Ivor_E_Tower

The cat will prevent the car from starting if it is blocked, and we've had a number of posts where the cat insides have self-destructed. I take it that the car still won't start? Can you take the plugs out and have a look at them (did the diagnostics person do that?) Are they all roughly the same colour and if so, grey, black, etc? Can you by-pass the fuel filter to eliminate it as the cause? Sounds unlikely to me - if it were getting blocked then idle would usually be OK, but as you needed more fuel, higher revs, higher speeds etc, it would restrict the flow of fuel and show its effects at speeds other than idle.

Do a search on blocked drains, pollen filter (incorrectly fitted) for starters. Unlikely to be a windscreen seal problem this time round.....

Agreed - first stage is to check coolant level, then the wires to the low-level sensor and the coolant temperature sensor. Even if they look OK, pull them out, give them a good clean and put them back. Then report back with any update on the situation.

Special oil is required for the VW "PD" engines - 115 and 130 PS (bhp) versions in the Galaxy. Earlier 90 and 110 versions can use oil of a lesser spec.

The Ah figure is the storage capacity; the cold crank figure is a better indication of how much power the battery can produce when it is cold, but it all depends on what you mean by "better" - better for what? Higher cold crank figure will be better (more power) fr cold starts so long as the battery is fully charged, or nearly fully charged. And what is the difference at more normal temperatures?

115 and 130; I kept stalling my 115 when I got it, having come from a Renault direct-injection 1.9 diesel; the Renault's anti-stall is much better, presumably increasing the fuel delivery more when it senses the engine is under load with no throttle; the VW PD engine requires the accelerator pedal to be pressed else it will just cry "enough" and let the engine stall. I've got used to it now though :D

It depends on lots of things - including what type of journeys you do, how long you intend to keep it, what style of driving you prefer (lazy and relaxing or boy-racer) etc. As an example when we moved to where we are now, my wife used a 1.5 petrol car; used to give around 28mpg on short journeys (sometimes much less), around 2 miles, principally to local school and shops. Exhaust rotted through every 12 months (lucky I bought life-time replacement warranty with it!). Engine hardly got warm and was running "rich" on the choke most of the time. Since changing to a Renault Scenic diesel, average mpg is around 35 (no choke or rich running with a diesel) and exhaust is still original after 6 1/2 years. For the mileage that we do, it's one annual service so no real difference between petrol or diesel there. Diesel is also more relaxing for the driving we do - fewer gearchanges which must also result in longer clutch life.

IIRC Alhambra has 6-dial instrument pack including voltmeter - suspect it is here that 8v is being indicated. First step is to connect separate voltmeter across the battery at start-up, and when engine is running and stopped. You can buy a general purpose one for under

You seem to have identified it as having 6 cylinders, so from 1995 (or "N") it will be the VR6 2 valves per cylinder (12-valve) producing IIRC 176 bhp or thereabouts, rather than IIRC 204bhp of the later, 24-valve units. First step will indeed be to clean the idle air control valve as already suggested. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Could be shorted wire between driver's door and A-post - which has taken out a live supply to the clock and also stopped the driver's door lock from working correctly. Definitely the place to start looking....

Was your Vag-com a Christmas present?? :huh:

Well, I always try to look on the bright side of life......

No, a record is a circular black piece of plastic with a hole in the middle and a spiral groove on each side :huh: Couldn't resist that one - well it is the festive season Merry Christmas all !

You can get syringes from good pharmacies - I used to buy them when a student for mixing/measuring photographic chemicals. You do get some strange looks from the staff behind the counter though :huh:

Those VW rear lights look gross! At least the Galaxy chrome bits are tasteful. They don't really stand out on a silver car, and IMHO with silver, I prefer the black foglamp surrounds.

Warranty is 2 years for imported cars and 3 years for "genuine" UK-supplied cars. Check with Ford's warranty centre if youare not sure - you should be covered if the car has been serviced to schedule - if it's a 53, then first reg date will be 01 Sep 2003 so it must be under some sort of warranty cover.

Where are you? I can suggest 2 places in the GU postcode area to try (not so far from the GTC)

53 plate implies car is only around 1 year old. Unlikely that the battery gives trouble this early, but surely the fault will be covered by warranty?

There is the "official" Ford breakers, called something like "Environ sales" but their details are on my other computer; could possibly pick up second-hand aircon bits from them but of course, compressor and evaporator may be worn out :( as they are not the most robust bits fitted to the Galaxy.

When you turn the key and it doesn't start - do the dash warning lights and radio illumination go dim, or stay at the same brightness? (in other words, is the starter motor trying to draw current?)

This is all well above my head but sounds (no pun intended) amazing. Any chance of some photos when it is all complete?

Did you throw a bucket of salt over it? :D

Where are you that it got to -5 last night? It's forecast to get down there tonight in the south-east, but it was well above zero this morning (Surrey-Hampshire border).

If it needs re-gassing, get it done ASAP. There should be no difference in cost between summer and winter but you need to keep the compressor lubricated.