George106

Read Mirez's post here

I had the same problem for past 10 months and problem was in absolutely dry joint (connection between hald shaft assemly and gearbox stub) as Mirez quoted above and the "clunk" is generated by movement in this dry joint. If you put a bit of grease in the joint, horrible noise should disappear and also you will prolong life of the connection. If you experience some steering wheel vibrations when driving around 50-70mph they could be also caused by worn joint. George

Looking forward Mark George

Hi Mirez, what the situation about the cable rental for enabling miles left feature? Also have you managed to get more from the Vag Tacho? George

If you have MK1 gal, then you should have D3WZ version which can't be normally accessed through vagcom to find out whats wrong. If you have MK2, then you may have D5WZ version of heater which should be accessible through vagcom in module 18 Aux Heater. However if you have this version of heater and still can't access heater through vagcom, you may have some wiring damage near heater (bunch of wires sticking from passenger side sill underneath the car). If you manage to scan through vagcom, post your faults here and we would be able to help you out more. George

see here

Could be ultrasonic sensors in B pillar but vagcom scan will reveal more. Usually one of the sensors get faulty and triggers alarm. George

I had problems with some kind of misfire when engine cold and at the end my glow plugs were shot and after change it's running sweet. George

I have been diagnosed EGR leak and been told replacement would sort it but not necessary. Other way is blank egr and problem solved :35: . Anyway bit of whitish/brown stuff on the cap is normal in cold weather but if you get more of it, also on oil dipstick, it's indicating more troubles. I live near Texaco petrol pump in Bitterne. George

I guess there wasn't enough pressure between rocker cover and seal on the step bit. I tried to bend lugs but still leaked. Filler cap has own seal and works well. I may buy new one but not bothered atm. (my EGR leaks more than filler cap itself).

I had same problem when bought gal and to stop leaking I removed whole adaptor and put cap straight on rocker filler.

Flame out error can be caused by: 1. insufficient work of the blower - ignition process is not completed and flame out logged 2. faulty metering pump - no fuel, no flame 3. faulty glow plug or gauze Faulty run on pump is usually indicated by overheating and would be logged separately. I had problem with my blower fan and at the end it was faulty heater ECU (inner plug) but doesn't have to be in your case. Blower motors tends to corrode and seize - needs to be checked for free wheeling . You can run output tests to check blower and metering pump function from Vagcom (VCDS). George

My gal is back on the road :) and I have not paid fortune for all the work done. At the end I paid 160quid (labour only) for inner driveshaft change, glowplug change + removal of broken plug (has been done in situ with loads of swearing as I have been told) as well. Glad to be driving again and have to say, new driveshaft eliminated sloppiness of drive and even gear change is better (feels like more precise). Thanks everyone for support and enjoy evening George

Hi guys, yesterday I was in the garage and wanted to have glow plus changed as they don't work anymore. Unfortunately they managed to get only three of them out and the last one sheared off in the head. Now I am waiting for some chap who is dealing with this kind of problem (removal of plugs, injectors in situ) however he is busy atm and may be able to come some time next week. I am just thinking if you know anyone near Southampton who could help? I am not used to leave car in the garage and not really happy to be without car for next 3 days or so. George

If you drill holes in the bumper, put them in the good hight. I have fitted sensors in original holes and reversed in the truck without problem :huh: (especially after lowering the car). Also if sensors fitted to low, they would register ground (kerbs) more often than needed.

I have fed wire from o/s rear headlamp under sill covers and if you pull rubber seals, you may not need to undo seal covers at all. At the front, I fit display near side window vents and again if you pull rubber seals, there should be gap wide enough for the wire as well. Also would help, if you remove (slacken a bit) driver side kick panel (where bonnet lever is). George

Hi, today no heater at all. Tried through clock module or when engine running and nothing. Disconnected heater plug and measured if I get +12V on pin 1; 6; 7 and there is not power on pin 7 (engine running) in either situation. It seems to me, power is not fed through control module for independent heating thus no heater when engine running neither. I have contacted ebay seller and would see what could they say about it. George

Any cable like this should be fine.

Can't agree about timing, you can always check where the timing on PD engines is if you access in VCDS (Vag Com) 01 Engine > Measuring Blocks > Group 4 > 4th box shows how advanced is the timing (should be between +3 to -3). If is outside of these range, they have not done cambelt change right and would expect they will sort problem out. Regarding MAF, always go for genuine BOSCH part as the non-genuine are in most cases dodgy ones and at the end you will have to buy BOSCH one. George

I'll always do my best to come back with solution if found as everyone may benefit from it. Sometimes I feel I do ask but have to answer myself as well as nobody is really interested at the particular problem. Mirez and others thanks for your support as I could hardly solve any problem on my gal without it. George

Mine MAF is working fine (checked through VCDS), also EGR, however have a overboost problems when flooring at 3rd gear 3k revs. for longer than 5 sec. Otherwise no overboost when driving normally 2-2.5k but this is OT. I finally got new glow plugs (BOSCH GLP023) and would have them fitted in the same time as polish inner driveshaft assembly so hopefully cold engine "misfire" would ease off and I would leave timing problematic to someone else atm. George

See here.

You need to access module 029 - Left light, which is responsible for Xenon headlights. Scan this module a post your error codes. George

I have to agree OEM system is bit more advanced then aftermarket (speed activation, vag com scanning etc.) however if you consider how much would you pay for whole kit, it's not worth. I have ripped off old wiring at the back and used ebay kit which works a treat and even show you distance in metres.