seatkid

99% Turbo. The turbo oil seal has failed and the engine started to run uncontrolled on oil sucked straight from the turbo. If it got to 7000 rpm then other engine damage (valve gear etc) is likely.

I think one or more of your brake lights has the wrong kind of bulb fitted or has been fitted incorrectly - shorting the parking and brake circuit together. Remove both brake bulbs, establish that the parking lights work correctly. Then check the brake bulbs are both dual filament 5w/21w offset pin types. Then refit one at a time making sure that its fitted correct way round.

On early Mk1 (pre 1998) the clock only illuminates when the ignition/or lighting is on. On later Mk1 (1998-) the clock only illuminates when the lighting is on.

*****News Update***** Apparently British Gas lied..... :lol: Direct Debit customers can expect a 42% increase in price.

You can apply 12 volts directly to the compressor to check it kicks in. Be warned however, if the gas has been overfilled as sometimes happens, you may damage the compressor. That is the reason for the 3 way pressure switch, which is in line with the supply to the compressor.

OK I understand you now, Sep. I find it hard to imagine that anyone would neglect to lubricate parts liberally during/after a rebuild and during initially starting the engine (but idiots do exist). A competent mechanic will have to open up and examine the top end as part of the overall assessment. RIPOFF did say that the engine ran for 3 hours before the problem occurred though....maybe I read that wrong? Has RIPOFF paid them anything yet? I'm not sure what relationship Westie's problem has with this one, but I don't think Westie should come to the conclusion that because his car doesn't start that its down to timing or camshaft sensor. Lots of things can stop the engine from starting. Westie, you need to check with a diagnostic tool first ......

It looks as if the car was running normally and the problem occurred. i.e. it was a sudden event - something significant happened. They initially diagnosed correctly that the timing was out but wrongly assumed it was the camshaft sensor (if this was faulty the car wouldn't start) They have since been chasing red herrings thinking the fault is electrical (glowplugs, ecu) culminating in them blowing fuses or possibly damaging wiring - they are obviously out of their depth in dealing with electrics. I think the problem will be easy to fix, but needs to be done elsewhere, at a competent garage/dealer. It remains to be seen if the head rebuild is of adequate quality, but I don't see why a PD head refurb would be anymore difficult or involved than any other cylinder head refurb. "continually cranking the engine with no gearbox oil in the cambox to keep the top end alive before engine oil finally arrives" I don't understand this statement. The top end is not supplied by gearbox oil, it has a normal engine oil feed, which is available during cranking albeit a trickle. The cam/followers don't rely on oil pressure, just a minimal flow to maintain an oil film on the cam. Chances of damage due to sustained cranking is virtually nil.

I bow to your greater knowledge. But I still think the timing has slipped....

99% sure its not the ECU (it would die completely) Glow plugs dont come on at this time of the year and it would still start fine without them in this weather I tell you its the camshaft timing....... And now he's f**ked the electrics cause he's out of his depth. And, for those who dont believe the camshaft sprocket is not keyed and held on with three bolts, here's a picture courtesy of Briskoda forum http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z214/skudmissile_2007/CIMG2639.jpg see this cambelt changing guide for a PD engine I hope Briskoda don't mind me linking to their site.

You have checked/changed the air filter of course? Has this car got a MAF sensor? After changing the O2 sensor did you disconnect the battery for 2-3 minutes to make sure all the ECU maps are reset? (Remembering the radio code will be lost when battery disconnected...)

quit moaning, put another jumper on....... :lol: Look at the positives, British Gas has promised to increase prices further until the end of the year :rolleyes:

On mine (mk1) theyre clipped to the wheel liner near the top of the strut. Obvious when you look in the wheel arch.

If its intermittent it could simply be a connector problem. Check the connectors (in the top of the wheel arches at the front, dont know where at rear). Undo them , inspect and clean and remake.

Check the engine roll restrictor is secure.

IIRC only Ford engined models with manual a/c have a icing switch mounted on the evaporator. Certainly climate control (LCD display) models don't. I think its more likely the 3 way pressure switch that is the reason. As your a/c works, the pressure builds up and if there is too much gas then the switch will trip on overpressure. You can check it with a meter or bridging it out for a short while (dont do it for more than a few seconds because if the pressure is too high then you could damage the compressor). If you establish that its the pressure switch thats stopping the a/c, first you need to establish whether the amount of gas in your system is correct. Search the forum for location of the pressure switch.

Thats an awful lot of grass they need to find to cut! :rolleyes:

I think in software parlance it's called a bug. I also think someone said it only affected a limited number of vehicles, specifically those with 110bhp AFN engine IIRC

The problem is allegedly in the software of the ECU - expecting a minimum cranking speed that is too high on a hot engine.

Thats like someone living in Monaco visiting Rotherham.

Soon be Christmas... :lol:

Simple.....give her yours. Surely you love your wife more than your car? :lol:

You can't. Try kwikfit,

First have it regassed. Kwikfit will refill it for

What model, year and engine etc etc. or do I need my crystal balls again? :lol:

Are you sure its the 2 zoned version? The 2 zoned version can be identified by rear roof mounted vents and electric rear quater window only on one side. Both versions have a control unit with front/rear temperature controls and display so don't be fooled by that. If as I suspect you have the standard single air con, then the correct quantity is the lower - 750g (check that label - mine says 950g ). If it is overfilled, the 3 way pressure switch prevents the compressor operating. The 3 way pressure switch is a low/normal/high affair. You can bridge this out but you stand damaging the compressor if the gas quantity is wrong.