Masked Marauder

lol, just read this....

Put a long bar on the socket, brace against the chassis/ground and click the starter motor over.

I am starting to think the waterpump bearing has collapsed and siezing the belt, which is slipping on the crank pully causing the smoking and lack of PAS. Was the alternator (battery) light illuminated?

When I looked on the wiring diagram for <2000.75 it showed only two for TDi engines. And I went to have a look at the one on my car, but I don't even know where it is!

Surely it wouldn't control the fuel pump, engine management yes but fuel pump? If it had control over the fuel pump the engine wouldn't be able to idle if you kept your foot on the brake? Are you back in the motherland now? jetlagged maybe? :huh: Regards - JB The fuel pump metering device is controlled electrically by the ECU. The fuel cut off is disabled and fueling returns to idle flow rates if you press the clutch in.

Yep, good test is to put the handbrake on, rev the engine with the car in neutral to about 2000rpm then press the brake pedal. The revs should drop to about 100rpm.

If you could put in a lower amperage fuse then it would not cause the box to melt, the reverse would be true. It sounds like the box melted and the fuse blew and someone bodged in a lower amperage fuse rather than buy the part, or perhaps the part was not available and it was a "get-you-home" fix that worked so was left.

Independant heating is when the booster heater can be set to come on at a pre-defined time or whilst the vehicle is standing without the engine running. Most likely you will not have it. I have never found anyone who has!

White smoke is incomplete combustion. Pump and valve timing.

It is 150 amp if you do not have independant heating, 60 amp if you do.

The cut-off is in the pump.

I think it is not a PD, so no electric pump. I agree that if there is compression and there is fuel and the timing is right then it should run. So one of the three is missing. But we know with easy-start it will almost run. So my money is on the fuel or the pump timing, but I don't see how the pump timing could have gone out all on it's own.

This sounds like an air leak after the MAF and before the inlet manifold to me. Check all your air piping for cracks and secure fitting.

Soak it with WD40 and leave it overnight. Or try tapping it with a copper mallet. I had a bastard of a job removing all 4 of mine when I overhaulled my head.

Just the glowplug light flashing chap.

That little fuse box melting is on the common problem list. Other users on here have changed it them self.

Nah chap, the LED on the driver's door......

Does the LED come on when you release the key?

When your cranking the engine the fuel will run. The minute you release the key to the running position the engine will cut out. I would be tempted to disconnect the exhaust from the cat back and see if it makes a difference. As for the nut, I presume it was past the turbo.....

With the immobiliser it will start, run for half a second then stop. This would allow it to run on easy-start as the imobiliser cuts the fuel. But the door LED is a dead give away. Timing is a possibility. As is a blocked exhaust or collapsed catalytic converter.

You don't need to clear any fault codes, fit the plug first and see.

I am really........ The Masked Marauder!

It is an intertia switch that shuts off the electric fuel pump in the event of an accident.

8v DOHC