Ivor_E_Tower

..or if an insect or spider gets into the car and you lock it - when it/they move, the alarm can be triggered. I note with some relief that there is either no moton sensor, or not a very sensitive one, as my alarm has not yet gone off at night when one of the neighbourhood cat jumps onto the roof, slides down the windscreen and bonnet....... (trail of pawprints gives them away)

16,000 miles in 4 years won't have done the engine or its systems any good - time for a nice long journey to "blow the cobwebs" out of it too. Could be MAF or EGR related - get them checked out first, then drive around for a day or two :unsure:

Depends how much you like to spend on fuel/how much tax you like to give to the government :o Around town (urban driving) a diesel will give you at least twice the mpg of the V6. Petrol engines run rich when cold, generate more condensation which rots exhausts faster too. :unsure: Diesel has much more low-down torque and is quicker from rest to 10mph than petrol IMHO. When I moved from rural Wiltshire to overcrowded Surrey about 8 years ago I had a Rover 820 petrol single-point injection. In Wiltshire, around 38mpg, in urban Surrey around 22mpg or less. Diesel Galaxy in urban Surrey never less than 36mpg (true reading from tank brim to tank brim, not from fuel copmputer read-out).

Welcome. Seems like an obscure fault, not come across anything like that before. Can you take the unit out and check that all the connectors are properly engaged? Does it do it on both radio and CD?

Check your microwave oven for leaks! There are sensors on all opening panels (doors, bonnet etc) and interior ultrasound/microwave sensors - not sure which. All I can say is that at the last place I worked, one of my colleague's car alarm often went off during the lunch hour. Not far from it was the window of our "rest room" in which we had a fridge and a microwave oven. We suspected that the oven was leaking microwaves because the alarm was only triggered when someone was heating their pie etc in the microwave......

ISTR that the Xenons can be adjusted with a lever. "Ordinary" halogens need the black tape mask. NB you need to take spare bulbs if travelling in most EU countries - have you seen the price of them? Facelifted models have different bulbs for dip and main beam, just spent a small fortune and I've still to buy the black tape! At least I've still got another couple of months to save up.....

Ah, the great misnomer of a catalyst - I remember from school days that a catalyst does not get "used up" by the process which it aids, so a true cat will not need replacing during the lifetime of the vehicle (and pigs may fly).

Exhaust gas analysis (as per MoT)??

Just the usual, not aware of anything specifically problematic to the 130 (I live in hope of buying one, one day...)

The only problems I foresee are with the aircon system B) If it's what you want anmd a bargain, go for it before it is too late! Someone else who doesn't know or care about the spec/BHP may beat you to it if you dither too long.

Check the Honest John site and others for problems with the Espace diesel engine - there is a thrust washetr on the crankshaft (IIRC) that gives up the ghost and results in a bill for a replacement engine. I was considering a previous-shape Espace but this inherrent problem with the Renault 4-cyl diesel has put me right off - mind you, I would like the V6 diesel! What turnover do you do to get a supplier discount? I used to work for a tier 1 supplier before they moved production overseas to save money. When I bought my previous Scenic (1998), I wrote and asked Renault UK if they gave discounts to Tier 1 suppliers and they told me "no" B) Conclusion: Galaxy is best B)

Yes, but after a couple of months of producing the facelifted model, they re-printed the book to show 4 years/40,000 miles :( ..and increased the warranty to three years for UK-supplied cars :o

H-rated will still comfortably be above the vehicle's top speed. The only problem may come if you have a bad accident and the isnurance co may refuse to pay out as you had incorrect spec tyres fitted. May be worth a phone call to tell them and get the OK - but you do need to check that they are reinforced!

100,000 miles for a belt change - are you sure? What is the time-limit interval that goes with this?

We've had a problem before with someone undoing battery tray retaining bolts! Be very careful if doing this :( Pre- or post- facelift car involved?

Been covered many times before, try searching under "technical". Usually 2 switches for brake activation underneath lower dashboard, on the pedal arm itself. HTH; good luck in fixing it.

In the service book you should find a page after the normal servicing pages for "extra" work. If the first "square" for cambelt change is not stamped, try phoning the garage whose name appears for the most recent service. If they cannot confirm that the belt was changed get it done soon - it may be a bit pricey, but not as expensive as what happens if the belt snaps - and the TDI PD engine places a lot of stress on the belt. Don't tempt fate.

So, if you don't mind me asking, what did you do in the end? Keep it?

Very unlikely to be ECU/electronics, most likely MAF sensor or turbo wastegate problem IMHO.

Welcome to the forum. Try a search on this topic - it can be done but not so easy. You need a new front panel for the centre console plus the satnav unit, GPS receiver and a few wiring intricacies. May be better to go for one of the Garmin/Tom-Tom after-market units that sit on the dashboard.

How many times did they flash, or did you have to switch them of manually? If you have a remote locking key, you may find as I did that you accidentally press the unlock button when turning the key to start the engine. This results in 1 or 2 flashes of the hazards, then everything returns to normal.

Ah that's better. Looks good. ..and Iain, the numbers are Nimrod counting down to join the exclusive club. Don't get him to post too many more times at this time of night, it's too late to cut and eat the cake!

That's no good - we need to see the whole side so we can tell if the car's attitude looks OK (nose up/down; slope of sills wrt ground etc) - and I'm getting the cake ready to celebrate when you join the exclusive "1000+" club :rolleyes:

I suspect that there are at least 2 types - one for driver's wiper on top, one for driver's wiper underneath. Then there will be the "modified" linkage parts (in effect the manufacturer saying we got it wrong first time and have changed the design as a result).