dipsomaniac

Just replaced mine on mk1 V6. Ford quoted

I thought it didn't sound right as I was typing it VR6 - less work it is then. Hope your parcel has now arrived? I haven't got the car back yet so can't say whether it has been worth the money. All I can say is If I wouldn't have questioned Fords prices it would have costed me approx

Just an update for anyone finding themselves in the same situation. Took compressor to air con specialists (not much fun to carry on your back whilst cycling uphill with the wind in your face). They said that the problem was terminal and was very common on Galaxys. They could replace the bearing but it would only have a very short life expectancy and that the car would suffer from a higher temperature. Decided on a new unit (credit card)

Its a good job that i am not a doctor. i was convinced after putting my home made stethoscope (screwdriver) onto the aternator that this was where the noise was coming from. After deciding that i didn't have the facilities and tools to remove the alternator i took it to my local Lucas to remove and re-condition. Once they had the car on the ramps they found that it wasn't the alternator but the a/c compressor - OUCH! I am now in the position of the car being in a place which is not a vechicle a/c specialist and unmoveable without a new a/c compressor and re-gas. Ford quoted

VR6 - Have not been able to go out to get a Haynes manual. Removed headlight today but still can't get to the alternator as there is a lot of rivoted plastic preventing access. If I rip that out I can't see how I would be able to replace it. Can you or anyone please advise further? Am going down the replacement bearing route as I have been quoted under

thanks VR6. i appreciate your help. will have a look tomorrow.

It is a 1998 model. I only have the tis version with the mk2 workshop manual. Do you know if the procedure is the same for my mk1?

Just looked on TIS. Have only got the ver. with MK2 Galaxy workshop manual. Procedure for removing alternator includes removing: undertray aux belt front pipe to cat roll restrictor air cleaner r/h engine mount (slide engine back) power steering pump a/c compressor I am beginning to have second thoughts about doing it myself as I would need to raise the vehicle. Can somebody please confirm the procedure for a MK1? I was hoping that a shortcut was removing the headlight as VR6 has mentioned above.

thanks, will get part number monday.

thanks again vr6. i need to remove alternator to see if i can just replace the bearing. is it easy to de-tension/tension aux belt?

It really hasn't been my year - autobox, waterpump, belt tensioner, girl driving into car - now the alternator bearing is knackered. Just priced one up at local motor factor -

thanks for all your replies. i will take the car back to the autobox specialists in the new year. engine doesn't appear to be moving excessively so i think roll resistor is ok.

Is that a big job?

I should say that this came from the front as if an engine mounting was loose.

thanks all for your replies. this may be another thread but the only thing the auto specialists did find at the time was a 'thudding' sound under heavy braking or replicated when trying to pull away with a foot on the brake. Again, this doesn't happen every time. Any ideas?

thanks for your replies. it seems like it misses the gear when changing to 4th, the revs increase and it bangs into 4th with a noticable 'bang'. do either of you experience the vibration in 4th at low speed? should i be kicking down?

I am hoping one of you FOKs on here can advise on whether my problem is the autobox or my driving style before returning car to the autobox specialists again. Since having autobox rebuilt in May of this year 3rd to 4th shift is not always smooth. The problem seems to happen mostly after slowing from 4th to 3rd and then when accelerating again the change to 4th (but not every time) is very rough/jerky/clunky. The autobox specialist have had the car back. It was test driven over 5 days by three different technicians who couldn't find any fault with the box. I even went out on a test drive with one of them and the box seemed OK. Yet on the 60 mile drive home 3rd to 4th was occassionally rough. I have also noticed when driving between 30-40mph 4th gear is too high and the car starts to vibrate. Should I manually kick down the gears or should the box automatically change up or is it changing to 4th too quickly? As it is a V6 I tend not to use much throttle, not just because I can hear gallons of fuel being sucked into the engine every time I put my foot down but also because the roads around here are in such a state it would probably be smoother driving on the moon. Is it my driving style or is there a fault on the autobox? I would appreciate any thoughts from the Fonts of Knowledge on here.

tie a balloon to the front and back bumpers. when parking, listen for a loud bang. on hear this - apply handbrake, alight from vehicle and go about business.

Can anyone tell me how the mk2 speaker grilles are fitted?

Thanks for the replies. She has now admitted liability and her insurance company is now sorting my car out. Good news, as it will save me

I don't know if this is coincidence but car was hit yesterday on the offside rear wheel. Tyre and alloy was damaged along with a scuff mark on rear door/wheel arch. OK if you really want to know........... The girl was on the wrong side of the road hanging out of the window looking back waving to her boyfriend when she hit me. The CD player is now not working and is showing an error 5. Does anyone know what this error is and if it is likely to have been caused by the girl in the BMW???

A lot is made of getting the transmission fluid to a specific temperature before checking. Looking at it logically the level must be correct when the fluid is at its most consistant temperature - normal driving temperature. I would check the level after a normal drive. I assume that autobox technicians only check the temperature because the car would normally be cold before the level was being checked and the fluid would have to be brought up to the correct temperature/consistancy. I stand to be corrected.

Just out of curiosity - have you found the problems Rinsewind?

The reversing light was not part of the MOT two years ago - has that changed?

I assume that you have tried two fault code readers and not two ECU's? My first thought was a faulty ECU as you are unable to access it with a fault code reader whilst the problem is occurring. But, I would have thought that would throw up a fault code? The only time I was not been able to access the ECU - the keep alive fuse had blown. Just a stab in the dark from a 'non auto electrician' - crankshaft position sensor???