roy202

yes he checked it all, cable, fluids etc, even seals on the other cylinder thing for leaks (sorry) that why he thought it was clutch slave but when he put it all back together, he said he spent ages bleeding it, and thought all would be clear, but still exactly the same you could have a leak on the slave inside the box either way the box has to come off if there are no leaks any outside the box,

take them off put them next to each other and if they look the same it will fit,

never accept the first offer, i would be careful if you say its got added extras eg alloy wheels, they may back out of the insuranace deal if it has extras they dont know about, if you get the auto trader or something and cut out the pages with expensive vehicles simular to your own, circle them and send them to the insurance company, you can then argue the point that your car was worth more than they are offering! good luck

ok thanks for reading anyway, just to let you know ive had a chat with a chap that repairs gearboxs and he says that these boxs run better with dexron 3 (atf) ive changed the fluid now and although it still crunches slightly its no where as bad as it was, so i guess it was the right move to make......

is the clutch ok i know it hasnt done many miles, but i have changed clutches with less miles, do you ride the clutch at all?

Similar to servicing Petrol cars - Oil and Filter change - only bugbear is you need to drop/remove the engine undertray to get to the sump plug. 6 bolts, you need an extension on your 10mm socket to get to the side ones (2 each side) and it a bit of a strech on your back to undo the rear 2. You dont actually have to slide the undertray out as it will drop on the ground and act as a convenient drip tray while you change the oil. Dont forget to put the cover back on, its needed to avoid safety issues (loss of power steering in the wet) Fuel filter is supposed to be changed every 2 years/20,000 miles - I have never bothered - unless you suspect you had poor or dirty fuel or water in the the fuel (theres a drain tap for that) I personally feel that fuel filters can easily go 50,000 miles+. Mines done 50000 without a problem. Air filter doddle to change or clean. Needed every 36,000 miles/3 years. The rest is usual - chack fluid levels coolant/brake/power steering. Check brake condition and wear etc etc. Glow plugs - only replace if you have trouble starting (due to a glow plug failure) - you can change just the faulty one(s) - they go open circuit. Very easy to do (easier than a spark plug. Reset service indicator if it annoys you using the procedure documented in the FAQ (hold trip button, turn on ignition and wait several seconds until service indicator clears) whilst you have the wheels up in the air check for play in wheel bearings all around, on the front check for play on track rod ends and track rods, anti roll bar links have no play, and have a look for corrosion on brake pipes, and dont forget to check wipers for splits, the lights work including fog and number plate lights......

i would fill the hole with a sealer and see what happens next, if it is a gromet hole there should be a gromet in it! expandable foam would only seal it so much, if you cant see any rust around it i expect it would be ok filled with sealer.

is it high milage or has it ever lived by the sea? these will rust the car...

only yellow oil i know of is air-con oil. but does sound strange if your air-con still works?!

Hi all, Ive got a prob with the gearbox, problem being when moving up the box from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd it crunches and grinds when cold, its not so bad when its hot but still does it slightly, the box has the right oil and the right level in it, it has a new clutch, dual mass and slave cylinder in it, i dont know if it did this before as i bought it with dead engine, does anybody have any ideas what this could be? going down through the gears is fine ? and do you think thinner gearbox oil might help the situation? appreciate any help...... SORRY POSTED THIS 3 TIMES DONT KNOW WHY, i know ive just deleted the others ;)

depending on the size of the rims 30-33psi on an audi a4, but i would have thought a bit more on a big thing like a sharan?

does the pedal go down to the floor? when you change pads there is no need to bleed the brakes you simply undo the top on the fluid resivoir and push the pistons in , put in the pads and pump the brake pedal until hard.

not really, anyway you can try a relay they just need resoldering if you look closely you will see the crack in the solder, quite a common prob ive done a few of them now! you can usually tell if it the relay im thinking of by banging the dash it will start again when it makes contact but will stop again. yeah sorry i was getting carried away and forgot yours was a diesel, this would only happen to a petrol and not a diesel as sepulchrave rightly says....

not really, anyway you can try a relay they just need resoldering if you look closely you will see the crack in the solder, quite a common prob ive done a few of them now! you can usually tell if it the relay im thinking of by banging the dash it will start again when it makes contact but will stop again.

personaly i wouldnt bother its not going to make a difference unless the intercooler is blocked, you have no engine problems, there is always dirty oil deposits in the intercooler system its nothing to worry about, its only time to worry when you can pour out a sticky sludge oily mess.

yes ANU is the engine code and it is a pd engine 90bhp i think the first pd engine was put in the 1999 tdi (6 speed)

Its a 90bhp engine so I take it its not a PD engine. Thanks for the info though :-) could still be a pd engine whats the engine code its found on top of the timing belt cover on a sticker?

do you have the chip inside of the key for the immobilazer? where did you get the 3rd key?

hi , if you open the back doors you should see the catch on the inside by the catch

no i dont think there is a subframe, i did a diesel one about a month ago on a galaxy i bought with a dead engine and there was no subframe on it, i put a new dual mass flywheel, clutch, slave, waterpump, cambelt kit and various other parts on it, it took about 12-13 hrs on my own, and it actually went in really nicely, i would take out the engine and box at the same time though as i do...... have fun

out the bottom always works well for me as long as you have got enough room to lift the car up when you drop the engine down!

if your finding anything other than oil in the sump chances are you need a new engine i wouldnt even mess about with it!!!!!!!