Ivor_E_Tower

...because long service intervals appeal to the accountants who decide what cars their company will buy for their workforce; it makes the cars look cheap to run. If you look at the USA, stories of up to 100,000 mile service intervals are common. What they don't tell you is that this is dependent on oil changes (and a safety inspection) every 6,000 to 10,000 miles. Apparently most Americans do not trust oil change intervals of over 6,000 miles.

Try Sellotape "stickies" if they are still made (foam padding with self-adhesive backing), or use thin self-adhesive repair tape for conservatory roofs/plastic drainpipes and gutters (eg from B&Q)

You are not seriously comtemplating a long journey when the car hasn't been serviced for nearly a year are you ? At the very least, get the oil changed and the brake pad level checked.

Duff alternators can cause strange things to happen - find a good auto electricians soon and get the car (battery, alternator etc) checked out.

Thank goodness for that :o

It costs loads (around

Sure that you haven't got any spiders living inside the sensor housings ? ;)

Open the car and pop the bonnet release. Now get out and lock the car so that you think the alarm has been set. Now open the bonnet fully. If the alarm starts to sound, you have one fitted. If not, then there is no alarm (or the alarm is broken).

Check what grade you need then find something suitable by Castrol or Valvoline. :huh:

If you mean the symbols on the climate panel flash for a few seconds when you first "switch on", then it means there is a fault.

Off the internet :)

...and that is how it is supposed to work, just to make things clear.

So it's one of the other pulleys that the drive belt passes over, and the vibration from that is causing "oscillations" in the PAS pump. How's the aircon? Compressor working OK? Does the belt also turn the water pump? Any signs of oil leaks etc around any of the pulleys round which the drive belt passes?

Italiastar - not seen any comments about Sidlow.

Well, there are some similarities I suppose ...

Mobile maternity unit? Or do you mean "berth" ? Find out the weight first; if it is similar to what has been mentioned above, then you will have no problem; autos generally tow better than manuals.

I'd like that front grille please, but I hope it's cheaper than the last time I looked at the price in Euros !

This place (at its old premises) didn't get such a good report from at last one of our members (Porker) some months back, and for those not in the know, their old premises were demolished some months ago. An advertising board has now sprung up on the site proclaiming it has been aquired for old peoples' homes to be built on behalf of McCarthey and Stone (IIRC). Draw your own conclusions ......

..think I am going to have to change the battereis in my remote key soon, and I'm dreading it - hope the key remains synchronised :blink:

Only the Xenons, not the normal halogen lamps.

From one Ivor to another - I used Halfords own-brand stick-on beam benders last autumn when we went to France. No problems, they come with a comprehensive instruction sheet telling you where to stick them, and they came off very easily without marking the plastic headlamp lenses.

Brake pedal interlock switch, perhaps ? Have you checked your brake lights are working too ?

That means that the wires to the tailgate are OK, so you have probably just accidentally disengaged the tailgate from the central locking system. Is there a way that the tailgate can be 'taken out' of the automatic unlocking/locking cycle? Yes - see handbook (mine's tucked away safely)

It's not power you need to tow, but torque. Think you will find that the 90 is quite a bit down when compared to the 110, but still has sufficient "go" to make towing a possibility. A 4-5 berth van will however take time to acccelerate up to speed (but I suppose you are limited to 50 anyway).