dipsomaniac

Seatkid - believe me, point 4 is difficult.

Part no. 021012213 (plastic one). Engine if definately running smoother than when I had to drive to a friends on five cylinders to crowbar lead/plug out. It is running smoother but just popped out armed with spray can to water leads. It is not arcing in the usual place but have noticed the odd spark elsewhere near the three leads that I have replaced. See what is is like in a weeks time when I have replaced the other three. In the meantime I will be taking the tool back for a refund.

All you diesel owners are not going to be too interested in this posting, but I need to get this off my chest. After phoning another VW dealer, managed to get my hands on the 'important' HT lead removal tool (

I HAVE NEVER EXPERIENCED SO MUCH HASSLE CHANGING A SET OF HT LEADS! Can anyone help with lending me the VW HT lead removal tool. I live in Gloucester. VW can't get me one for a couple of days, Ford don't know what I am talking about. Car is misfiring, I have identified arcing near the HT leads but am having difficultly replacing them. It has taken me around 3 hours to replace the two leads working from the left to right nearest the inlet manifold. The problem is with the lead nearest to the throttle cable (the one I now think is causing the arcing - TYPICAL). It sits around 5" down, there is very little space and the 'off the shelf' HT lead removal tool is useless. I would appreciate and help/advice. Does anybody know whether a plug breaking down could cause the arcing or is it more likely to be the leads? http://img173.exs.cx/img173/3543/htleadimage15ok.th.jpg

Will have a go, thanks.

Gloucester. Local VW can't get one until Monday. I am reluctant to use Snap-on as I will not use it enough to justify the cost. Is the tool only needed to remove the leads? If so, does it matter if I damage them taking them off if I am replacing them with new ones? Or does the cap remain on top of the plug?

Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately, I haven't found one attached to the bonnet stay - it looks like I will have to buy one. I am showing my ignorance now as I am assuming that my 1998 mk1 V6 Galaxy is the 12V model and I need the plug tool? Can you confirm VR6?

Will hopefully be replacing all 6 HT leads tomorrow. Can anyone confirm whether I will need special tool to remove/fit leads. VW wanted

Have found a rogue spark but it was not where I expected it. Can anyone confirm whether it is likely to be the nearst HT lead which is causing the problem? http://img165.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img165&ima...eadimage1ca.jpg]http://img165.exs.cx/img165/4720/webhtleadimage1ca.th.jpg

Am still in shock! HT leads sold singly at Fords -

The speaker grilles can be replaced in minutes without removing the door card. Email me if you want me to post you some together with fitting instructions.

After switching cruise control to the on position, you press the set button at the end of the stalk at the desired speed (over 30mph), it takes a second or two to work - and initially speed may drop before increasing to the speed set when the button was pressed. That is what should happen if things are working OK. If it is still not working check the vacuum pipes connected to the cc pump behind the nearside indicator. It is common for them to become disconnected or perished. If they are OK, check the switches on top of the brake/clutch peddle.

Engine wasn't jerking in engine bay. Was about to change (or attempt to change) plugs and leads but car has been very smooth today. So am now totally confused. Any ideas? Or was the last two days a 'bad car day?'

Thanks VR6. It is hard to say whether it is an engine or transmission judder. Car is fine when in neutral and when cruising. It only judders when standing still in drive/3/2/1 and when initially accelerating. Where is the roll restrictor?

Drove car today and felt a juddering under acceleration and a vibration/juddering when stopped in drive. Car seems fine in neutral. Can anyone offer any advise?

Thanks Spanner. I had tried searching the web for information on the needle lift sensor but it is always referred to on diesel engines. Do you or anyone else know if it is definately fitted to petrol engines?

Can somebody please translate VAG-COM code 17655 (P01247) - Needle lift sensor (g80) open or short to plus? Where is this sensor and what does it do? I am not experiencing any problems apart from occassional long auto gearshifts. Thanks

I now have cruise control for the first time since I bought the car 14 months ago - Thanks again Velcrohead. After trimming back some of the old pipe (it had perished) I had to use a connecter to connect the new pipe to the old. I didn't have a plastic one coming out of the engine bay - mine was in one piece and disappeared under the battery tray. I have attached a picture of the pump as it should look for anyone with a similar problem. http://img193.exs.cx/img193/3187/webdscf34262mo.jpg

Will try to get some pipe today. Ford didn't have the pipe or connector. Will let you know how I get on.

Thanks Velcrohead. My TIS doesn't cover the mk1 Galaxy. I would never have thought to connect the pipe to the top connector as it looks capped. Still a little confused as to why the pipe doesn't reach or how long it has been disconnected and haven't traced the pipe back as it disappears under the battery tray, you know how limited space is under the bonnet? Can you just confirm the connection again and hopefully I will soon have cruise control, unlike the Aurora. http://img84.exs.cx/img84/8099/webdscf34193mh.jpg

Thanks Velcohead, I appreciate your help. I am confused as the loose pipe does not reach the top connector. Should I try adding an extention before fitting? Is the arrowed connection on the pump totally redundant on you Galaxy?

Thanks Mike

Cruise control hasn't worked since I have had the car but have not been too bothered. Had to change an indicator bulb today so I thought I would take a look at the pump and vacuum pipes. There appears to be a vacuum pipe missing from the pump. There is an unconnected pipe within the cavity but the diameter of the bore is too big for the pump. Can anybody identify the loose pipe from the attached image or whether there should be another pipe connected to the pump and if so, where does it come from? http://img123.exs.cx/img123/3681/webdscf34207ui.jpg

It does seem a bit smoother but have only done a couple of miles sofar. Will be doing 280 miles tomorrow so will know more then. I can't find any reference to those fault codes, they don't seem to be OBD II codes.

Just picked car up from autobox specialists. They added 1 litre of transmission fluid, put on diagnostics and test drove, I dropped car off at 10:00 picked up at 12:15, don't know how long it was worked on -