buford_t_justice

My Gal has had warranty work carried by Ford in Year2 and it has only ever been serviced by an independent garage who were VAT Registered. Not a Ford stamp in sight !!

what else would I need to buy to make it complete or is everything here that I would require ??

I have recently acquired a hands free kit for my V600 phone. The kit is a Motorola HF650 and I'm looking for some tips on locating the correct wires. Finding an earth is okay but there are three other wires to hook up: (1) A green ignition sense wire to a source that will remain high when cranking but low when ignition is turned off. (2) A red positive primary wire to a point in the fuse box that is always 4-10 amp fuse. (3) An orange mute wire that may require an optional relay. Can all of these be found in the loom that supplies the radio?? My radio is the standard 5000 series supplied on a 2003 Ghia. Thanks.

I too had the hissing noise you described coming from the glove box area. Although I regassed the system it lost all its pressure within 24hrs. Went along to the dealers who found a leak on the condensor. Replaced and regassed. Condensor + Labour =

thanks for the info VR6Galaxy and for the entertainment SeatKid. :lol:

thank God ! :lol:

Does anyone know if the seats from a MK2 Galaxy are compatible with the anchorage points on a MK1 Galaxy ??

sorry my fault. I should have added at the foot of the original question, "SeatKid need not respond." :(

the old Gal was at Ford today to get to the bottom of a tapping noise that could be heard everytime the booster heater ran. the stealer diagnosed a faulty glow plug but because it's a pig of a job to get to and the car is still under warranty they'll just order a new complete booster unit. i'm a little reluctant to accept this for the following three reasons: (1) vag-com has shown no faults with this unit. (2) have read the TIS CD and it suggests the tapping noise could be due to the fuel line supplying the booster heater pulsing and tapping against the chassis. as indicated in the TSB the route for the fuel line should be modified. (3) never had any smoke from the unit and always heard it run up and down Any thoughts on this? Anyone experienced this tapping noise and had it cured??

It's difficult to say how much gas it took as I only used one cannister and there's still more left in it. The starting PSI was approx 15. A cannister holds 385 gms.

So how long do you think it should last? In my last car I also had the aircon re-gassed every two years (without any other problems) I just didn't hear the hissing noise like I did this time.

Thanks for your reply John. Thought I would take a gamble on the DIY kit as the car is still under warranty so at least they would pick up the repair bill !! I bought the kit from Halfords as previously described by MATT which comprises of a trigger device with pressure gauge and separate bottles of R134a. I would agree with others that the pressure gauge is a little erratic at first :P but it soon settled down. Anyway system now recharged and blowing out cool air. Total cost

In the last three weeks or so I have noticed the aircon on my Gal to be a little warm even when below 21DegC. This afternoon I set off in the car and with the aircon on could hear a kind of hissing type sound coming from the passenger footwell area. When I tried the aircon at LOW there was no real cold air coming out. The noise would disappear if I put the aircon into ECON mode or switched it off altogether. Is it fair to assume a simple loss of gas over time (original gas since Oct 2003) or do you think it could be something more sinister?? Is the noise coming from the compressor?

You can also (1) Depress the clutch, or (2) Sound the horn!! Personally I just move the switch on the stalk just a little bit to the right. Not so much that it clicks over to the OFF position but enough to cancel the cruise and the switch naturally returns to the ON position. When your ready to cruise again at your last setting, just press the rocker switch up (can't remember what the letter on it is) The system on these cars is not the best.

I bought my Galaxy through the Ford Direct scheme nearly a year ago now. Under the T&Cs of this scheme you have upto 30 days or 1000miles to return your car for ANY reason whatsoever and receive another car (subject to paying any balance difference if applicable) This Army guy has just taken advantage of the tax savings that can be had when buying a car and pocketing the difference when selling back in the UK There are plenty of damage free Galaxy's out there so unless you get a substantial discount I would get rid and get another. As for taking some time to get one this is a load of crap. Just look on the Ford Direct website and find the car you and tell him to get it. Shouldn't take him more than two weeks to get it. HTH.

My plans to make it Kazakhstan on one tank with this additive have failed SeatKid. As Borat might say, "Is not good". Tried it and overall economy was ~4MPG lower. Now back to Shell Diesel and all is well. As a diesel owner will have to find other ways to penny pinch!

Could supply some more info please Italiastar?? What is the revised engine code that now requires a cambelt at 60k and do you know if it also applies to the 115bhp engine. For info mine was registered 15Oct 2003. Thanks.

[select] [01 - Engine] [Login - 11] Enter 11463 to activate cruise control [Do It!]

I would like to find out more about the info and values that can be adjusted using VAG-COM (as I'm sure many other VAG-COM users would do to) So how do we get hold of this info?? Do you reckon a Ford workshop has all of this info?? Do we need to cross somebody's palm with silver to acquire this info?? I'm prepared to bribe somebody if necessary !!

The automatic locking of the door above a certain speed doesn't seem possible on the Galaxy because either there is no Central Convenience module or you just can't access it. I also have a VW Bora which does have this module and have activated this "anti-hijack" feature. What I discovered last night is that if you remove "1" from the Central Electronics module software code then it will enable a feature where when you press the unlock button on your key then upon the first click it will ONLY unlock the drivers door. Press the unlock button again and it will unlock ALL the doors. My original software code for this module was 04113. Now recoded to 04112. This feature is already enabled on my BORA. It's designed as a small safety feature which I guess makes sense if your the only one getting in the car. Why unlock all the doors?? Kind Regards.

According to my unhelpful list of DTC codes it says: 01142 Central Locking - Unlocking Motor I would clear the fault as you say but you never know it may not come back as it does say it's intermittent and may well be the first time it's been diagnosed since date of registration in 1998. PS: Did you know that taking "1" off your software code for Module 9 will enable the selective unlocking feature of central locking. i.e. unlock using the remote and ONLY DRIVERS door unlocks. Press unlock again and ALL doors unlock.

Have you completed the cambelt change on your TDi yet? If so, how difficult was it and how long did it take? Thanks.

Just use a flat blade screwdriver between the dashboard and the outer edge of the clock casing and it will pop out. The bulb is now accessible.

No probs my friend. Who needs dealers!!

For me it has to be the Conti EcoContacts which I recently had put on the front. Having had Dunlop 2020's from new the Conti's are noticeably better for grip and don't snatch like the Dunlop's used to do under quick acceleration.