chrispb123456

Usually it's only the multiplug thats different I have a non Galaxy part on mine, just soldered the wires straight to the socket.

The timer/programmer is in the photo, the battery is not part of the kit and was only fitted when a car had the independent heating option when ordered from new. The problem will be if you don't run the car long enough to recharge the battery you could end up not being able to start the car, as you can imagine when using the heater without the engine running draws a substantial amount of current iirc about 25 amps as you will have the car blower, auxiliary water pump fuel pump and the Ebersp

It's best to change them spring hose clips for the jubilee type when refitting.

This is very similar to the one I have, mine came from Ebay quite a few years ago, that was over

To test it Quickly without completely putting it back, and assuming you have plugged the coolant pipes on the car Connect the fuel pipe and the multiplug then connect your garden hose to the inlet and just let the water run through it, bridge the air sensor on wiper link, don't worry about exhaust pipe/inlet Start the car, you should hear the combustion fan spin up first then will start to fire up.

As said pulling the lever twice enables the seat to lie flat.

I had the stalling issue with my MK3, which went in after nine months old as it was really annoying me know, it would catch you out a the most inopportune moment (roundabouts or junctions) but more so when I reverse on to my drive from the road which is quite steep. . They test drove it on the road which of course he didn't stall but on return to the garage I noticed a ramp going up to the roof level in there yard. I said to the chap see how you go reversing from a full lock up the ramp, well after three attempts he managed it albeit that clutch burning smell where he had give it welly to avoid the stall. Unfortunately he said we can't resolve it till Fords do an update to the ECU software. On it's first service (a year ago) again I mentioned the stalling and was told they will check it out. No fault codes present but did do some adjustment to the throttle control which did seem at the time like a marginal improvement but then seemed to return to the original state, so came to the conclusion it was just wishful thinking. I then noticed about September time on the Ford etis site http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do;jsessionid=D7E16551472C8BC2F7EF1713BB19B15C.dulv0679 that there was some software updates for my car. So as the car was coming up for it's two year service I would mention this, low and behold it's had it's service and the software update and now three weeks later it's all good and behaving normally. So anyone having similar issues check the site and see if you need an update. My model is a Nov 2011 2.0TDCI 163ps Galaxy Titanium six speed manual.

They are relays you can hear but are part of the board, it's not unheard of but rarely does the board go faulty. When testing for current at the window ideally use a 21 watt test lamp.

Inside the central fuse box. Have a look at this post it shows the indicator relays being repaired on the GEM/MFU board. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/topic/24047-howto-2003-ford-galaxy-indicator-relay-replacement/?do=findComment&comment=171442

As said the fault is usually in the tailgate gaiter, however relays for the rear screen heater and heated door mirrors is part of the GEM board and are not serviced separately. The feed to the screen is white and the earth is black.

Engine starting for a few seconds then cutting out is usually the chip missing from the key, you haven't dropped the keys or opened the key fob as it can drop out easily. Do you have a spare key you can try.

Lets wait and see for how long!!

You need to run new wires in and have the joints in the door and pillar not in the gaiter, it will just keep on breaking.

25 Amp You must have small hands to get in that gap. :rolleyes:

The button on the end of the wiper stalk cycles the options on the display

Get codes read next!!

It's clipped to the wiper linkage, behind the battery once you have removed the bulkhead tray.

The D5Z-F is prone to control unit failure, you can buy the controller separately but is still two thirds the price of a new complete heater.

Ambient air switch is 5 deg c on a MK1 so to test the heater you will need to bridge the two wires to fool the heater into starting unless of course it's really really cold where you are. The diesel supply will self bleed when operating.

If coolant and pressure came out when you removed cap with cold engine, firstly check at small return hose to bottle is returning coolant back to the bottle? as there is a restriction in that pipe that can get blocked. If it is returning coolant and air bubbles then you most likely have at head gasket failure.

Have you checked/probed the wires on the back of ignition switch.

Have you noticed the glow plug light flashing when this happens?

Here you are. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-COM-PORT-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-WORK-VCDS-LITE-409-/271036790042?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3f1b0d351a

Also check the smaller wires haven't broken off on battery terminals.