seatkid

First check your spark plugs/leads/coilpak(s) as it sounds as if you are firing on 3 cylinders.

Dont forget there are a number of switches that can stop the compressor from working. 1. External temp switch located under the front bumper drivers side (normally stops the compressor if temp is less than 5 deg C) 2. Icing switch (Ford engines only) - this thermostatic switch is located on the evaporator unit behind the dash. 3. 3 way pressure switch (located near the dryer on the Mk 1) - this will stop the compressor if the system has too little or too much gas.

Two designs are used, earlier models have 2 switches. You can adjust their heights independently AFAIK. Later models had a single dual switch - also height adjustable I think. The MIL light is thrown on when the switches show conflicting states - or when one or more brake lamps fail (on models without a brake lamp fail display on the dash). One switch is used for the brake lights and the other is used by the ECU for other things including cruise cancel.

Please note that Mk II models have a dryer that is integrated with the condensor and a very common problem is a leak above the dryer. This is hidden blow a plastic cap so is often overlooked. Search the forum (it may be in the FAQ) for pictures and more information. The dryer must be replaced when a compressor is changed. Most compressor suppliers insist you also change the expansion valve otherwise their warranty is invalid. A big problem is to know how much PAG oil to put into the dryer and compressor. There is a guide on how to calculate the amounts on the Ford TIS CD. It is important the correct amount of oil is put in (not too much or too little). If the a/c has been opened for a long time (or had a hole in the pipework or condensor) then its recommended that a specialist flushes the system out before refilling the system with gas and oil.

Before anyone goes out and shells out £££ to fit a new compressor let me tell you my (very longwinded) story........ I bought my Alhambra in 1998 Fast forward to 2002 After 3 and a half years years the a/c started making gurgly hissing noises and seemed less effective. I took it into my dealer of choice and they refilled it for £85. After a few days the original symptoms returned and I travelled the 30 miles back to the dealer and complained. They messed around for an hour or two and said they found the faulty bit - a leaking valve (£8.50) - and charged me another £85 to regas and dye. I noticed they had an old fashioned 2 gas bottle on a trolley setup. After a few more days the symptoms returned, I again returned and complained, but this time they didnt want to know and claimed there was nothing wrong and fobbed me off. The a/c stopped working completely after about 2 weeks. Next time I took it in for a full service I asked them to look at it and they diagnosed (at my cost) a leaking evaporator (located behind dash) - and a leaking compressor. These were, according to them common failures. They however didn't seem very confident with their diagnosis. Cost to repair? around £1500 + vat + no guarantee it would work as the pipes might be leaking as well......they contacted SEAT for goodwill who basically told me to fuck off. I said thank you but no thank you and good bye to dealer servicing..... I bought a new evaporator and drier with the intention of changing them - but after an hour of starting to strip the dash I gave up and said fuck it. I've still got the evaporator and drier in the loft - I must Ebay them sometime. Fast forward to 2007. Having got used to life without a/c, we had a particularly hot spring, and Kwikfit started doing their £49 a/c refill with no charge if it dont work guarantee. Thought I'd give it a try - lo and behold she came back to life. After 10 weeks it started making the "I'm almost out of gas noise" and I got it refilled again (£30 because the guy remembered me) and she lasted for about another 3 months IIRC. No red hot summers meant I didnt bother refilling it again for a while... Fast forward to 2010 Going to Poland in summer so time to get her refilled. When servicing the car myself, I noticed some yellow dye behind the compressor pulley so I decided to tighten up the compressor bolts a bit on the pulley end plate which seemed a little loose. Not a very nice or bright guy at Kwikfit this time however - he didn't take kindly to me telling him he needs to connect both ports to refill it correctly. "I always fill cars with one pipe ok mate.." Anyway after half an hour - bad news - machine says no - big leak detected, zero gas, cant fill. Oh, I thought its finally given up the ghost or my tightening up bolts has fucked it. That summer trip in 38 deg C high humidity, full car, was unforgettable for the wrong reason..... Fast forward to 2011 Going to Poland again - serious thinking - forecast hot again. After servicing her thoroughly I started looking at replacement compressors etc £350 from ebay etc and should I change it myself?...erm no.....went to my local VW dealer - they insist on £100 diagnostic before even attempting a compressor change, the cost for which (with drier) would be about £1300+ with no guarantee it would fix the problem - what is with these wankers? Anyway, I ummed and ahhed a lot and finally ran out of time to do anything. So, in a rare moment of inspiration, I decided on one last attempt - I'll tighten the bolts at the other end of the compressor (there seemed to be seal of some sort nearby which I sprayed with some penetrating oil to try and make it swell a bit) - the bolts were tight but I tightened them a bit more anyway. Take it to Kwiwfit - this time another branch with someone who finally knows what he's doing. After 5 minutes the guy says they can't do anything because the compressor isn't working. I say, its because it doesnt have any gas. He says, no its full of gas according to the gauges but the compressor doesnt work. I say, are you sure? He says, definitely. I drive off, puzzled and depressed, but I notice in the corner of my eye that the CC panel doesnt flash as usual. I press the auto button - and......CLICK!....what the...... I get home and it seems the compressor is kicking in and is working, albeit very feebly. Next day I go back to kwikfit - tell them and they refill the gas (they take out 800g out) and once again I have woking a/c and this years trip to Poland although unforgettable for other reasons, is now air conditioned...... 10 weeks later still working without any tell tale signs of leakage - I will have to wait and see if bolt tightening had any effect. Where the 800g of gas came from when previously there was none remains a big mystery - I put it down to the power of prayer. MORAL OF THE STORY - NEVER TRUST A GARAGE DIAGNOSIS especially if it involves major expense or air conditioning. Don't even trust a garage can refill your a/c properly! If I'd have trusted them I could have spent £2000 fixing something that wasnt really broken with no guarantee and a high probability of breaking something else. Sorry for the long post folks..

That is not a good test - its possible for 12v to be present at a disconnected connector due to leakage (a high resistance) - but not actually capable of supplying sufficient current when plugged in. Check for 12v at the connector when it is actually connected.

Well done. I'm sure the pics will provided others with useful info. Thnx

Hopefully someone will be along with the info you require. In the mean time look at this - maybe that will help

Check the main vacuum pipe from the servo going back to the engine (towards inlet manifold for petrol, towards vacuum pump for diesel) It often splits at the ends of a run where there is a joint or connection to the manifold (petrol engine)

Double check by check you actually have 12v on your clutch (measure across the connector), you could even try a direct 12v feed to make sure. Its unusual for a clutch to fail electrically. Note there is a 3-way pressure switch that supplies the 12v to the compressor. If its under or overfilled then the pressure switch stops the compressor engaging.

If its like my Mk1 then just get a wide blade screwdriver or a knife and gently push this between the plastic lens and the rooflining (short end), then gently twist to push the lens down, its just held in by molded clips on the lens.

Just to clarify As yours is a PD unit injector engine amarok's comment about no.1 injector controlling the other injectors does not apply - (that is the pre 2000 Tdi engines with conventional distributor pump and a lift sensor on no.1 injector) Running with MAF or MAP disconnected will not damage your engine, it just means the ECU defaults to extremely conservative settings which severely restrict power output to ensure emissions are not exceeded. The injector loom problem is just the VW old problem of substandard cable that their suppliers keep on supplying. They save 2p and in return give cables which the insulation goes brittle exposing cores that then either short or oxidise and break.

You have of course checked there is water in the bottle..... The pipe sometimes pops off in the tailgate.

I have seen photos of a caliper stripped down on a german website and it clearly shows the heavily rusted and corroded adjustment mechanism buried inside that causes all the problems. For what its worth, brand new calipers can be had for as little as

I'd agree with Chris that the injector loom/injector connections are the prime suspect. I wouldnt have thought these show up on VAGCOM afaik. Faulty sensors such as MAF, MAP and temp cause power loss but not rough running (usually).

U1451 here -> "Invalid or Missing Data for Function Read Audible Warnings" Likely a data bus is broken/disconnected and data isnt accessible Check all the wiring loom connections in the engine, did he disconnect anything when he lowered the gearbox?

Agreed.. Disconnecting the main battery doesnt affect the immobiliser. The usual problem is someone opens the key to change batteries (or sometimes they just come apart) and the PATS chip, which is just wedged inside the blade end falls out. Its so small most people don't notice it. But without it its impossible to start the engine apart from the 2 sec period before the immobiliser shuts the engine down. Try another key......

Yeah, got the receipts for filters, oil etc. Don't anticipate any problems - but there's always a first time...... Just I get more nervous with age......

I service my own car - I dont trust garages after a few bad experiences plus they are too expensive. When I arranged my Green Card for the latest trip to Europe, Tesco convinced me to take out European Breakdown cover. I told the girl that my car was 12 years old and I do my own servicing and I didnt think my car would qualify but she said no it was OK. Today, reading the policy (which I was told was basically Green Flag) there is a general exclusion clause that is constantly referred to. "Vehicles which have not been maintained and operated in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendation" As I'm not big on record keeping nowadays, although I know my cars as well looked after as any dealer serviced car, would I have any problems? What do you think? Ditch the cover or keep it in case I need to be towed off an autobahn somewhere? Would Tesco start a Spanish Inquisition after an "incident" - particularly if it involved a lot of expense?

You need to try a known good MAF sensor - and make sure its the right one for your engine.

Have fitted some upgrade bulbs - Osram night breaker - and looking at the lights I noticed a certain amount of misting on the inside of the front lens. I also notice the clips around the glass lens - just wondered has anyone ever taken a lens off for cleaning the inside of the unit?

Not planning to make a habit of it. Towbar and trailer too expensive an option plus insurance not keen (want to charge).

OK - I hired a Thule Roofbox for this trip. Cleared it with my insurance company, but.....they will not cover any damage to the roofbox, also my checked Travel insurance again no cover. Despite initially verbally saying my liabilty is limited to the security deposit of