George106

When I checked sensors voltage there was in the 3rd field Status: ADP.OK and in 4th field Actuation motor: 80%. I have logged short period when I was on/off the car and G78 changed from 1.91V to 1.99V and G76 from 1.05V to 0.98V. It shows it is changing voltage according to the weight shift. I am curious why are my readings so much different to yours :) Headlight beam was set (manually as the levelling didn't work for some time) for the load which I carry all the time in the boot and during this adaptation I left everything in the boot as well. I may need to go to the garage to have beam set/checked with empty boot instead as I don't know what happened with the beam during adaptation be honest... George

Thanks Mark, I tried to set it again this evening and for some reason it was successful. Till yesterday I had two errors logged in vagcom: 01042 - Control module: not coded 55-00- Adaptation Not Successful 01539 - Headlights Not Adjusted 35-00- - Mine control box has not been coded (one of previous owners had some small collision on passenger side and replaced whole headlight but not coded @ dealers) and it was sorted yesterday however I still got: 01539 - Headlights Not Adjusted 35-00- - I have been told yesterday I need to set some dealer code (e.g 00123)in vagcom setup to enable "advanced" functions. When I checked values in measuring blocks>group 2> sender (G78) was around 1.95V and sender (G76) around 1.03V. Do you think any of these sensors is working on the edge of specification range? BTW I have lowered with G-max springs which claimed drop up to 50mm front/rear but in reality it is much less. George

Hi guys, sorry for resurrecting this thread but for benefit to other I want to discuss problem with Xenon headlamp auto-levelling after fitting shorter springs (lowering). Mine doesn't work atm. and as I have read on the other forums it may be caused by levelling sensors out of range do to lowering. Could anyone post values of front/rear sensor which they can be read in vagcom group 29...... I can't perform basic setting because of the front sensor being out of the range. Thanks guys George

Hi guys, bit bored atm as my gal is being serviced and have time to think about future mods. I am after fitting secondary battery under drivers seat but need to get parts first before I go further. I guess I would need to cut hole under the seat to fit battery box, do some wiring after that to get battery charged. Would be anyone so kind and help me to get some part numbers, battery spec. etc? Thank you in advance George

I have to agree, fitting modified plug wasn't bad idea as mine is still working after multiple testing my heater due to faulty ECU and IMHO old version plug would may not survived this abusing ;) . George

I dug out VW part number of revised glow plug (ceramic) which is 7M3 963 319A and cost me

Hi, I bought these ones and they are still working after 4 months of use. I had different ones before but they lasted just couple of days. Usually LED bulbs has very narrow beam and can't be seen unless you are looking straight into them. George

I think the noise is coming from the rear of the climate control module and changed when pressed, so I suspect something rotating is there. Everything is working fine, I had to change ECU on aux heater to sort problem with heater blower and since no problem if I don't mention multiple clicking when switching heater off through timer (ignition off) or when climate control was normally working - heating and switching ignition off. It sometimes clicks once and IMHO it would be caused by lower battery voltage (last time when my old battery was quite discharged / dying and could start engine up there was multi multi multiple clicking because of very low voltage). Now I have new battery which holds charge better but still if I run heater 2 x 30min a day and drive around 40 min a day, battery is not charged fully in this weather. I did not play with disconnecting climate control module as I have managed to delay cabin blower by 10min as mentioned earlier. George

Hi all, I have scanned Air con module today and found following error: 01273 - Fresh Air Blower (V2) 35-10- Intermittent I can also hear some noise like sticking fan behind climate control module which is quite loud if the blower is switched off. When blower is on the noise is less frequent but still present. Not sure if this is connected in any way with my recent cut/splice/solder job as I fitted programmable timer kit for running aux. heater independently. Could be this caused by failing control module or by anything else? (found some useful info on wiki ross website). Thanks George

There is one cheap on ebay, not sure about condition, from the picture looks like D5WZ version here George

Today I finally got my new battery, it's Exide 017 TE 100Ah CCA900 and fits perfectly in the tray, even the battery cover sits fine, looks appropriate to the space and hopefully would feed my heater well :( . George

It seems to me like another faulty control module.If the heater after clearing these codes is throwing them again, you are another owner looking for control module.

Hi, I am looking for new battery as well and I found two of them on ebay for reasonable price: Varta and Exide George

I bought gal without as well and got S/H one from ebay (contact someone who breaks gal) for 50quid delivered iirc. Make sure it's for the same car (similar age) and there shouldn't be any problem. Also you may need new bolts and nuts (rubber bits) with it which can be bought at stealers (bolts from stealers were to short). George

Just to add, when I was "playing" with my D5WZ, heater shut down when battery voltage was around 10.9V and there wasn't enough juice for engine to start :) . George

Would it explode? :)

Thanks Mark, I got replay form the seller regarding enabling 10 min delay and it's not so complicated :) (see picture). I also asked them about additional switch function in the kit which is described in word document. I will leave it with 10min delay at the moment and may fit switch later. George Function of the additional switch.doc

Thanks Mark, I was after disabling blower via switch only for the time I want e.g. first 10-15 minutes off and then just flick switch and start blower to heat interior. What is going to happen if the wire to climate control (pin 20) is switchable? (I won't be able to switch blower off switching thin wire from 86 relay contact, will I?) Wouldn't it also have influence on running the pump or heater itself? I tried to monitor heater function via VCDS when ignition is off and surprisingly you can connect to heater ecu when heater is set on via timer module. And I can confirm, my heater blower problem was caused by socket in ecu and after ecu replacement heater WORKS :) . George

Bump Mireeeez

I have been looking at contacts on relay and there are 5 contacts: 30 - is connected to red/white cable (blower side) which originally went from fuse 22 to blower 87a - is connected to red/white cable (fuse side) which originally went from fuse 22 to blower 87 - new wire directly from the battery (fitted fuse 30A) 85 - control wire - ground? 86 - control wire - +12V from timer module? Currently there are also present couple of thin wires: 87 - red wire - probably feeds whole system +12V (timer module etc.) 87a - blue wire - probably feeds pin 20 on red plug of climate control unit As I have mentioned before on the other forum they fitted another wire from relay (contact 30) to blue plug pin 18 c/c unit (they cut existing wire and connected new from the relay, the rest of the wire was isolated and left disconnected. When I was looking at wiring diagrams, this wire comes from fuse 22 which may not be fed when ignition is off? I have found some scheme which may be helpful to someone here. And another post here. George

Ooops again, I have just dismantled lower dash cover and checked how is the control unit wired and yes is connected through plug so could be sent back to seller if necessary. Also I took some pictures of the relay responsible for switching blower and additional fuse (5A) which protect something but don't know what. Mark, whole kit looks very similar to your if I compare pictures from your post and what I have and it may be software matter rather than hardware. What still puzzles me is the additional wire in blue plug. George

The problem is, it is hard wired so I would have to either cut all wires (and send it to Germany) or leave it as it is. On different forum they mentioned connection between the relay for blower and pin 18 on blue plug. They said, if they don't make this connection, then the blower would blow at full speed, which is not my case. However according to seller listening, they program control unit to enable this 10min delay otherwise it's on from the start as default. They didn't ask about this option despite of their listening. Would you think fitting switch for the wire which goes to pin20 on red plug would disable whole blowing part? I sent message to seller and would see what would they recommend. George

Update, I have read again ebay listening where I did buy my kit and found out that this kit turns blower on straight away unless I asked them to program ECU to swith on after 10 minutes..... se here transleted from German. When they asked me about my car, I actually didn't understand this part of their listening (was in German)and because of this my kit wasn't programmed with this delay. George

Just checked TIS and they state " The blower motor is switched on when the coolant temperature is above 30deg ". I have been looking at connector explanation in TIS for climate control modul but no luck. George