big_kev

Assuming you have manual controls for your blower then it should still work on position 4 as this bypasses the resistor pack. The resistor pack ( and blower ) are behind the glove compartment and are easy to get to for checking.

Best way to check is to get in the back whilst someone is driving it to try and locate the source of the rattle.....obviously do this safely on a private road. You may be able to identify better which part of the tailgate is rattling.

Further information compliments of the boys at vw vortex http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1158315 This may explain things better.

It appears some of the information given from myself ( and others ) is incorrect and only applies to the older version of brake switches. Further information compliments of the boys at vw vortex http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1158315 This may explain things better. Apologies for any confusion.

The brake switch is on a self-adjusting plunger arrangement. Fit the switch.....push pedal as far down as possible ( helps if engine is running ). Whilst pedal is down pull the plunger as far out as possible then gently release pedal. The plunger will self adjust to the correct position. Failure to do this will result in the plunger being in too far and the system will think that the pedal is being pushed down and hence the brake lights will be permanently on. This explains your old brake switch problem.....it was probably just sticky. You need to check the part numbers on your new brake switches match the old one or at at least a compatible replacement.

They normally have the part number on them ?

The fact that your blower doesn't work on position 4 would point to the 25A fuse ( maybe No.39 can vary ) blown or the plug has fell of the back of the switch unit. This will also affect the aircon system as they are linked. Double check the fuse and connections.

Best to wait for daylight then !

115 HP and try here.... http://www.leisureshack.co.uk/Galaxy-2-0i-...5-96_12032.aspx or read this post .. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=19721

Dodgy ABS systems......wasn't this a recall....below http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosa/apps/recalls/s...025759B002CE298 The old MK1&2 Gals have the nice advantage of the ABS packing in on a regular basis and hence returning you to a safer braking system.....ie...press pedal...wheels stop. Seems to be quite a few issues regarding recent ABS malfunctions resulting in lack of brakes....Toyota seems to have had the worst of it but it seems to be quite common. Wonder how long it is before ABS is removed from vehicles.

The Smax and the Galaxy Mk3 are the same car ? Unless you are referring to the Smax and the MK1 & 2 galaxys... In which case yes the Smax is very nice...however the olg Gals have reliable brakes. Think Toyota....think ABS....Think Smax

Did you miss this thread, below. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=19637

Check your vacuum pipes......and cross your fingers.

Try using vagcom to speak to the engine controller ( Module 01 ). Hopefully the engine ECU has not been removed. Also can you confirm that it is a manual gearbox ?

I think we might need a photo or at least wire size, colour.

Is it on one of the injectors ?

17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation P1557 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent If your lucky its a dodgy vacuum pipe......if your not its the turbo itself....try clearing it first. 01596 - Motor for Outside/Recirculated Air Flap (V154) 35-00 - - Possibly....the Outside/Recirculated Air Flap........either faulty motor or connection...easy checked. 01135 - Interior Monitoring Sensors 35-10 - - - Intermittent The ultrasonic sensors for the Alarm system.......one of them is dodgy....try clearing it....may go away.

Check to see if its pumping fuel by disconnecting it at the heater. yes it would cause a flameout error .

I think when the history of the car is suspect ( ie you don't know what bits have been removed ). Then it would be easiest to use VagCom (or similar ) to diagnose the fault. You could be chasing your tail for a long time if there are multiple faults. Diagnostics would allow you to easily locate the faults.

Its either 60k or 40k depending upon who you listen to......I would always assume 60k myself. Either its about due for a change.

Sounds more like a faulty dosing pump.

Did you drive it to see if the ABS light cleared when you got above approx 20mph. The code may just be a historical one.....and as such can be cleared.

Remember to write it all down ....... Does your original vagcom lead work or do you need a different one ?

The manual aircon models have a resistor pack and the automatic aircon units have a control unit ( hedgehog) they are not interchangeable.

Never mind we won't hold it against you..... :) Welcome to the forum