jaycee_w_uk

No need to reply - went out and started the car this morning and the glow plug light appeared! Temperature outside was the same as yesterday and it didn't appear. No idea why, all I know is it works and I'm happy.

Hi, I hope I'm asking this in the right forum. I've not long purchased a 2012 Galaxy 2.0l TDCI Zetec. I've just noticed that there appears to be no glow plug warning light, as I know one, on the dash display. There is a snowflake symbol which illuminates orange I believe at a temperature range of 0 to 4 degrees C, and then red at below freezing. I have seen the snowflake symbol light up, which to me would indicate that the temperature is definitely low enough to see a glow plug warning lamp. The car starts first time so there appears to be no issues. Do these cars have glow plug warning lamps on the dash display? If not how do you know if the glow plugs are ready/working as they should? Many thanks for any help offered.

Hi, I hope I'm asking this in the right forum. I've not long purchased a 2012 Galaxy 2.0l TDCI Zetec. I've just noticed that there appears to be no glow plug warning light, as I know one, on the dash display. There is a snowflake symbol which illuminates orange I believe at a temperature range of 0 to 4 degrees C, and then red at below freezing. I have seen the snowflake symbol light up, which to me would indicate that the temperature is definitely low enough to see a glow plug warning lamp. The car starts first time so there appears to be no issues. Do these cars have glow plug warning lamps on the dash display? If not how do you know if the glow plugs are ready/working as they should? Many thanks for any help offered.

Hi, Anyone know anything about serious inner edge tyre wear on a 09 plate 2.0l tdci fitted with Continental run flat tyres? The road contact area is fine and shows even wear all the way across but the inner top of the side wall area is worn through to the canvas! Looks very much like its been rubbing on something but there is no signs of rubbing on any of the suspension etc. Local dealer is closed and don

Thanks for your replies. I think I found your post Mike. I think its the one in the faqs that gregers was referring to. If so its very good if you are replacing the whole mechanism. I've just fitted the glass and I have to say it was very easy. Took me about twenty minutes and some of that was cleaning out the broken glass. Its held in by four Torx bolts (star shape) and thats it. To get to the bolts I found that you needed to unclip a black plastic runner. This runner is for the interior sliding sunroof cover and is identified by the black felt on the underside which the cover runs against. The runner unclips by just gently pushing it towards the rear of the car. You need to do this on both sides. I don't know if its possible to push this runner back far enough to lose it but just in case I only moved it back as far as I needed to to get to the four bolts. Once this is done undo the four bolts, lift out the old roof, lower the new roof in, do up the four bolts - job done!! Well nearly anyway - you will have to do some aligning etc to make sure its a good fit and moves freely, and of course clip the runner back in position. :~) When the weather is a bit better I'll try and put together some photographs and instructions. Cheers, Justin.

Hi, My sunroof got hit by a stone or something and shattered. I've obtained a replacement from a breakers and am hoping to tackle fitting it tomorrow. Anyone know if I can replace the glass unit without removing the headlining etc? Be grateful for any tips, advice, or instructions! :~) Its a 96' P' reg 1.9 td GLX. Many thanks, Justin

Was ARB links on mine. Tended to be more noisey at low speeds. Could be any of those you listed though.

Well sealing up the plastic trim body clips didn't stop the leak either. So thats the pollen filter, bulkhead drain, windscreen, sunroof drains, washer pipe, and now the plastic trim clips - what else can it be? Think I'm going to have to strip out the bulkhead and paint sealant everywhere in the hope I can seal it up. Just wish it was sonmething a bit more obvious so I knew I'd got it!

Hi, thanks for response. I have investigated around the pollen filter area and checked the filter housing as well but it still leaks. Now I've stripped everything out I can see that the air intake area is sound and there is no water entering the car from there. However since I posted earlier I found a post on this site that referred to the clips that secure the small plastic trims that go around the wiper arm spigots. I've removed these and two of them do have holes that go straight through into the body of the car!! As it suggested in the post I've now sealed these and will retest tommorrow. Fingers crossed!! To find the post do a search for 'Bulkhead water leak".

Hi, Yes I know. I'm really sorry to drag this one up again but my story goes like this. I purchased a 1996 TDI Galaxy on a P reg. I love it - its brilliant!! The only problem I have had so far that I can't fix is this water leak into the passenger side footwell. After checking through the various posts the common theme seems to be the bulkhead drains so I've cleaned them and now that all works perfectly. If I pour water over the windscreen it drains beautifully out of the bottom of the nearside wing. However even the slightest rain will cause a small trickle into the passenger footwell. I've stripped out the passenger side dash, carpet, trims etc and after a lot of fiddling about I can see where the water is getting into the car. About 5cm below the quarter light on the upper near side of the bulkhead, facing towards the passenger side of the car, (next to the LH side of the upper glove box) there is a large hole that looks no different to any of the other loom holes I can see; as in its a pressed hole into the panel. Here I can see the small trickle entering the car. No looms etc come through this hole. Now whilst doing all of this I can see that the previous owners have had the same problem. There is additional sealer down the passenger side of the windscreen. The bulkhead drain flaps have been removed. Bits of tape in odd places. Evidence of various trims having been removed before etc etc. In the hole where the water is entering there is what looks to me like expandable foam(?). This may well be standard but it could be that someone has added it to try and prevent the leak. My questions are these: How is the water getting into this point in the body? Should I just block the hole up with some silicone sealer to stop the water getting in? If I block the hole up am I just going to get a build up of water in the body that will eventually lead to corrosion? Has anyone come across this specific problem before and if so do they have step by step instructions on how to cure it? Any help/advice is gratefully appreciated! Justin

Hi, The problem turned out to be a combination of a worn OS inner trackrod joint and tyres. The tyres were the ones that were on the car when I bought it. They had plenty of tread and were balanced etc but I called in at a tyre dealer I know just on the off chance, he took one look and noticed I had the wrong type of tyres. They were not reinforced. Now I know there is some debate about reinforced tyres but I had them changed anyway in the hope that a)it would cure the problem and b)for peace of mind. This seemed to cure the vibration I felt when accelerating or braking so perhaps it was a tyre out of shape after all(?). The track rod joint was responsible for the severity of the vibration under braking which was much more like the vibration felt when discs are warped. I'm still not entirely convinced about the tyres even though the evidence point to them being the culprits. Still its been running fine now for over two weeks with no re-occurrence. Its a very different car to drive!! Thanks again to those that replied to this post.

Hi, Thanks to those that replied to this topic. Looks like it may well be the CV joints at fault. I've decided against tackling it myself so its off to a garage. Will post back with the outcome.

Hi, hope someone can help with this! I've got a TDI Galaxy (90 BHP) on P plate. When I'm accelerating I can feel a vibration through the steering wheel between 50 and 70mph approx. If I brake at those speeds I get a severe vibration again through the steering wheel. Cruising at the same speeds is fine with no vibration. I've swapped the wheels front to rear, balanced the tyres, fitted new front discs and pads, and changed the track rod ball joint ends, but the vibration is still there - any thoughts on what else to check? Its recently gone through an MOT no problem.....