George106

Hi, does anyone know the part number of the stub shaft brass thrust ring as mine is broken and need replacement. I did have a look at the parts diagram and it may be under 7B as Thrust washer 02N409378 or as more likely it could be 7C as tapered ring 02N409374? Thanks in advance George

Hi guys, finally I had a time to do a bit of cleaning in my local garage and I must say the manifold and the EGR was dirty. I also installed Provent 150 system to minimize the build up (I chose Provent 150 instead Provent 200 as the space in the engine bay is tight). I have done most of the cleaning myself and spent over two hours scraping the gunk with screwdriver out of the EGR and the manifold followed with carb cleaner. I took few pictures for the reference. In total I paid 350quid for dismantling whole inlet manifold, EGR, intercooler, all tubes from/to intercooler and the manifold, temperature sender change, oil change, one driveshaft boot change (all parts supplied). Also they helped me with fitting of the Provent 150 catch tank. This hose connection is temporary before I'l fir proper hoses. George

Hi, where could I get that ProVent catch tank, looked through the net and can't find any UK seller. Thanks George

I would say check for faults in Vagcom and act accordingly. If the ECU is not accessible then there is still some wire broken near the plug. Plenty info here on the forum.

Be honest, I would have to brake really hard to activate ABS, it usually comes on only when wet. I had/have problem with brake squeal (since discs/pads change 03/2010 Mintex) and last month had all pads cleaned and anti-squeal grease applied therefore pins are fine. Discs are without groves except minor one on the o/s/r, also pads seamed to be clean and worn evenly. When I changed pads, I didn't bleed brakes, just pushed piston slowly back when cap off. Also in the garage they checked all calliper (piston)seals for leaks. I have been offered Ferodo discs/pads by the garage I use for reasonably money, would I waste money choosing these and should I go for OEM ones? George

Hi, brake fluid (DOT5.1 Halfords) is approx. 2 years old, pedal is not spongy... Can I check anything myself or do I need to go to garage? George

Thanks guys, I have seen combination of Brembo vented/solid discs and EBC green stuff pads with good result. Is there anyone who would recommend this option? I looked at grooved discs but I do not fancy splashing more than 200quid for parts. George

Hi, didn't check but to explain, it brakes at certain level but doesn't improve with pressing pedal more (e.g.emergency braking). It went through MOT without advisory though. George

Thanks Mark, mine current setup is braking worse than old vauxhall astra I had before and is not very safe. I have changed brakes in March last year and expected better performance but it's actually less efficient. Is there any brand/setup which you would recommend without size upgrade ( some fitted brembo, ferodo or EBC).... George

Hi guys, I have quite sluggish brakes atm (Mintex discs & pads) and would like to get a bit more brake performance. I do not want to upgrade to bigger discs or change discs if possible. Would pads change make a difference? I was offered Ferodo pads also have seen EBC green stuff pads for affordable price. And finally would I have to let my insurance provider know that I have fitted EBC green stuff pads? George

I am about to fit 16mm2 cable which is really thick but is summer coming, I would play with auxiliary battery in autumn at earliest. I already used above mentioned grommet for running three bunches of wires (aux heater sensor switch, feed for programmable aux heater and separate feed for two cigarette sockets). Question is where would you ventilate this battery? Also where would you fit split relay and fuses? I bought heavy duty fuse holders, relay etc. from this ebay seller. George

Hi, I have the same problem, turbo vanes sticking but only when is engine cold. When is warmish not overboost is happening. In my case it may be down sticking VNT mechanism freeing with higher temperature. Currently I do not accelerate for longer than 6sec but let accelerator go (after 6th sec.) a bit and then press fully on to avoid overboost and is drivable atm. George

I had similar problem at low revs, check here George

If you search a bot more on this forum, you would find whole thread about the driveshaft from Poland. Mirez fitted his in August last year and I have fitted mine last month. They are sent as whole kit (gearbox stub + halfshaft assembly + grease and compression ring) for about 220quid delivered. George

If you have standard OEM springs, rear skirt should be high enough for sensors. But if you lowered or thinking about lowering in the future, I would consider placing them higher in plastic bumper to avoid registering ground as does mine atm.

Local locksmith who does car keys should be able to cut new blade and also program immo to accept old and new key (new chip from locksmith as well). If I were you I would get 3rd key (plain one) as well to avoid future problems (you always need two keys (with chip) to program 3rd key yourself).

Once the chip is paired with the car immo, can't be reprogrammed and you need new chip to be accepted by immo system. If you have just one key, you need to get chip programmed by local locksmith who would reprogram also car immo system to accept both chips (transponders).

You are right, front jet can defrost because of the engine but rear may take a bit longer.

In your case I would check if your remote key has transponder (chip) inside. To check you need to open key (separate blade part from remote control - use flat screwdriver to wedge between both bits) and look for small black rectangular piece of plastic (chip). If is missing, then this key won't start engine. George

I have cut ambient switch off and fitted manual switch on dashboard so I can switch heater on/off whenever I want (engine running). If you want to fit timer unit, it would be safer to user proper kit rather than cheap setup because you have to switch quite large currents (cabin heater). If you are after just heating coolant, ask member SOTAL who was considering this option. George

I have sent control box back to seller (in Germany) and hopefully he would come back to me soon what's wrong as the pin 7 on heater connector wasn't fed and heater stopped working. Be honest it's quite luxury to set heating in the car and jump in warm car when needed. My heater D5WZ is not probably very effective as it takes 30minutes of heating to reach 50 deg. coolant temperature when ambient temperature is around 0 deg. I expected faster heating but still better than sitting first 7 minutes in freezing car before blowers start blowing warmer air (also warm engine starts means less engine wear). Regarding the installation, it's not very complicated just a bit time consuming (took me over 7 hours). I experience multiple clicking from the relay which operates blowers from battery when engine is off and it's probably caused by voltage drop when switching off engine. Otherwise this heating is very handy and I used it every day past two months. If you think about this mod, I would recommend to source this kit from VW/Ford (ask Mirez for more details) as the aftermarket version from Germany controls cabin blower differently (set to 0 or 10 minutes after is heating switched on rather than genuine one which switches heater only when coolant temperature is over 30 deg.). I am about to fitting secondary battery behind passenger seat and fitting 100A charging system which would consist from split charge relay (30A) for trigging bigger relay, heavy duty 100A relay, two heavy duty 50A fuses, 16mm2 wire connected directly to car battery. If you need any more info, use forum or send me PM. George

I had problem with the connector from ECU and whenever I pushed on connector from side, blower started to spin. You can always try to apply 12V to the motor (not for to long as motor is 8.6V)to check if is working properly. If so, heater ECU would be faulty as was on mine. I tried to heat all pins in connector but no luck. PS: I have D5WZ heater version. George

As Mirez said aftermarket option is cheaper and may last longer as is made more sturdy. I have had fitted on mine gal two weeks ago and can't complain. George

Try looking for 'Engine mount bracket' May be they thought engine/gearbox bracket VW part number 7M3 399 201G .