Ivor_E_Tower

(tongue in cheek) I think Dave-G is the expert on "engine pans" and things not being re-fitted after servicing.....

Not had to remove the instrument cluster on my Galaxy, but IIRC from what I've read on other postings, it is not difficult. Do you have pre- or post-facelift model?

You must be lucky - every time I've tried Ebay (or is ie eBay?) for 16" Ghia wheels to replace "my" scratched ones, there have not been any on sale (and I haven't got the money for them at present anyway).

..and dealers can re-programme the sensors to take account of a towbar (for a fee, of course).

They should be illuminated, and all dash lights are on the same circuit (they dim toigether) so it would appear that you've got a bulb problem.

Back to topic - where has the gasket gone - between waterways and cylinders, waterways and external or somewhere else? Surely the garage must have the diagnosis results that lead them to conclude that it's head gasket. If it's only blown recently and the engine hasn't got too hot, then you should just need a new gasket although it may be wise to get the head skimmed just to be sure. These do not invovle taking the engine out of the car and so should be relatively inexpensive, certainly under a grand (and should be well under half that). Will depend on what is found when the engine is stripped down, assuming that the gasket really has gone. Do you have any more news on the fault yet?

There are at least two types of switches for the cruise control, but basic method of operation is the same. Slider switch for on/off/resume. Usually best to leave it in the "on" position. One type has a single switch on the end of the stalk that activates the cruise, or if held, slows the set speed. The other type has a rocker switch that can be used to increase or decrease the set speed. Not sure how you set the CC speed with this version though, as mine has the simple switch on the end of the stalk.

In any event 1900 "big ones" is too much - go to Environ's website, the "official" Ford breakers and they'll sell you a used engine for far less. Sorry, don't have the link or www for them at present and a search hasn't thrown it up - it's on the other computer.

I agree with Seatkid - the oil companies spend a fortune on R&D to get the blend of additives etc just right, so to mess around by adding other "stuff" is highly inadvisable.

..every 3 years. Maybe that's why the 3-year service is sooo expensive at the dealers. I tried another one this morning and it's getting worse -

The VW engines are designed to run on variable servicing intervals, but Ford haven't signed up to this, probably because most Ford dealers don't have the relevant equipment to fully interrogate the VW electronics. This is why the VR6 autos get referred to VW dealers to fix, because the Ford dealerships just do not have all the specialist equipment to fullt fault find and fix problems. (I could make some other remarks about skill levels and training here, but probably best not to).

Ah, but the problem is spotting "any hint of a problem". I had my Scenic's done at 5 years as a precaution because I thought that 5 years was a good "run" with no problem or noticeable drop in performance. I ran the A/C all the time except on a handful of winter days when the ambient air temp stayed below zero. Now that the wife drives this car, I don't know how the A/C will survive, because despite telling her to leave it on all the time, I know she turns it off from time to time! Because of the problems I have had with the Galaxy, if its aircon is still working 2 years after the repair, I will get it done and ask for an indication of how much gas has been lost, so I will get some idea of the system's integrity. There do seem to be schools with the extremes of servicing effort here, some say an annual service should be done, others say leave alone until trouble starts.

Agreed - sounds like too much toe-in. Are the pressures correct?

Ride and build quality issues: The SE spec Alhambra has the "sports suspension" set-up as standard; check your tyre pressures though as these can make quite a difference. Build quality seems to depend on luck of the draw, depends on the mood and enthusiasm of the assembly line workers on the day your car was being made.

It's a tricky one. I had my Scenic's aircon system drained down and re-gassed last year at 5 years old. It had never shown any signs of trouble. On the other hand, bought the Galaxy used at 2 years old and the aircon system failed one month later due to no gas! One year on from the repair, it seems to still be working fine, but if I have the funds I will get it drained and re-filled next year as a precaution. My parents have a Volvo 850 with an aircon system that still appears to work fine, and it's not been touched in 7 years.

Pre- or post- facelift? There is loads of info on this site on the subject of water ingress. Try a search. Good luck.

Have you got a radio-CD or cassette with a remote CD changer? If a CD-changer, disconnect the lead to it at the changer-end, then wait a few seconds and re-connect. That's how I cured mine. HTH Ivor.

Take it to a good auto electricians, they should be able to sort out diodes etc for you, for a fraction of the cost of a new or reconditioned unit.

Emjay - it's either in or out, no "hokey-cokey" so don't let it slip, don't use it to hold the car on a slope etc.

40,000 mile isn't the BIG one on the facelifted models - it's a "minor" one at 10,000 and 20,000 then a big one at 30,000 then repeat this cycle (minor at 40k and 50k, major at 60k etc etc). Seeing the other new post ref the cost for a 10k service only emphasises that we are being ripped off. Almost worth my while driving to Preston to get the work done....

It's probably because you have had the indoor swimming pool syndrome under your front passenger seat. The "global opening" feature has been activated by accident, then the alarm has been triggered by movement of air through the interior and/or insects flying in and out. You need to make sure that the electronics boxes under the front passenger seat are dried out thoroughly, or replaced if necessary.

Also look in the side panel where the jack and wheelbrace are fitted (use a torch and mirror if necessary), and behind the head unit in the centre console for the other end of the lead.

Just started ringing around for my 30,000 mile/3-year service booking. Seems to be a cartel in this area - all around

Warped discs?

Try your local motor factor - IIRC the compressor for the TDI is made by someone like Sandoz? Sure someone else will add the correct name for the manufacturer soon...