nicebutdim

Hi all. Does anyone have a diagram and/or list of the parts that make up the front struts? MK1 TDI, 2000. I'm renewing the whole front suspension and would like to just swap the front struts, i.e. make up whole new assemblies, take an angle grinder to the old ones instead of p****ing about trying to undo the top mount and then just bolt the new one in place. I just need to know what all the parts are to the assembly, shock, spring, lower mounting bolt, top bearing etc. Fingers crossed and many thanks, Tim

Jay have you a pic of where you fitted the gauge ?? please Mark I have fitted a gauge to mine now, works great! Mark, I fitted mine with a pod from ebay that has a sticky pad fixing to attach it to the dash. I've placed mine in visual line with the 'A' pillar, adjacent to the small quarter glass. The pipe runs out of the back of the pod and through the gap between the a pillar and the small dash trim, and through to the vac pipe that runs to the ecu behind the clocks. VERY easy to do and no holes or damage to anything. I get nearly 20 psi very briefly under full acceleration and a constant max of about 10 after.

It is a high tensile bolt, and the threaded rod you have put in will not last long. The proper bolt isn't alot from ford and for the work involved and the worry of it breaking again taking out the air con pipe at the front with it is much more worth getting.

Thanks Andy, will give mine a go now I know how that loom comes off! You're a star, thanks again!

Being completely honest, I found removing the whole dash a lot easier than trying to get at the ecu through piddily little holes. You only need a replacement bolt for the steering wheel. I wish I had dealt with my ecu when I last had my dash out, and I am very tempted to do it again to get at the bloody thing. For the life of me I cannot get the wiring loom to release from the ecu itself!

I had this same problem too. I was able to release the unit from it's clamp but was unable to remove the wiring harness. Does anyone know how to do this?

Thanks Jay, I still keep meaning to order one but one thing or another keeps making sure we have no spare money. whereabouts did you plumb in to take the pressure pipe? Thanks, Tim

Tried it, did nothing at all. Pull pipe off after maf and spray in while someone holds revs. All that happened was the spray built up in boost pipes and took ages to clear, producing (alot) of blue smoke. Get some fuel system cleaner instead, works alot better.

That'd be great Zorgman, thanks. I believe I'm the same specs, so should have a good relation in readings. Thanks again

Ok, thanks for the reply. Looks like I may be the first to take a step into the unknown then? I'll update when I have some spare time and get round to it. Thanks again, Tim

Hmmmm, that's interesting as the gauge I'm looking at has a max of 2 bar shown. Do you think it would also show the correct reading if plumbed into the boost pipe that leads to the ecu?

Hi all. Has anyone fitted a turbo boost gauge to their galaxy? I'm talking about one in a pod and permanantly plumbed in. I'm thinking of fitting one just to keep an eye on boost pressure along with an oil pressure gauge that I've had knocking about for years. Will it work ok on a diesel charge system and is there enough boost to actually make the gauge move (as the only gauges I've seen are really meant for petrol engines). Thanks for any advice, Tim Edit; I mean using a turbo boost gauge for keeping an eye on the boost, not an oil pressure gauge :unsure:

Bet it's your temp sensor. It's the one nearest the cylinder head where the coolant pipe exits the engine. Mine went a while ago, the coil light went out straight away and started to become a pig to start, so I plugged in Vagcom and the coolant was being shown at 125 degrees, even though the engine was cold. Really easy to change too.

Sounds like the heater is working perfectly normal to me! :blink:

Also check the covers that go over the windscreen wiper spindles. They have square plastic clips that go into the body next to the windscreen, the water comes in through these too. I pulled out the clips, then filled the cavity underneath with half a tube of silicone sealant until it nearly came out of the hole, and pushed the plastic clip into it. 5 minute job after 2 weeks of searching!

Hi all, just a little advice please. When was the dmf fitted the the gals? I have a x/2000 tdi, which in the last 6 months has broken 2 roll restrictor bolts. I'm led to believe this can be a side effect of the dmf on it's way out, or the clutch. I'm not sure if I have a dmf fitted though! Many thanks, Tim

I had knocking on the front end too, thought it may have been the drop links. When I got under there I found them to be fine, but one of the track rod end ball joint was so loose you could move the wheel by about 1/2 inch each way! The worn one came off within 10 mins, but the drivers one was a different ball game altogether. Eventually I ended up taking out the steering rack so that I could get the steering arm in the vice and use a 6ft tube on a cut down spanner to force the track rod off. What a pig of a job!

Have you checked under the carpet for water? I had a similar problem on my x reg, where the control unit is under the dash. Turned out that the water had got into the wiring loom and corroded every solder joint it came near, took a few hours of splicing new wires in. The water was coming in through the clips that hold the covers in place by the windscreen wipers on the nearside.

hi Tim,This sunday just gone,i fitted some edge ed206 speakers to my mk2 galaxy they are a bit tight depth wise,when fitted in the back doors but do fit perfectly as i used the same fixing screws that held in the originals.As i didn't fit any covers so you can see the orange colour of the ed206's through the grill on the door panels ,i put some black insulation tape over the fixing screw heads. To avoid possible vibration in the back i put a piece of non slip matting between the magnet and window runner,all works fine sounds alot better than originals.My head unit pumps 50 watts per channel and gets plenty loud enough without going above 30 on the dial.I would go for as higher power watts on the speakers as you can afford if you like it loud and would recommend having new clips for door cards to make sure of a tight fit when putting them back, as the amount of base you get from new speakers really vibrates the door panels and doors.If you go for more powerful speakers make sure the depth is no bigger than the ed206's.Hope this helps you decide on which ones you choose. kev I think that makes my mind up then! I have been looking at all the other options given to me here but find myself strangly brought back to Edge's offerings over and over again. Quite funny how a day after I posted this thread one of the kids decided to put his knee through one of the rear speaker covers! Only a few quid for a new set from evilbay though. I see you can get the door card clips alot cheaper on there too. Will make a start when funds become avaliable again, wife's Astra just decided that it didn't like it's engine anymore so that's taken priority over my listening needs for the time being! ;)

Hi all. I know this has been covered before, but after looking through all the posts I still can't make my mind up!! I'm looking at replacing the speakers in my mk1 gal. 16.5cm and 17cm speakers have been mentioned, but which is a direct fit replacement for the paper crap that's in there? I've upgraded the head unit a while ago, and have now been looking at sony's offerings in the 17cm range, but someone mentioned edge's ed206. If anyone has tried them are they any good? were they a direct fit? Any help would be great. Many thanks, Tim

A good start to diagnosing problems is to get a haynes manual, the ford galaxy one is same as sharan, and get a vagcom cable from ebay, they're cheap and allow you to check tons of stuff within the engine and electrics. Just for the engineers to drive it in through the doors of the garage will cost more than both the above items!

For the mk1 the Haynes manual shows you would need to change the pulley on the water pump to ribbed from the standard v shaped belt, get a shorter v belt from crank to steering pump and shorter ribbed belt that would then run water pump and alternater. Nice and easy, eh?

Get a Haynes manual. It gives a step by step run of it, I've had a look in mine and it's bit of a job, as it's located above the front subframe. The Galaxys are great for the easiest jobs being made hard!!

Looks like I sorted it. Plugged in vagcom yesterday and the temp sender said the water was at 108.5c, even though it was stone cold! Replaced today and fan acting normal now. Just a coincidence that the sender went at the same time I did the water pump and thermostat!

Do all Galaxys have this pump? Mines a mk1 2000 tdi. I've never heard a humming before though.