nicebutdim

Thought of that, I have aircon but don't have climate control. It's the simple system where you push the fan switch to turn the aircon on, no other controls. It's only one fan coming on, the one nearest the airbox. Tim

Hi all, couple of weeks ago my water pump went, didn't leak, it just decided to make as much noise as possible. Anyway, replaced it and the thermostat while it was out. Now the problem has begun; after the engine has been running for about 3-4 mins the fan comes on, and doesn't really go off until about 1-2 mins after the engine is switched off. If the ignition is switched on again, the fan will restart and keep running until turned off again. I thought firstly that the water pump or thermostat may be faulty, so I changed the stat (again) and checked the pump, all seemed fine. Refilled, problem still there. I then had a think and realised that the water isn't overheating, the gauge slowly makes its way to about the o on norm, and doesn't go much higher. The rad is warm as is the lower hose, so the pump and stat must be working fine. I pulled the wires from the sensor on the upper hose, and the fan still keeps playing this game! I've read on here about the relays that control the fan sticking, but the fan is definately under some control as it switches on after a short while and switches off after the ignition off period. I've checked for signs of head or gasket failure, but seem ok, and as said the water is not overheating... She's a mk1 1.9 tdi, 2000 Please help!!!! Tim

Many thanks for the help, will attack it a bit later. Better get some warm clothes on.......

Hi, has anyone attempted to change their own timing belt on a tdi? I'm trying to find where to obtain the locking kit, as the haynes manual shows you only need a plate to lock the camshaft and a pin to lock the fuel pump pulley. All the vag locking kits I find have a vast array of pieces within them and cost over

Well, got vagcom working, then had washing machine pack up first thing this morning, beyond repair, so went to get another. While in car park bloody selector cable popped off ball on gearbox and left me with only 3rd, 4th and occasionally reverse. great fun pulling away from lights and nice smelly clutch! Can't believe I've now gotta replace all the cables because one small socket feels like it doesn't want to be married to a ball anymore! Will the repairs ever end? I know it's gonna be like painting the forth bridge, once everything is replaced it'll be time to start again! lol. Many thanks to you for your help, I'm sure I'll be back on here again soon looking for some more advice. Cheers to everyone for their help.

Right, I've got it working now (touch wood). done some google searches on different parts of the problems I was having, and the answers were always within ross-tech's faqs! Your right, vagcom does need to be run in compatibility mode for xp, but also the initial folder that the files are saved in also make a difference. Apparently most people have had success by doing the following: First connect the cable but don't let vista search for the drivers, you'll need to look under connected hardware in control panel and find the lead on the list and load the drivers from where you know they work. Mine were on the software disc that came with the lead, and were specific to it for vista. Secondly load the vagcom software, don't let it install under program files, place it under C:\Ross-Tech\VAG-COM\. Then, when you have a icon to right click on for the program, change to run in compatibility mode for xp (sp2) and ensure run as administrator is ticked. You'll need to change the port settings for the cable to a free one between 1 and 4 under the advanced port settings and then test that when you run vag-com. I hope this gives a brief outline to anyone who has any trouble with vagcom on vista and hope it can help, but don't forget it may not work for all. Now vag-com has found a fault with the ROM memory on the ecu, I sigh with no surprise and prepare to watch my wallet shrink yet again for this car! Thanks to you all for your help, it really is much appreciated.

Lead and software came today! loaded all drivers and software onto my laptop, diagnosed car and it is the brake light switch! Also came up with an internal fault with the ecu, something about a rom fault, meant to get the code but the software stopped working and that was the only time I've now been able to interrogate it! Every time I try to get into the fault reading page on vagcom the program stops responding, AAARRRGGGGHHHHHHH! I've heard that it doesn't work too well with vista, and I've tried running it in compatibility mode for xp, but it still won't work and now I can't even remove the program to try reinstalling it. Anyway, regarding the brake light switch: I've studied the haynes manual wiring diagrams, and found out checking the brake lights won't always tell the full story, the switch has two switches within it, 1 tells the rear stop lights to come on, the other is attached to the ecu and tells it when the brakes are applied so it can adjust fueling and the such as required! It's this second switch which causes so many of our headaches. And just to make things more fun, apparently some models are fitted with one to the clutch pedal too. If anyone has had any probs running vagcom on vista and has resolved it, please let me know........! Thanks to everyone who's helped so far, this site is invaluable.

Hi Harvey, I'm just after fault diagnosing, it's the coil light flashing, so engine or electrical related. I'm lucky enough to have quite a base model galaxy, I say lucky as I have less to go wrong! lol. I've heard it could be the brake pedal switch, but as I'm now learning it's worth having some form of diagnostic unit as I know as soon as I've rectified this problem something else will decide it wants some attention! Many Thanks, Tim

Hi, I've had a look through as many posts as I can to find an answer to this, but can't find alot for it. Basically my fault light is flashing, so I've obtained a laptop and ordered a usb to obd lead from ebay. The problem I'm having is which software version do I download from rosstech? I know it's the version 409.1 (I think) but there is three different downloads under this. Sorry if the answer is really obvious, I'm not great at anything pc related! Has anyone downloaded any of the versions, and if so, which one works? I have a galaxy mk1, late 2000 tdi, and the lead is just usb to the obd connector. Many thanks for your help.

Many thanks to both of you, I'm gonna take the route of using vag com. Had a look at the ross tech web, which program do I download? Sorry that sounds thick but I've grown up with cars (all fords) that I've been able to strip and rebuild without even touching a pc. Actually all I've really had to use is a 10 mm spanner and some meccano, lol. Has anyone used a lead from ebay? just so I know which is the best one to go for. Once again, thanks for your help. Now to have a look at the brake light switch........

Hi, sorry if i've missed a previous answer to this question, i've looked but can't find anything specific to it. I have a ford gal 1.9tdi, mk1 2000, one of the last before the mk2 came out. The other day the engine preheat light started flashing for about 10 mins on the way home then went off. I assume this is the engine diagnostic light aswell on tdis. What I want to ask is what diagnostic tool is suitible for these engines? will the normal obdII code reader work ok? I've seen one from sealey (model no. vs8700) for the same price as a fraud dealer diagnostic session and would like to pick all your brains before I commit to buying. Thanks

By the way, the locking and window control unit is intergrated with the fuse box when you imediatly open the fuse cover, it's the whole unit with the leads going into it. They rarely fail but when they do its

Hi, just an idea, check the live feed to the doors from the control box, mine had dodgy soldered joint behind the dash, took me two days of fruitless searching and eventually two days of searching by a ford technician to find it. He just soldered a new supply wire in and solved the problem.

Hi, I had a very similar problem on my galaxy, the locking system started acting up and then two days later it packed up altogether, the red light didn't flash anymore and basically the whole locking system died. I spent two days searching for the fault, testing and checking wires, and everything was working fine when stripped, but when together it didn't want to know. Turns out there was a problem with the live feed to the door switches, looking at the diagram it's a red and white wire. After the fuse box it routes up and under the dash, across to the passenger side and then there is a soldered joint, where the wire splits to supply the doors. On my car this joint had partially failed, enough to bugger up the system but not enough to show when testing with a multimeter. I was quite happy that my testing wasn't in question, it took a ford technician 2 days to find it! He soldered in a new live feed to the drivers door for me from the fuse box (no. 19) and it works as it should now from that door, just need to connect new feeds myself asap. Please check this on your car before putting in for a diagnostic, it could save a couple of hundred quid. Even the technician couldn't find the joint, he said it may involve removing the dash or carpet on passenger side, which would have cost mega bucks. Hope this is of help.