chrispb123456

It's a belt 125.000mls or ten years. You can check your own Ford service schedule at http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do

Are you mean a left handed screw :16: driver. Joking aside the universal windback tool fits all galaxy's and more.

They are universal and fit most cars

You can do it with an auto but you will need to use gear hold positions, to prevent upward gear changes. Don't do it if cam belt is near the end of life. Don't do it with a cold engine Make sure oil level is OK. So ideally you need some open road with a long uphill gradient and some extra weight in the car. Drive the car up through to third or forth depending on conditions hold at 3500 to 4000 RPM for as long as possible then allow revs to drop then repeat using the pedal to the metal. What your trying to achieve is get the turbo vanes really hot and burn off the oily soot which causes the vanes to stick

Helicoils can make a good repair, problem is there not a lot of room for mistakes the alloy castings are very fragile and you will be drilling very close to the edge of the casing so a pillar drill is essential and the need for accuracy drilling the centre of the broken screws/bolts.

I have a 61 reg with 225/50R 17 and increased the recommended front pressure to 40 psi as I could see them going the same way if left at 35 psi am now on 19.600mls and still have 2 to 3mm on the edges

I would say your problem is still the wiring in the gaiter, where you unplugged in the boot use a 12 volt 21 watt test lamp this will put a load on the wiring which a voltmeter doesn't, if the bulb light at this point you know the problem is at the gaiter or in the door.

0 100 226 228 was the original plug when the car was new and was carried on to the early mk2, this was then superseded by 0 100 226 340 but still available on ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBERSPACHER-GLOW-PLUG-for-D3WZ-D4WZ-D5WZ-HYDRONIC-WATER-HEATERS-FREEPOST-/181214092635?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item2a31339d5b this is now updated by the ceramic plug with wires attached to it and involves modification to the wiring inside the heater iirc this is the only one you can get from VW now for the D3WZ & D5WZ and it's quite expensive. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eberspacher-Glow-Pin-D4WSC-D5WSC-12volt-/280644230835?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item4157b31eb3 8 volts is usually marked on the plugs for these but advertised 12 volt hope that helps.

VW number is7D0963319 The beru number GH001. 0100 226 340

If you have no errors then it's likely the outside air temperature is not cold enough yet, needs to be below 10deg c. If you want to force it to start you need to bridge the terminals of the plug on the temperature switch clipped to the wiper linkage, you will need to remove the bulkhead tray to do this.

there is a black and yellow cable to the rear wiper motor.

Also check paddles on outer door handles, this can cause global opening of the windows.

Here's one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-FD232B-chip-compatible-with-VCDS-LITE-/330752513588?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4d0262d634

iirc the later heater D5Z-F has a different carrier bracket than the earlier D5WZ also the multi plug is slightly different, but changing like for like is no problem

You can thank yourself lucky yours is working OK, get your friend to compare warm up time, he's will take ages.

Do you regularly use the fob to lock/unlock the car or do you use the key in the lock? if you use the key then you may need to check the paddles on the outer front door handle/s

If the cooling system has excess pressure this could be the start of gasket failure. Try this, remove the rad cap when the engine is cold after it's had a run the night before. If there's a rush of air and bubbles then you have problems if not then probably just a leak. Don't forget to check the rear heater pipes and booster heater under the car, they are aluminium and can corrode and get pin holes in them.

One side light bulb each side on fronts, two bulbs each side on rears.

this means you have underboost, check the arm with the engine idling, it should have now moved to the full load position, (against the spring pressure fully down)

As Seatkid has said is the most likely, you can check the sensor aswell it's behind the O/S front fog light

You do NOT have to register to scan for fault codes but am guessing what your trying to do is use the auto scan function, this you cannot do without registering. So connect up, turn on ignition without starting engine, click on select then select engine, then click scan for codes once the button is highlighted. The lever that operates the vanes/nozzles can be worked with a short spanner see video below There is a strong spring inside the actuator that should return the arm to the top

Think I'm right in saying there is a member that has every option available for the Mk2 and his booster heater works aswell :rolleyes:

Do yourself a favour and get a Vagcom/VCDS lite cable from Ebay (under a £10) you will then get a fault code number with a description of the fault. The VNT (variable nozzle turbo) is inside the turbo housing. The actuator is what operates the VNT it is mounted on the outside of the turbo and is operated by vacuum supplied by the boost control solenoid valve (N75 valve) Overboost and underboost will both give limp mode

That's something we just set up on another popular Galaxy MPV forum. The admin team would have to set this up, unfortunately they are vary rarely present so will probably take an age to be looked into.

I would say inconclusive you need to do the log file with the engine pulling hard at around 3000rpm and hold. So ideally have some weight in the car and you need a long uphill gradient where you can accelerate 100% throttle (flat out) and hold it as long as possible