gregers

yes thanks ron,after exhaustive searching on the net.the only place you can get the codes for the v rated radios is either ebay or fords themselves. i also inquired at 1 of my local ice shops who wanted iro

ask here very helpful, forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=483687

bump

had a replacement battery fitted today and even after i told them i didnt have the code they ignored what i said,so i need a code plz peeps. this is on my smax,sony mp3 model cd3xx i seem to have 2 serial numbers?? 1 on top VO21335 and 1 on the side GLJ153503. thanks in advance.

if you mean the sump plug?then its under the car,and the under tray needs to be removed. as for the brakes how on earth are you going to fit new pads n disks without the wind back tool anyway? can be done without but from what i remember reading its ROYAL PIA. do a search in the tech section of the forum.

chris i know you have reasons for the mk3.and yes m8 i agree with what you are saying about the tyres with kwik fit etc,mind you they are on a good screw with mobility anyway,1 time we had to get a virtually new tyre repaired because of a screw,lo and behold they fitted a new tyre,the screw was in the middle of the tread.i said if that was a private car would they repair it,YEPP was the reply. with my missus she decided on a vw tiguan,and straight out the box the fuel economy is a hell of a lot better then her smax ever was,we reckon she is putting in half the amount she used to per week. although the deposit made a dent in my wallet,its just a dream to drive.well apart from the auto parking mode that makes my bum cheeks clench every time i try it.

return it and see what they say,if youve paid for them to rectify problems on your car,let them sort it out.

im sure somewhere on here there are instructions on how to remove the door card,have you tried looking in our faqs found in the technical part of the forum? iirc there are a couple of screws on the handle and 1 on the lever?once the lever is lose remove the cable/knuckle from it,also be aware there will be a small cable going to the red light on the door card,this will need to be unclipped,then once all screws are removed you should be able to slide the card upwards,then you should find a plastic liner stuck onto the door gently remove this and then you can gain access to the innards of the door.

do a search,has been covered before.

why bud? if i done that this thread no doubt would be up to about 60 pages. :25:

as seat kid says,you can check this yourself.with the engine off open bonnet grab hold of the engine block and try and rock it,if it moves easily then its looking like the roll restrictor.

righto blokes,ive tried to keep the proper questions,and have made another thread about them.but by doing so makes this 1 look a tad messy?let me know what you think. ive also changed the title of this 1 and will move it somewhere else.

test

oi lets keep this one on topic shall we. :lol:

:49:

this is where we as a forum,need to obtain all/any tsb's that have been released. no doubt some of them could well be free to make the car/s to behave better? but im suspecting that because they are not on general release the so called dumb customer picks up the tab.

apologizes i was a tad phissed last night :unsure: somewhere within that drivel i posted was a comparison??? i never give up when im playing golf,even if it starts blowing a hoolie. just for your info,you bunch of heevans :D it tells me what the distance is too the greens,front/middle and back.very useful bit of kit to have. oh and i certainly dont need any help to find my way back to the 19th. im thinking of splitting this thread from where it starts to get a tad silly and just make a 'general chat thread'? you lot happy with that? as it seems to be the most liveliest thread on here at the moment?.

simples isnt it design something that will last,company goes out of business because there is no on going monies coming in. design something that fails after a certain time,and make it expensive to replace.company does very well in on going business. i play golf,and about 2 years ago bought a garmin sat nav watch,cost me 150 quid(now it costs 99 quid).been super seeded now by newer models. now this watch has a rubber strap moulded onto the body of the watch,and there have been a lot of reports where the strap breaks(mines still ok). when this happens it has to go back to garmin at a cost of 70 quid for a new rubber body. can you imagine the conversation in the r&d office, now peeps shall we allow the customer to be able to change the strap from there local market for a few quid?or make them spend nearly 70% of the total cost of the item on a F*****G RUBBER STRAP.yep its the latter. one thing i have thought about guarantees etc,if you follow a lot of advice from the likes of martin lewis etc about tv's and white goods where you MAY be able to claim up to 5 years from purchase,NOW why cant that be replicated it to cars?. my washing machine is on constantly through out the day,so gets a lot of abuse.

oh crap. you sure you cant get to it?? coz it isnt cheap to get 1 from the stealers.

and if its like the 1 i own,doesnt worry about how much fuel is in it either,well not until I HAVE TO PUT SOME IN. :rolleyes:

at least youve found the problem, 2.8 eh,you should be leaving virtually everything behind :35: dont fancy your fuel bill though :lol:

i think you are correct about the bulbs. makes sense really as the so called working old 1 was no doubt the same age as the blown 1 i changed(does that make any sense? :wacko: ) better get the (new)blown 1 changed pronto or ill be forever chasing the problem, :rolleyes: :lol:

you beat me to it m8ty, :wacko: had to replace 1 of the many headlight bulbs in my car this evening,twas 1 of the h1 jobbies.was going to do it after work but was a tad windy where i was so in the end i done it at my local sainsburys as i had to visit the place anyway,ended up taking the complete headlight out,changed bulb got home and rechecked TO FIND THE EXACT SAME BULB BUT ON THE OTHER SIDE IS NOW NOT WORKING.bloody things eh.

OK. The radio is sort of better but you need a co-driver to use it. :29: i dont find it that to difficult,as my smax has the convers dash board and i can change a lot in not all the settings from there, 1 thing i do have trouble with is making phone calls through the buttons on the stereo,i just use the phone itself and let the bluetooth take over.

i find my seats more comfortable in my smax then i did in my old mk2,but maybe thats because there half leather?? dunno about the mk3 but in the smax the aircon seems woeful.in the mk2 it wasnt brilliant,but in a mk1 i test drove the missus was VERY PLZED TO SEE ME, :38: :16: