him there had been smoke in the compartment and kept swapping and blowing fuses under the bonnet instead. That cost me

I logged coolant temperature today while driving. It never goes much above 75C on VAG-COM, though the guage reads 90C. Can anyone tell me if this is normal? It doesn't seem right to me. The car runs fine and seems to accelerate normally. With the error code listed above, which also happened with a replacement sensor bought in error by another Forum member, I wonder if it is possible that the temperature sensor has been changed before I bought the car and the wrong one fitted. Does anyone with the same model (130BHP, ASZ engine - Mirez?) know what colour their coolant sensor is. Mine is blue and has two pins. Thanks, Richard

Got the bracket from Fords

3. The outside air temperature sensor that the Auxillary/Booster Heater uses is clipped to the wiper assembly and is fitted just in front of the pollen filter. See pictures below The second picture shows the temp sensor still clipped to the harness with the wiper assembly removed (as I was unseizing it!). You can unclip the sensor with the wiper assembly still fitted. You can then either :- (i)Disconnect the connector and short together the two contacts on the harness plug with a piece of wire (which is easiest) or (ii) Dip the sensor in some ice or ice cream This will fool the system innto thinking that the outside temperature is cold. Your engine coolant temperature needs to be below 75C also for the booster heater to fire up. If you look in the FAQ section the first link is for the Aux Heater and well worth reading (if you haven't already). If you have VAG-COM you can monitor the sensor readings.

There will probably be some gaps anyway as I believe all the models (including the Galaxy and Sharan) use the same fuse box, so where some options aren't fitted the fuse will be missing. Are you certain this is not the case? Does everything work? Some won't have wiring to one side of the fuses and the metal contact for the fuse may be missing, you can see this absence sometimes if you look closely. It would also be useful if you state what model and engine you have. This is easiest if you add to to your "signature" then you can't forget to add it.

In the FAQ here

C:\Program Files\VAG-COM\Logs I think that's the default. Alternatively open Windows Explorer (not Internet Explorer), Right Click on the C:\ drive and then "Search" for "DTC-01.txt" which I think is the log file it would have created.

You said it 'must be a manual', but that one is an automatic! If you have a laptop it would benefit you to get a lead (I got one of these ebay link) so you can use VAG-COM free version. If you are buying a diesel Galaxy/Sharan/Alhambra then it will be well worth it anyway. Best bet is to scour this Forum and get an idea for potential issues. I did (I bought mine from ebay last year), and most of my problems have been predicted from here - coulbn't predict the radiator would start leaking though :wacko: From my point of view make sure the air conditioning is working, I'm not sure mine was when I got it, now it definitely isn't :rolleyes: as this is a very common and has several different issues.

Hi R4ch, The parking sensor button doesn't stay in. It should just beep and light up when you push it and pop out again. It should also beep and light up when you select reverse. It turns itself off either when you press the switch again or get above 16mph. It sounds like it may not be getting any power, as I have a sensor on mine that is occasionally intermittent and that beeps continuously when it is faulty. Some one may have disconnected it if it had a faulty sensor and it became annoying. They mau have just pulled a fuse. Have a look in your handbook if you have it - mine is a 2005 diesel and mentions both fuses 2 and 5 (in the fusebox by the drivers right knee). They both affect more than just the parking sensors though so 5 (blue 15 amp) is more likely, though this would also affect the electric wing mirrors and reversing light (put it in reverse with the ignition on and the engine not running and see if the reversing lights come one). Someone more knowledgeable will be along who can help your further if this doesn't get you any further. If you can find someone with VAG-COM software they should be able to diagnose it for you. You can buy a lead yourself from ebay and use the free version on a laptop for around

I'll be doing my service next weekend. I've never changed a fuel filter on a diesel before. Is there anything in particular I need to do, other than swap it out? Do I need to go anything in particular when starting the car for the first time after changing it to prevent air locks etc? Thanks, Richard

Wrap your reservoir first

This sounds like the vibration I get at around 20mph when accelerating. It happens in 1st or 2nd (or is it 2nd or 3rd, I can't remember now!) and is therefore independant of engine speed. It feels as though it is coming from the passenger side. I will be interested to found out what it is, if you find out. Richard

Thanks to you all for your help. What would Shalaxy owners do without this site!

My service indicator was happily counting down 1500, 1400, 1300, 1200. 1100 SERVICE NOW! Does it always do this? I've only had it since September last year. It's done 95k (in total, not since September ;) ). 05, 2005 Galaxy 1.9TDI (130) Ghia (ASZ engine) 6-speed manual. I'm going to be changing oil, oil filter, air filter and fuel filter as a minimum. Anything else in particular I should look for/do/need? I already changed the pollen filter when I was replacing the run-on pump brushes and freeing the wiper mechanism. (i) Do I need any special tools - I've seen an oil filter tool on ebay -> tool is it required? (ii) Is it worth getting a service kit off ebay? Service Kit (iii) I've seen discussion of needing a particular oil, again any recommendations? (iv) My gearbox seems a bit "notchy" particularly 1st to 2nd when cold, is it worth changing the oil - if so again any recommendations for oil and do I need any special tools - again I've seen mention of a gearbox drain plug socket another ebay link! While I'm at it I'll also be looking at the driveshafts and suspension as I have a vibration that only happens around 20mph while accelerating and isn't dependent on gear (and hence engine speed). Anything in particular I should look for? I'll also have a look at the aircon (again). I've been told there is a leak in the thin pipe under the drivers headlight - the one at the back that's hardest to get at. It looks like this is one run containing both the fat and the thin pipe from under the headlight to the back of the engine bay, across the back of the engine may to a fitting joining onto the evaporator(condenser?) and also to the pipes that go to the rear passenger compartment (Dual air conditioning). It was refilled cooled for an hour or so and then the compressor stopped spinning. Took it back the next day and all the pressure was gone. Has anyone changed this pipe - it looks .....awkward! ....oh and does anyone know where I can get the plastic fuel filter holder from as mine has been broken and is currently held together with a tie-wrap! Sorry for the essay, thanks in advance for your help, Richard