dave_m

I seem to have same issue, I have only just fitted a thermostat as ford dealer left it out last time i had the car worked on by them. before with no thermostat the rad would warm up ok but the car would not heat up much past 60' as water was constantly being cooled by the rad. now the thermostat has been fitted car heats up to a constant 90' regardless of speed and outside temp but rad does not seem to warm up. I need to find out what temp the thermostat should open at to see whether there is a problem or not or whether this behaviour is normal. Keep us posted if you find out anything else

Before the thermostat was fitted if i was stationary the temp would reach about 70 then as soon as i started moving would go back down to the bottom of the scale, even with aux heater running the same would happen, Fraud will be geting a phone call on monday to let them know about this, I cant believe it really that their technicians can be so incompetent i know mistakes do happen but it seems everytime they have my car something like this happens. the only thing now is the radiator does not seem to get hot even when the temp gauge is at around 85-90 is this normal as i forgot to test the thermostat before i fitted it. Although surely if it did not work correctly the temp would rise significantly above 90 when the car is stationary.

Hello, its me again I have since discovered another reason my car does not heat up, see aux heater post My car had work done by frauds six months ago( new cyl head due to water pump failure) They have not refitted the thermstat so i have been six months without one. I have fitted one today but just want to make sure everything is ok as the car is definately heating up quicker now and doesn't go cold when i am moving. Heres my questions 1. what temp (on the gauge) should the thermostat allow hot water through the radiator. 2. My gauge now reads a steady 85-90' after it has warmed up is this about right many thanks,

BTW, does anyone have images of the said Recirculation pump and a location of it on the car, TIS does not show exactly where but states Vehicle underbody. I may try and get hold of said pump, I can see just prior to the aux heater the metal coolant pipes have a gap of about 4" with a rubber hose bridging the gap. Could this be where the recirc pump goes on models with it fitted. If anyone has the setup with the pump i would be grateful of some images.

I want to use a resistor in place of the bulb, what sort of value and power rating resistor should I use,

its no good i am lost I cannot work out the wiring diagrams, basically C312 is the connector that is not connected to anything if anyone can provide any expertise I think on TIS in the Aux Heater Wiring Diagrams ithe wiring on the car is that of 412-02B-00-004, Auxiliary Heating, Booster heater, Diesel, as of 11/2001 And the Heater Unit has the wiring for 412-02B-00-005, Auxiliary Heating, Independent Heating, as of 11/2001 Wonder how much a new control module(with single multiplug) for the aux heater is?

will find out model number tomorrow I have put it all back together now as i have to go to work thanks for all your advice it is a great help regards, dave

Thanks everyone for the help on this, i am beginning to think that the car has the wrong heater unit fitted.

Also when the bulb is connected Heater Runs when Ignition is on regardless of whether or not the engine is running so it won'tbe pumping water through it. My thoughts are that someone has changed the aux heater for one from a Gal with Auxilliary Heating, mine only has the Booster Heater which only runs when the engine is on! Obviously I dont want it running when the engine is not on as it surely will just overheat and cut out. Can anyone shed anymore light on this situation??

Right another update, Had the car in bits, Bridged the temp Sensor on wiper blade to ensure heater would fire Still same fault reported 01415 Recirculation pump 36-00 open circuit Followed coolant pipes from front of car to aux heater and no recirc pump could be found anywhere. removed aux heater and checked and wd-40'd connector. I noticed that in addition to the 8 pin main connector there is a two pin connector coming from the aux heater which is not plugged on to the car. Purple wire and Brown Wire. i shorted this out and fault code now displayed is 01415 Recirculation pump 35-00 Short To Ground So next i got a 12v headlight bulb and connected to the two pin connector and fault code was cleared. Started engine and lo and behold the heater fired and is running fine. (Headlight Bulb Shines Brightly) this leads me to my next question, what is that connector supposed to be connected to??? from TIS it seems to be C312?? Does anyone else have the wayward connector on their heater?? and if you do can you tell me what it is connected to.

sorry to keep replying to my own posts but i really cannot work out whats going on with this heater. If as mentioned earlier a recirculating pump is only fitted to cars with the timer and independant heating. why does VAG Com throw up an open circuit fault for this as mine does not have the timer. I have the rear heating switch on the dash between the A/C and the Recirculated Air Button under the heater controls. It also has the Fan Speed Control and the Temp Control in the headlining in the rear. Can anyone confirm which type system I have and whether or not there is a recirculation Pump as this seems to be the fault which is preventing the heater from running. I have trawled through the TIS but am none the wiser. Help me someone before i freeze to death :ph34r:

According to TIS the Switch that operates the Booster Heater is N289 which is located by the Fog lamp on the Drivers Side. I hava a thermo switch attached to the wiper arm but cannot find this one on TIS is it definately the one on the wiper arm that controls the heater. by the way I forgot to mention in my first post that VAG COM operates the metering pump and the combustion blower OK on the output tests.

My heater does not appear to be working, the only fault code showing is the one above for the recirculation pump which the car doesn't have. Maybe its not cold enough yet but it did not work last winter. I have checked the glowplug in the heater and that is ok Anyone know what to try next is there any way to force the booster heater to fire up? Its getting colder now and the car never seems to heat up on its own :( step by step instructions anyone?

It does not have a timer, is this why it is showing an open circuit

I have checked the Aux heater module and am getting the following codes Tuesday, 08 November 2005, 17:22:25 VAG-COM Version: Release 504.1-D Control Module Part Number: 7M3 819 008 C Component and/or Version: HEIZG. B/D5W 0001 2 Faults Found: 01415 - Recirculating Pump (V55) 36-00 - Open Circuit Had a look on TIS but can't seem to find any info relating to the Recirculating Pump any help will be greatly appreciated. I have VAG COM and am in Bedfordshire area if anyone needs a hand :lol:

I tow a 15ft Caravan and only get a very small increase in fuel consumption mine is a 115 PS TDI

Car has been to Fraud's and they have said it is a high resistance in the injector wiring loom- quoted

I am having problems with my 1.9 tdi Galaxy misfiring, this usually happens between 2-3000 rpm whilst cruising along. then after if you let the engine idle it seems to be only firing on 3 cylinders, it is intermittent, and seems to happen more when the engine has reached its normal operating temperature, anyone have any ideas what could be causing this and where I should start looking

As the fault has occurred after a service i would check the vacuum pipes connected to the Turbo components as this is what happened to mine. One of the pipes got damaged by a mechanic when my cylinder head was changed. Ford could not find the vacuum leak and they had the car 4 days........... I found it after 5 minutes after advice from people on these forums :rolleyes:

The dealer I used in Milton Keynes is absolutely useless..... I put my Galaxy in with a fault causing loss of turbo boost. I explained to them that I had replaced the MAF sensor recently and this did not cure the problem. Left the car with them and received a call three hours later saying that they suspect MAF is at fault as the diagnostic code related to the MAF. They changed the MAF- fault still there and they said well it must be the wiring to the MAF. They rang the next day saying that wiring was fine they are now changing the boost control solenoid, which they did and the fault still was not cured. they then checked all the Boost Control Solenoid wiring as a short to ground was reported on their diagnostics along with a charge control negative deviation. Again no wiring fault they allegedly also checked all Vacuum Pipes and Turbo itself for any problems, overall they had the car 4 days and then said "it does have a problem but sorry we cannot find the fault" we can keep looking but you will be paying us hour by hour while we work on it" I said i could not afford that and had to pay them 150 quid for nothing(for the work they had carried out on it) which i was not happy about....... Got it home and had a think about the error codes.... MAF SENSOR CODE probably caused where I was playing with the MAF BCS Short to ground probably caused by them playing with/testing the wiring looms. BCS Negative Deviation- Loss of Vacuum to the Boost control solenoid. I checked the vacuum pipes going to the BCS and the first one i looked at was very loose fitting, i rectified this and the car is now fine.... I am now gonna demand my 150 quid back from them as i think they should have found this fault very quickly as I with littele tech knowledge found it in minutes they could not find it in four days..... They also have broken the battery cover, the undertray is only fixed on with two bolts and i know for a fact all six were there before they had it..... Useless bunch of thieves.....................

According to TIS The loudness of the acoustic indicator unit can be set to one of four levels and the parking aid re-adjusted for a towbar by using WDS in service.. You may be able to do this with VAG-COM.

I'm considering getting VAG-COM for my 51 Plate Galaxy, I'm not sure what cables etc i will need. Any help would be appreciated.

Hurrah, I have found what is causing the intermittent loss of boost on my galaxy. See photo's to make sense of my descriptions.... I followed the several vacuum pipes that are connected to various control aspects of the Turbo and one in particular goes into a Plastic Black ball shape on the front of the engine and is connected to this via what looked like a rubber bung.This is the Vacuum Reservoir according to my TIS disk. I think this pipe may head for the boost control Solenoid but i'm not 100% Upon further inspection this was found to be a very loose fit and seemed to be a funny shape like it had split/separated from the bottom of the hole it was connected into. In fact it could even be that the connection on this vacuum reservoir is broken and the rubber bung is someones attempted bodge at a repair as it does just look like a bigger bit of hose around the smaller piece. I tried driving the car with this completely disconnected and had no turbo boost at all so i tried putting a bit of insulation tape round the rubber plug to seal it in the hole with a much tighter airtight seal. Took it for a test drive and it had loads of power like it used to been about 60 miles and car is fine whereas before it use to be ignition on and off every few minutes to clear the problem. it may not be the same problem on all of your cars but certainly worth checking as Ford did not find it on my car, I may try and get back my money from them for the failed diagnostics as i feel they should have checked for and spotted a vacuum leak before they changed the solenoid/maf etc. See these photo's for a clearer picture of what was wrong. and thanks to everyone on here who has offered help and advice to me on this <_< <_< <_< http://www.icstele.com/galaxy/DSCF0387.JPG http://www.icstele.com/galaxy/DSCF0390.JPG http://www.icstele.com/galaxy/DSCF0391.JPG http://www.icstele.com/galaxy/DSCF0393.JPG http://www.icstele.com/galaxy/DSCF0394.JPG

Hurrah, I have found what is causing the intermittent loss of boost on my galaxy. See photo's to make sense of my descriptions.... I followed the several vacuum pipes that are connected to various control aspects of the Turbo and one in particular goes into a Plastic Black ball shape on the front of the engine and is connected to this via what looked like a rubber bung.This is the Vacuum Reservoir according to my TIS disk. I think this pipe may head for the boost control Solenoid but i'm not 100% Upon further inspection this was found to be a very loose fit and seemed to be a funny shape like it had split/separated from the bottom of the hole it was connected into. In fact it could even be that the connection on this vacuum reservoir is broken and the rubber bung is someones attempted bodge at a repair as it does just look like a bigger bit of hose around the smaller piece. I tried driving the car with this completely disconnected and had no turbo boost at all so i tried putting a bit of white insulation tape round the rubber plug to seal it in the hole with a much tighter airtight seal. Took it for a test drive and it had loads of power like it used to been about 60 miles and car is fine whereas before it use to be ignition on and off every few minutes to clear the problem. it may not be the same problem on all of your cars but certainly worth checking as Ford did not find it on my car, I may try and get back my money from them for the failed diagnostics as i feel they should have checked for and spotted a vacuum leak before they changed the solenoid/maf etc. See these photo's for a clearer picture of what was wrong. and thanks to everyone on here who has offered help and advice to me on this <_< <_< <_< http://www.icstele.com/galaxy/DSCF0387.JPG http://www.icstele.com/galaxy/DSCF0390.JPG http://www.icstele.com/galaxy/DSCF0391.JPG http://www.icstele.com/galaxy/DSCF0393.JPG http://www.icstele.com/galaxy/DSCF0394.JPG

I have had the Boost control Solenoid replaced and the wiring has been continuity checked by the dealer. They could not resolve the problem. any other idea's