Rallim

I manage to get mine to fit with the rear seats folded forward... it is very tight and a little strained but it works :blink:. I normally fit it at the weekend when the extra seats are not required. Gordon

I've just realised that I never did post back as to how I got on with this job. In the end the VW technician was correct, the wiring loom did not have the wires for the fog lamps, also borne out by the fact that there are no wires to the light switch for the fog lamps. So not to be beaten I did wire them manually. I struggled to find a way into the passenger compartment from the engine bay, I was unable to find the grommets that had been stipulated to be present in other posts so in the end I gained entry by following the bonnet release cable! :lol: Having checked the TIS wiring diagrams it was clear that the fog lamps are driven directly from the main light switch (no relays - worrying but when you look at the size of the switch it would seem to be OK!). So I now have working fog lamps... just need some fog.... Thanks to those that offered advice. :) Gordon

There may be a closer connection as per the Golf Mk4 but I've got the impression from others and off the TIS wiring diagrams it needs to be wired to the PCM. I may be wrong which is why I'm doing some investigative work before starting the job. :blink: I have the stalk, and a cable for a mk4 Golf. I bought the cable to mainly gain the stalk connector and will probably have to be extend it. It has female metal connections on the end which I am unsure are compatible with the PCM plugs, thus wanting to look at the PCM connectors, if not I will have to source some suitable ones. Gordon

I wanted to look at my PCM connectors in preparation for adding cruise control. I didn't have a lot of time so I removed the battery but the PCM connectors have a metal band over the top of them to hold it in place. On close examination I could see that it was screwed in at one side, from what I could see the screw had a torx security head (raised dimple in the middle) is this correct before I spend money on some torx security bits?? I gave up at this point and put the battery back in but I had originally wanted to look at the connections, are the contacts within the plug male or female, ie does the plug have pins in it or is it the PCM that has. TIA Gordon.

Like I said its what I've read elsewhere... See this thread On my tdi engine the sump has what looks like some form of sensor with two wire protuding out of it right at the base and it looks rather exposed and vulnerable, the tray would at least stop stones etc catching it or the wires... but heh maybe its me and my paranoia! :D It also stops crap getting into the engine bay, my previous car an Audi 80 also had a tray and the engine bay was very clean in comparison to previous cars that didnt have one. I do agree they are a pain when you want to do work on the engine, and that probably one of the reasons they are fitted. Gordon.

I think it does a bit more than that... it protects the sump and stops water getting onto the auxillary belt - which can in turn lead to slipping belts and power steering loss... well that was what I was lead to understand elsewhere on the forums. :lol: Which is why I'm determined to get the garage who I bought my Sharan off to replace it when they 'lost' when it was in for repair... :o Gordon

Well I was totally wrong, its not just the ashperical bit the Galaxy's are completely different to the Shalhambra... doh! :) Galaxy: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/g.millar/images/IMAGE_097.jpg Alhambra: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/g.millar/images/IMAGE_099.jpg <_<

Thanks for the replies. I had a look at a 2003 TDI Ghia Galaxy in the car park at work today and noted that it did not have the 'ashperical' section on the outside of the drivers door mirror. I think this is what adds the extra

I had a try tonight. As soon as you plug into the front A/V socket the screen automatically switches over to it. The 3.5mm plug is of the stereo headphone type, with the tip being the audio, first band video and 3rd ground. I just used my camcorder a/v connector using the yellow (video) and white (left audio) phono connectors. So to connect the playstation should be straightforward. Hope this helps. Gordon :blink:

I don't know if it is applicable to your 99 Gal, but on my 2001 Sharan I had a similar problem, gassed up, A/C light came on but the compressor would not engage. The problem was the outside air temperature sensor had gone duff (used to prevent the system turning on if its too cold). There are two, one for the displayed outside air temp and the other for the air con, located near the fog light aperature in the bumper. I am unsure which sensor is which, I think the sensor on the offside is the air-con air temperature sensor. Gordon.

This what I intend to do with mine. There is an AV input on the front of each screen, so I intend to plug the Playstation into one screen (I would think it is a muti0band 3.5mm jack plug similar to those used on Camcorders.) Therefore one screen will still be able to watch the DVD whilst the other is on the playstation. I haven't tried it yet, but if I get a chance I will try tonight. Gordon

My drivers side wing mirror's heating element is broken, and so I've been on the lookout for replacement glass, but I am not to keen on paying the

Check your pollen filter.... When I first bought my Sharan the air flow was rubbish, a lot of noise with very little 'action'. Putting it onto 'recycle' caused the air flow to improve. I set about to remove and check the pollen filter after reading the wondeful guide on pollen filter removal elsewhere on this site. Lo and behold, once I removed the pollen filter the air flow was a lot better (filter looked old and was covered in rubbish, it didn't look like it had been changed for at least 2 / 3 years...). It was beyond me how the car had passed its 'we do a 'zillion' point checks before the car is sold' by the garage as the airconditioning did not work at all either... :( Gordon.

I believe it is the one on the left, whilst stading in front of the car (nearest the air filter), this has the larger diameter hose. I tired to measure mine with the pencil guage mentioned earlier in this thread but it wouldn't measure anything confirming the need for some form of inbetween pipe is needed to use the guage.... :)

When I eventually managed to remove the splined shaft it was indeed corroded - at the bottom, there are 2 brass sleeves inserted at either end of the cast but rubbish had built up between them inside the cast. I cleaned it up and packed it full of grease. My only reservation would be squirtting WD40 may tend to wash away the grease inside, what do you think? Gordon

Yep sorry, your right, I meant 'aftermarket' instead of OEM. :) Gordon

That's exactly what mine did, 1 day before the MOT. :D I managed to get them going again doing exaxtly the same as you squirting the shaft with WD40, knowing as others have posted it could do with being dismantled and greased. They worked for about a week and then started to slow up again, so I knew the job needing done properly. Feeling pleased with myself at getting the mechanism out I then snapped the cast whilst trying to remove the shaft. The moral of the story, make sure the cast is well supported as you 'work' the shaft out. In the end I put it back together with one wiper (luckily the drivers side) while I figured out what to do to replace it. In the end I managed to free the shaft from the broken cast and grease it all. I then metal glued and stapped it together again. Its held up for the last 2 weeks, in fact the wipers seem positively 'frisky' compared to before, but I'm reserving judgement to how long they'll hold together... captain. :) Gordon

When I bought my Sharan 1 year ago I started to hear the dreaded 'clunks' after 1 week of ownership. Arnold Clark (who I bought the car off) replaced them, they lasted for 6 months (about 5000miles!) before the noise returned. I got VW to replace them this time when they replaced the turbo (all at Arnold Clarks expense :D ). I had similar life span from the set I bought from GSF for my Audi 80, I returned them as it considered the life span unacceptable, however, it may be par for the course if you use OEM... which is what I guess Arnold Clark used when they first replaced them but I could be wrong :) Gordon.

Yes that is an obdII plug, looks exactly like mine! I only recommended that particular ebayer as I have bought two cables from him and they have worked and been delivered from Canada in just over a week, but I initially searched ebay for a generic cable... just chose him because of price. I also considered building one from a kit as I found someone that would supply the bits - but in the end I decided it was easier just to buy a pre-made one. I cant say about your version of VAG-COM but the cable I've got works with version 311.2-N with no problems. I would guess if your software license is contained within the software and does not require a the ross-tech cable to authenticate it, it should work.. what does the software docs say? Gordon.

Sorry I posted just after _dg but had not read his post. From his response you may need to some further investigation before buying the cable... :unsure: Gordon

I believe it should be OK, but please if anyone else knows different then say so. I have connected mine to my Sharan TDI, to a VW Golf TDI and a Polo 1.4CL with no problems and as yours is a VR6 engine I would have thought it would talk. The 'free' version of the software does have limitations on the monitoring functions and entering codes but it does let you read and reset fault data and monitor measurement values. The only other thing to is I do not think this cable will work with the newest versions of VAG-COM. Gordon

A basic 'isolated' serial cable can be bought on ebay here It is from Canada but I've bought 2 cables both of which arrived in about 7 days. The latest version of VAG-COM requires more intelligent cables which also act as a of protection / licence dongle. Anyway the cable works with the free to download version of VAG-COM. Gordon

TIS is the Ford 'Technical Information System' as sort of 'How to guide' including wiring diagrams and other procedures. The screen shot is of a parts catalogue, it may be EKTA but its different to my copy. Both are very useful. As you point out there is no part number listed for any ball joints, just the linkage arms. :o Gordon

A quick look at EKTA only shows the only individual replacable items are the linkage arms, I doubt they would come with the ball joints though... B) Scrappie? I feel for you if you have to replace the whole assemble, is it not in the region of