George106

You are right, 173g/km CO2 is band H and therefore 180quid 12months resp. 99quid 6months. Pay for whole year is always cheaper than twice for 6 months. At post office they were talking rubbish. It's quite funny parkers website is misleading as well.

Right got fed up with the noise, removed o/s headlamp and found airbox plastic tube loose on both ends. Pushed it back in rubber grommets and hopefully it' sorted. George

I use Millers Diesel Ecomax as well for more than one year and be honest when used, car is running better (less smoke, mpg about the same, smoother idle). I used to tank at Shell, but because of Tesco points have switched to Tesco diesel. However now points have been cut and decided to go back to shell even though I have to drive further to fill up. George

Hello everyone, My gal had cam belt + pump changed recently and from the change I do experience a bit rough idle for first 5 minutes (may be down faulty glow plugs) and also at low revs (2nd or 3rd gear) a bit of judder. I have read here timing could be checked at Engine measuring blocks, group 4, and the 4th box and value should according to VCDS between +3 to -3. Mine is currently "jumping" around -1.6 to -2.6 on idle warm engine. Some people say, it's better to set it to 0. Now I am wondering what value do you have on your MK2 AUY/ASZ engines? I can't have it changed in the garage which changed the cambelt (distance issue) and before I go to local garage to have it changed I want to be sure it would have any effect on my current issues. Thanks George

I read somewhere Bosch plugs glow better at higher temperature and if the price is around 9 quid I am happy. Just need to get the right one :blink:

Next time I have a time, I'll try to poke the hose and see if the noise changes. Mine appeared after couple of hours of driving @ low temperatures (-10deg)and never stopped since. I may also have to remove driver side headlamp and inspect hose in the wing. George

Hi everyone, I am trying to find out what can cause loud vibration noise (like plastic against metal) at revs around 1200 - 1600 in or out of gear. I would probably condemn plastic tube from headlight to airbox inlet which is hidden in the wing and may got loose. If I press on the wing from outside, noise change a bit as well as if I wiggle with airbox itself. Does anyone had/have this problem and how could be this solved? Thanks George

IMHO on MK1 is fitted 3KW heater which may not require aux pump because of the lower power output.

I was pointed to check glow plugs as I do experience first 4 minutes rough idle on cold engine. I have checked their resistance and they are far over the 1ohm (4.35 kohm; 405 kohm; over 2000 kohm and 1.4 kohm). I looked at ebay; europarts and found many options. I would probably go for Bosch one if compatible. At dealers they are made by Bosch or Beru as well but the price is over 25quid each. George

Update, I have found time to remove driver side lamp to investigate if the levelling motor is working(was just noisy but no movement). I removed back cover and run output test for left light and motor shaft didn't move at all - just clicking. As I bought spare light units from ebay recently. I swapped whole motor unit and surprisingly headlamp is levelling atm. Also found passenger side lamp is working fine during output tests however couple of times failed to move when the load change was minimal (I sat in the car or on the bonnet) and I could hear the same clicking noise as the faulty driver side motor. I may swap motor in this lamp as well in the future. George

Small update, when I had my gal serviced (cam belt changed), I have been shown inner half shaft and gearbox stub connection has some movement and no grease (may cause vibrations) which could be described as excessive if I consider these bits were changed in August 2009 approx. 23k miles ago. I have already ordered uprated non-genuine halfshaft assembly from polish motomax.eu for 225.50 quid delivered (thanks to Mirez who bought this shaft assembly first and negotiated some discount for this club members)and hopefully would be fitted soon. I'll post my findings later if this driveshaft sorts the problem out. George

Just small update, I have disconnected lead which feeds timer control module and also relay switching between ignition power for blower and non-ignition power lead and there are no clicking at all. In theory if I connect this lead to secondary battery it should keep constant voltage thus no clicking. I have checked battery voltage before and after switching engine off and it drops from 13.95V to 12.50V which may not be in my case relay friendly (relay has fitted diode between control contacts to avoid this situation but reality is different). Another small finding, despite of the new stronger battery (Exide 100Ah) voltage during start drops from 12.5V to 9.6V for a moment before rise to 13.50V :) .

Hi Chris, I still have multiple clicking when switching ignition off after engine running, which has to be down voltage drop and relay doesn't like it thus energising couple of times. Also even new battery 100Ah is not really solution for 2 or 3 cycles of heating in one day as I do not drive sufficient amount of miles everyday. I normally use pre-heater timer every morning and most evening before I drive home (I clean boats and can switch heating on before I pack all stuff). I have old 105Ah battery which may be useful but not sure if 30A split relay would be up to the job. If I fit battery in battery box behind passenger/driver seat, where would you ventilate battery? Not really fancy smelling acidic/lead vapours as already have to sniff some solvents. Also hydrogen is not very friendly gas at all. I have been looking at gel/ AGM batteries but the price for 40Ah :) George

Thanks for your point, I am becoming a bit tired about whole thing. Nor really impressed with the price vw wants for plastic box, neither with removing passenger seat and cutting hole through the floor. I would go the way of fitting battery box behind driver/passenger seat as the space is free atm. and box would be pretty well wedged between the seat and my working stuff (cradles). Still need to be sure currents which would flow through the wires and relay would be less than 30A otherwise I would need to upgrade whole thing for more money. To Mirez, have you any idea how thick/gauge were wires you used for battery connection? Also any relay specification or fuse size at least? George

Right guys, I spent another three hours reading forums regarding installing secondary/leisure battery and everything about charging and I am bit nervous. I have already ordered 30A split charge relay self- switching 30A split charge relay self-switching and I have some 4mm2 cable rated to 41A at home. Also ordered inline fuse holder for up to 30A blade fuses, some battery terminals and now I read 30A relay would not be able to withstand current from the alternator if battery is nearly flat(possibly cooked fuses or relay itself). If I use 60A car battery as secondary would it be really so bad? I don't think original wiring for secondary battery in shalaxys was rated for more than 30A anyway.

I have found VW part number for 2nd battery box which is 7M3 801 281. According to sgaf.de forum, battery suitable for the box is approx.: width: 24cm, depth 17cm, height 19cm, pole spacing (center middle): 18.5 cm. If I want to go this way, would I have to cut hole under passenger seat to fit the box? To Mirez: did to fit battery box as well when you fit timer module? Thanks George

I used their website when fitted timer module for aux heater to my galaxy.

Hi, I have actually same problems for one week, I have discussed this matter elsewhere but still haven't found solution. In my case engine is "lumpy" for first 5 minutes before the engine reach approx. 30deg. than it slowly disappears. When I checked MB013 in 001 Engine in VCDS my 1st and 3rd cylinder values jumps around 1.5 to 2.99mg/str which are not optimum. I have been advised to remove rocker cover and clean/tighten injector loom which in most cases cause idle problems on Tdi's. George

Hi guys, since last week I do experience some king of misfire when engine cold for first 5 minutes. I have looked ad MB013 in 001 engine measuring blocks and injector values were around 0.5 to 2.99 mg/str for 1st cylinder and 0.5 to 1.5mg/str for 3rd cylinder. 2nd and 4th cylinder are around 0.5mh/str log see here. How difficult is to tighten injector loom (any how to? ) George

Ford dealer should be able to "sell" new car pass which contains also key code. Then if you have this code, any mobile locksmith who does car keys would be able to make new key just from the code and also program immobilizer. George

To update, I have been in the garage and performed basic settings through VCDS without load and settings wasn't possible as the rear sensor voltage was to low (around 0.68V). However when the boot was full, sensor voltage rose to 1.07V. I have discussed this problem with Mirez and in comparison with his sensor position I found out my sensor was disturbed during fitting new springs and sensor arm was moved to the other direction (pointing towards the back of the car) hence I got such a low voltage values. I have undone low lever mount and moved sensor arm the other way and voltage values are around 2.89V when empty and 3.59V full. I have tried adaptation again and headlamp motors are buzzing. George

I have fitted already Exide 100Ah battery from which the heater is powered atm. However whenever I switch ignition off I do hear multiple clicking from blower relay fitted within the kit. This clicking is probably caused by voltage drop and I thought it could be avoided fitting auxiliary battery. George

Just to clarify, I have lowered more than you did but if I put some "extra" weight in the car, voltage arise a bit and never comes close to your values. I have set central(default) position with the load atm. and need to get in the garage to do it properly as my beams were adjusted manually before (when I remove everything from the boot, lights aim more to the ground)to get the car through MOT with full boot :). Also I have not checked the light alignment after I removed lights from the car for "black" mod. Should I remove everything from the boot(don't have seats fitted as I don't use them) before I perform accurate basic setting and have headlight beams set manually in the garage during adaptation? George