Ivor_E_Tower

Gulp I assume that your Alhambra should be on the same service intervals as the Galaxy - 2 minor services followed by a major every 3 years. So you should only be paying around

wonkydog - the power is fed to the booster through the co-ax aerial lead, not a separate 12 volt feed. That is why you need the special adapter in the aerial lead, it takes its power from the radio feed, and sends it up the co-ax to the aerial amplifier.

My mobile just slips into the cradle I fitted on the centre console, no external aerial. Works OK for me, heated front screen and all .......

Same problem as above - you need an aerial amplifier unit

I read many years ago that if you are worried about oil temp, it means that the engine designers got their sums badly wrong. Not sure if the instrument panels or clocks are interchangeable between Alhambra and Galaxy, but based on previous experiences on this forum, even if they are, some re-programming will be necessary.

Ghia 5-spokers are about

Yes, the latest VW PD TDI engines are set up for this and use 506.01 oil. Ford haven't been offered or taken up this option (not sure if VW gave them a choice) hence even the Galaxy 130PS and 150PS diesels are on fixed mileage (or annual) servicing.

Bizarely enough, having posted my response above, when I got in my Gal to drive home, the "Service in 2000 miles" message came up. So I have a feeling that it may be time-realted too, because I ended up having to reset it last July after the car was serviced. Maybe it assumes 1000 miles per month average, and automatically starts to remind you after 10 months, if you haven't travelled 10,000 miles in the meantime (off top of my head, recon I have only gone about 5,000 miles since last service). ...and it reset using the trusted method (push milo reset before turning ignition key on, and hold for a few seconds).

Best to take one of the front wheels off and measure it yourself - be careful not to crush your sills :(

Been done before; you will need device to rotate pistons when pads are retracted, bleed via nipples so as not to push old fluid back into ABS unit. Also check the diameter of the discs first, as there have been 2 different sizes of discs/callipers fitted to "early" facelifted models (X and Y plates). More info is on the forum; try the search function.

Probably not properly reset at the last service.

No, never have got the wheels done and probably ever will. Could end up buying a set off e-bay, or maybe end up leaving them as they are until I trade it in (keeping my fingers crossed that I will finally get the money owed to me around April next year, when the next-generation Galaxy should be just weeks away from going on sale .....)

Sniffer - just a suggestion - if yo go on annual trip to France, get a french dealer to look at it when you are on holiday; chances are that it will cost less than taking it to a UK dealer, and that you will get a better job done.

Same old things - coil packs, working aircon, all electrical items must work, interior trim may have been abused by younger members of the community. NB spate of auto box failures, but these seem confined to diesels not the VR6. As for mpg figures, probably be only slightly worse than your old 2.3

Cost saving; the law changed and a 3-point belt became a legal requirement. A lap belt on the middle seat is the single biggest concern I have with my Galaxy, but as it is frequently used with different seating configurations, I'm not really able to consider drilling the floor to take the Securon belt.

Yes - but Paul still has a problem that he cannot loosen his wheel nuts; Have you tried the extending-handle wheelbraces from car accessory shops, or Tesco for about

Macford - the pistons have to be rotated as you push them back; has been covered before with photos of the special tools you can buy to assist in doing the job. James's post doesn't make this too clear.

I don't have the multi-media system but cannot believe that it is so fault-prone. I would suggest that your dealer just does not have the qualified technical staff to sort the problem. You should still be under warranty (right?) so be up front with the dealer - say that you are not happy with his ability to fix the problem, is it down to lack of technical knowledge and if so, can he recommend another dealer near you who may be able to sort it, else could he recommend an in-car entertainment place where he can arrange for your car to go, then he pays and forwards the bill to Ford for warranty payment.

Does the existing horn work through a relay? If not, and it is low power then the airhorns may cause the horn switch to burn out (arcing - could be dangerous) - this is despite the fuse having an "acceptable" rating.

Update - just checked mine and they have just 8 splines, not 9. So I can't help you out. :( Sorry !

Looks very similar to mine (October 2000 build date) so maybe there are just a few different locking keysets? Have you tried any of the fast-fit tyre places to see if they can remove the locking bolts? Would then be cheaper to buy a set from somewhere like Halfords rather than getting the genuine Ford ones.

Check the connectors on the wiring loom - maybe one of the pins has been damaged when you fitted your other CD player; also check the pins on the back of the Ford radio itself for same possible problem. I think there may be an internal fuse in the radio that has blown - when you connect it up and then switch on the lights, does any back-panel lighting on the radio work ? (or isn't there any?)

Yes - things deteriorate with time too, and I don't think that oil is best left that long especially when used on low-mileage cars; I also do a low annual mileage, maybe nearer to 6,000 per year rather than your 5,000. A year is a long time in the life of a car, many other things can start to "go off" and it is best to make sure that important things are checked. This is one reason why I have used Nationwide Autocentres (formerly Lex) to service my cars for the last x years - the wheels are taken off and the brakes checked. Main dealers don't do that - they rely on brake pad warning lights. Spend at Tesco and send your clubcard vouchers off for servicing at one-quarter of the "rack rates" at Nationwide. I have no association with them other than as a satisifed customer. I am sure that many local garages will do just as good a job too.

What support is there for upgrades etc ? (ref the Navman, not the wife !)

Check you have power to both live feeds (ignition-switched and permanent live). Also check that the earth cable is still connected to earth. If all these check out OK, then the head unit itself is duff. Not sure if it has any internal fuses, but it will be time to start opening it up. Do you have a 12 volt DC supply at home?