Ivor_E_Tower

It's all about taking risks and keeping your fingers crossed.

Maybe exhaust heatshield (underneath the car but could be under where the centre console is, giving the impression that it is inside the car). Is the exhaust due for changing?

If the display is blank, how do you know you have to input the code? It should say "code". If it is totally blank, then there is no power to the unit so check the fuses first, then take the radio out and check the conections to it.

90BHP still available in LX trim at that age, and best avoided. Go for a zetec or Ghia. Avoid auto transmission as there seem to be a fair number of issues with it (several forum members reporting rebuilds at cost of around 2 grand !!). Make sure cambelt has been changed if car has done over 40,00 miles, make sure aircon works and that you get a warranty that covers the aircon for at least 12 months from date of purchase. Otherwise, usual things like make sure that all electrical items work, reasonable tread depth on all tyres including spare (make sure that the winch works ....). Don't forget that only 1 remote locking key comes as standard. Running costs: At least 30mpg possible around town (more likely 35 in my experience) and nearer 50 on longer runs if you stick to the legal limits. Servicing costs will vary with geography - much worse in London and south-east. Service interval is 10,000 miles or 1 year, 2 "minor" services then a "major", then 2 minors then a major (get the pattern?) with cambelt change every 40,000. Minor services are around

One day I am going to get organised and crate a scratch-pad into which I post links to common questions ...... There are at least 2 threads somewhere on this forum covering the fitting of roof-rails. The headlining needs to be removed, which also means loosening or removing most of the interior side trim panels. You will need to drill the roof and the rubber strips out; choose a clearance drill for the bolts that secure the rails, and you may want to seal the insides of the bolts with silicone sealant to asssist in keeping the rain out too. Re-fitting trim is the reverse of removal. It is supposed to be an easy job, just time-consuming. Use a sharp drill suitable for metal; protect the area where you are going to drill with masking tape to minimise "wander" and to reduce damage if the drill should slip.

I have discovered a subtle difference - if you get in and lock using the handle, the interior lights are immediately extinguished. If you lock using the separate button, the interior lights remain on - I found this out to my advantage in a dark multi-storey car park a few weeks ago. We live and learn !

On faclifted models the door trim needs to be removed; on earlier ones (like yours), just cut/prise off the old grilles and glue new ones on using hot-melt adhesive or similar. (Yes, you should remove the door trim if you want to do the job "properly", but who will be able to tell?)

Seats should fit OK; mirror backs - I have a carport post that is brilliant for removing them so long as you hit it at just the right angle and speed :blink: . They just push on (and pull off but be careful).

I think this got asked just a few weeks ago, and nobody could come up with a way of doing it. Best thing is to lock the doors before you drive off; the crash sensors will automatically unlock them if you are unfortunate to be involved in an accident.

Neither can I at the moment ! Oh well - yes it is true that boxes do gunge up with carbon deposits etc as they get old, but basically this will only quieten the noise and make little difference to the sound. If the new exhaust does not sound right (ie a little noisy, rather than just a change in tone to what you are used to hearing) then something may be wrong. Make sure that there are no leaks.

Depends on what the problem is; if it is just a duff glow-plug, about

Just under

With both front tyres worn on the inside edges, sounds like the tracking is way out. Very much doubt that it has anything to do with the PAS.

Don't forget that the tyres are all that enables your Galaxy to grip the road. Higher tyre wear on "newer" tyres is because of the enhanced grip that they offer over tyres from the 1990's, 1980's and earlier. Personally I would only buy "reputable brands"; the Dunlops sem to wear faster than Contis or Michelins but then Michelins in particular appear expensive and are often hard to find at a discount.

There is a way of setting the lock so that it does NOT open with the doors; sounds like you may have accidentally activated this mode.

See reply on other thread; please don't post the same question twice in different sections of the forum; "regulars" read all sections and will find just one post fairly quickly !

No personal experience but I have read good things about them (so long as you do not have a trade-in that you want them to take off your hands because I don't think that they do that sort of thing).

Facelifted Galaxys have different door mirrors to facelifted Sharans/Alhambras; I suggest that someone may have been telling porkies when describing your "new" mirrors.....

Agree with John - and do make sure that both rear brake lamps are working correctly now - not a duff bulb with the rear lamp and brake lamp cross-wired? Check lighting intensity when you get someone else to press the brake pedal.

Reminds me of the Mondeo estate that my last employers bought as a pool car (no pun intended!) Brand new, the rear washer squirted the inside of the tailgate glass although the wiper cleaned the outside. Quite how this got through the PDI, I do not know (well, I suspect that I do actually, the usual standard of work from the Ford dealer!)

Stop it - you're just showing off !

Have you had a full 4-wheel alignment check done? Sounds a little puzzling. Was going to suggest that he caste angle is out, or maybe the wheel itself is distorted (have you tried using the spare in this position, or is it different size?)

That's because you get stung for one hour's labour to remove the engine under-tray and re-fit it afterwards (at around

It does wear the tyres out faster though (higher cornering forces) but you should then get 60,000 miles or more from a set of brake pads (been there, done that).