nicebutdim

There is usually a code on the key or within it's packaging. A new key can be ordered from this code.

Ok, that's great. I'll just unplug it then. (I honestly didn't know it acted like an extra pulley when off). Many thanks, Tim

Mine done this just before the linkage completely seized. It seizes on the spindles as water gets into the bearing there. You'll have to get the linkage out and try to disassemble the spindles and grease them up. It is on here somewhere with how to do it. But be careful! I broke the actual linkage itself when trying to free it up and had to get a whole new mechanism.

Hi everyone. Is it possible to remove the air con compressor and install a shorter aux belt to the Galaxies? Mine is a 2000 Mk1 Tdi. The aircon hasn't worked for ages now, and to be honest even if it did I wouldn't use it with today's fuel prices. Many thanks, Tim

You have fish in your brake lines? WHat you got a Galaxy or a U Boat!!;) :lol: :lol: :lol: Galaxy engineering always has been a bit fishy :lol:

Better way (and easier) of dealing with the brake fluid is to clamp the hose with a brake pipe clamp (not an expensive tool) and open the bleed nipple to drain the excess fluid as the piston is pushed back. It prevents any carp being forced back up the line too. (Sorry it's a bit late for your fix Bioman).

I haven't had the warning light come on so the code doesn't always cause that. Galaxies and Alhumbras have a vac hose from the inlet to the ecu and a small section within the ecu, but this wouldn't cause a ROM fault. I had my ecu out to replace the vacuum lines and funnily enough for a short while after the stalling stopped. It could be the connector block needs cleaning for the loom into the ecu. Regarding the remapping, would Demon Tweeks or similar be able to remap the original software/settings? I feel it's like there is a missing section of information on the ecu's software. What gets me is that there is no set of circumstances that bring on the stalling of hesitation, and I can't make it do it either! ;)

I'm very interested in this as my Gal has had this fault for about 2 years now. Same code that keeps reappearing after being cleared and brief engine cut outs, sometimes at idle resulting in stall and sometimes when driving where the revs will recover. Occasionally it won't happen for weeks and then it does it 2 or 3 times in a day. How would we go about geting the ecu remapped? As far as I know mine hasn't been chipped, it was owned by a vicar before me but I have a feeling that even he couldn't exorcise some of the demons living in it! :)

Don't forget the turbo can boost up to (and over) 15 psi, can you blow 15 psi? It's bit of a pig to get that ecu out, but stick with it and it'll free up eventually!

Could you let us know as soon as you do please? I've used Halfords oil in mine for the last couple of changes as I thought it was up to spec. Many thanks, Tim

It could be the water temp sensor. There is 2 of them in the top hose, one supplies the gauge while the other does the fan and the ecu. My fan was on all the time, when I plugged in vagcom the ecu sensor was showing a constant 140 degrees, even when the engine was cold.

More than likely arb bushes. I've just changed EVERYTHING on my front suspension except these (I couldn't afford them at the time) and I'm still getting the same noise that you're describing above. Mine seems to do it more in colder weather.

Open up the bonnet, you'll see the long black plastic panel above the engine. In the middle is a bolt (10mm head) that faces towards you. There is a bolt at each end (10mm too) that almost faces the wiper arm spindles. Carefully pull the wiring loom from the plastic panel on the passenger side, the loom goes into the bonnet itself. Pull the panel towards the front of the car, and then you'll need to manipulate it over the header tank by pulling towards the drivers side of the car. You should be able to see the mechanism of the wipers. On one of the arms there should a clipped on sensor. After you have finished testing be careful with how you put the panel back, with the cable on the passenger side and with the plate location. There is a locating lug on the rear of the panel, ensure it clips into it's clip on the bulkhead before bolting the panel back in. To be honest with you, I really don't think it was cold enough this morning to trigger. It really does have to be brass monkies and although it's been quite cold, it hasn't been really cold (yet) lol. P.s. are you having trouble posting replies?

What year is your Gal? I have a mk1, which the cover is removed by 3 bolts, one in the middle and one each end and then carefully pulled out towards the drivers side. Have a look through some of the threads here if yours is different. You need to just make access to the linkage for the wipers, you 'should' see the sensor clipped to the linkage.

On the wiper linkage, under the scuttle plate, is the temp sender. carefully remove the plug and bridge the contacts in the plug. 4c is nowhere near low enough to trigger the aux heater, it really needs to be in the minus numbers. Another test is to put a bag of frozen peas on the sensor, leave for a few mins and then try.

How cold was the outside temperature? It may not have been quite cold enough for it to have triggered the sensor. Try the paper clip in the sensor lead to see if it comes on then.

I see what you mean. I'll have a look at a mk2 near here and get back to you with what I see. I really do feel for you, I know how difficult and frustrating it is when it seems impossible to stop the water coming in. On mine the water had got into the wiring loom on the passenger side and rotted the solder joints, causing the central locking to pack up. I was well happy when I found it, as the car had been with Ford for nearly a week while their technicians tried to find why the central locking wasn't working. Even they gave up, but they didn't find the gallons of water soaked into the sound mat under the carpet either. I only found this after the gear selector cable had broke (which turned out to be a blessing in disguise) as the front carpet had to be removed to replace them.

You are showing the exact same symptoms that I had with mine, took me 2 weeks to find my leak. You mentioned the plastic surrounds that clip under the windscreen wiper spindles, did you actually check the clips that go into the body? There is 2 (or 3) clips that sit in the body that the surround then clips onto. Those clips DO NOT seal properly, and that hole leads straight into the cabin. I pumped a load of sealant into the hole, filling the cavity and making sure it was really in there, right in the corners until it squeezed out through the holes. I then sat the clip into the sealant in it's hole and allowed to dry. I wish I had taken pictures when doing mine, it'd make it so much more easier to describe, but I was so bloody excited to have found the leak that I just got on with it. If you haven't tried this I'll bet that this is where it is coming in. I read about it before but discounted it as I really didn't think the manufacturers would have been so stupid with the placement of the clips, they were! Almost all water running down the windscreen and from the roof gets directed over these clips, so even a light shower ends up with pints being directed straight in through those holes. You'll need to remove the wipers (mark their position on the shaft first) then prise the surround from the clips. You'll see the clips underneath. Pull out the clips and you'll see the cavity under them. This cavity leads into the cabin through some insulation (I took out the whole dash before finding this out). Get some sealant and fill that cavity, and I mean fill it (make sure it is all dry first). Push the clips into the holes with plenty of sealant around their base and allow it to set. Give it a test. I hope this sorts out the leak, as you are describing exactly the same as what I had.

I'll try to find the receipts a bit later and will list everything. I didn't do the rear trailing bushes which may be a cause of rear alignment being out.

With any engine I would not mix coolant types at all. There can be issues with the rust inhibiting properties being lost and a gel forming. For the cost of a bottle of anti-freeze and small amount of work involved with giving the system a flush through, is it worth taking the chance?

I meant to update this thread a few days ago. I went for Eibach springs in the end, 20mm drop. All I can say is they feel excellent. Managed to change the whole suspension (shocks, springs, arms and all ball joints) in 1 day! I was very happy as I had planned for it to be off the road for a couple of days. I do admit though that I bought everything need to make up the whole front strut units and built them up before hand, but even that was a 20 min job. Regarding the rusted nuts on the top mounts, I used a Bosch reciprocating metal saw and cut the rim off the upper cups. It took about 20 mins to do both sides and saved a whole load of hassle. In fact the hardest part to do (I found) was getting the rear springs to seat correctly on the rear arms, but a little force and some KY jelly soon sorted that, and realising that as soon as it is back on it's wheels the spring near enough seats itself. I bought new everything to do the job including subframe bolts and such, came in around

Mine sits 1/2 way up, sometimes just over, then the fan kicks in 'till just under 1/2 way.

Excellent, Many thanks Paul. Tim

Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I'm re-building my new struts and having a little 'fun' with the top mounts. Is the top mount actually bolted to the top of the strut, or does it just sit over the nut & bearing, only being held in place when in situ with the top plate and nut over the turret?

Hi everyone. I'm looking at replacing my suspension on the mk 1 tdi gal and would like to put some uprated springs in. I would like to keep some of the ride quality but stiffen it 'a little.' I've been looking at Apex springs kit, p/n 80-8000, which drops her by 25mm. Has anyone here put these in before? If so are they good? I don't want massive lowering and keeping some comfort. Sorry for all the questions, quite a big outlay for me. Many thanks in advance, Tim