chrispb123456

OK then. Normal loading up to 3 persons 41psi front 38psi rear Full loading with more than 3 persons 44psi front 47psi rear

What size tyres do you have?

The covers are only squares of carpet with a velcro strip at the rear end. They do tend to get trodden down into the well by rear passengers then when you try refitting they don't fit correctly and drop down on there own, poor design really, you may be able to pick up some secondhand from breakers or cut some plywood to fit instead.

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The heat is due to the high resistance between the cable and the crimped terminal, if it's caught early enough you can clean and solder the crimps (something that was omitted originally) this may be part or all of the problem.

Check the charging current at the alternator (large cable) also at the battery and battery fuse box you should be getting around 14.4 volts with engine running at fast idle and with lights etc on. Check for heat on the two large cable terminals in battery fuse box when engine has been running a few minutes.

Fords say 10.000 but less is better.

The flashing display means a fault has been logged so you need to read the codes, it is quite often due to low gas pressure but could be faulty wiring or pressure switch.

The picture is a view from the rear of the engine, note the exhaust manifold in the pic removal of the fuel filter and air charge pipe will give access.

Probably needs a new coolant temperature sensor (common fault)

I think I would be checking the wiring loom to the gearbox and multiplug also the TCM module which is on the inner wing panel to the right of the battery.

MK 2 haynes manual is number 5556

Is the car manual or auto as it could be fluid from transmission if an auto

Do you have a sun roof? maybe water on the roof lining

It's a fine line between starting without issue and not, one tooth out is all that is needed to cause problems very briefly there is an opening at the top of the bell housing after removing rubber bung (may already be missing) this lines up with a notch on the flywheel when at TDC, you will then need to remove the rocker cover there is a slot in the end of the cam where you can fit a suitable sized piece of angle iron thats a snug fit. The injection pump requires a locking pin to be fitted through the pump pulley after removal of the timing cover. The haynes manual covers this and more, dedicated locking tools are available but can be made up fairly easily. Would disregard any painted on timing marks until factory marks are confirmed, be aware there is no keyway on the camshaft sprocket it is a taper fit.

Think I would also be checking the timing? Smoking and smelly exhaust fumes may be timing related.

A different scenario but check the wiring through the rubber gaiter, you probably have some broken/chaffed wiring (common issue)

A different scenario but check the wiring through the rubber gaiter, you probably have some broken/chaffed wiring (common issue)

Not actually done one of these but am sure I see it mentioned on here before that it's behind the N/S headlight/indicator lamps.

The MFU is the whole unit next to the fuses, it contains relays that are soldered onto a board, I don't think these are available separately so you need to be sure The link below shows how to remove the MFU (level 1) http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?s=&showtopic=8810&view=findpost&p=68423

Look here. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?s=&showtopic=11428&view=findpost&p=95499

If your talking about the auxiliary drive belt tensioner bouncing about, this is usually caused by the alternator clutch pulley seized or the tensioner pulley worn or both. About 850 RPM is right when the engine has warmed up.

The glow plug warning light doubles as the engine management light.

For what reason do you need to adjust the tick over?