seatkid

Check the main vacuum pipe from the servo - its common to split at either end.

A late reply I know, but you should know better. GET A FIXED PRICE QUOTATION BEFORE AUTHORISING ANY WORK OR SERVICE. Rip off price.

You can operate the boot lock manually, but you have to physically rotate the key beyond the normal unlock position. This requires a little effort and its possible that its stiff due to lack of use. You can also access the door latch mechanism from inside the car (you'll have to oik the seats out of the way. I'm fairly sure you can can unlatch it using a screwdriver.

Hold the key in the door lock position for a few seconds and see..... Then hold it in the unlock position and.......... Magic??

The PATS (immobiliser) chip is a small black or grey block in the key that readily drops out if the key head is opened. The car will not start without it. Either look for it (where the key came apart - it may be in the drivers footwell for instance ) or use your spare key. PATS chip PATS in key Good luck in finding it!

Where was the loom burnt?

Problems with idle speed are usually either the idle control valve or an air leak. Check all vacuum pipes for splits etc,common one is the main brake servo feed (both ends). Even check the inlet manifold bolts are not loose, I remember one thread where they discovered the bolts and the manifold were loose.

Unfortunately at 10 years, broken wires and flaking insulation in the flex areas (rubber gaitors) becomes normal wear and tear. Also you will find lots of other marginal quality issues start to take their toll. e.g. the state of suspension components Be prepared for lots more stupid faults in the next few years but this site can usually help people stay on top of most of them without breaking the bank.

Start the car and after a minutes running or so, turn on the headlights and check the battery voltage whilst still running. It should be around 14.3 volts. If its less than say 13.8 volts, get someone to increase the revs to 1500+ rpm and check again. If youve still got less than 13.8 volts then your alternator may be kaput, or you have a main fusebox problem (burnt terminal on the alternator lead), or you battery is kaput. Other wise just fix the wires in the boot gaitors and buy yourself a new battery. PS the "smart charging" system referred to earlier only applies to some models fitted with Ford engines (Galaxy 2.0 & 2.3L) - all other variants have standard VW specced alternators.

Hmm hadnt noticed that.....Missing MAF sensor begs the question - what did the previous owner really do? Yes, a good possibility of previous owner grossly understating a major incident. Damaged engine due to attempting to drive through deep water quite likely. Damaged valve gear, hydraulic tappets, camshafts, pistons, conrods all possible. Compression test is first step to take.

White smoke from exhaust is usually because the injection timing is out, check the timing belt is correctly installed or hasnt jumped a tooth. Faulty crankshaft or cam sensors can also lead to incorrect timing. In all cases the performance will be down significantly and starting usually poor Can also be due to low compression. (Worn rings or burnt/damaged valve seats) - try a compression test. Performance may not be down much in this case. White smoke indicates low combustion temperature or incomplete combustion (late injection) leading to unburnt fuel - hence the smell.

I would say you have air leak post throttle. Check the brake vacuum pipe - commonly it splits at the ends i.e. brake servo end and inlet manifold end.

My next move would be replace water pump and thermostat and fix the run on pump. Only if the problems persist go to head off job.

Get the coolant chemically tested for a head leak?

Yes.....the top mount can be notoriously hard to remove. But...why are you changing them? Do you realise that the Galaxy has a floating strut design and the strut/bearing drops when lifting the car off the ground. This is normal and not a fault. It is often misdiagnosed by mechanics (often on purpose to get business) and sometimes by MOT testers - although not only should all testing take place with all wheels on the ground (on swivel plates), there is specific guidance in the MOT testers manual regarding these floating strut designs. Its rare that Galaxy front strut mountings/bearings really fail.

1. Download the zip file 2. Extract the zip file to a temp folder 3. Burn the contents of the zip file to a CD-R - make sure to set the volume label to ISEN0401 4. Install from the CD 5. Run the program with administators rights (doesnt work with restricted rights)

http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

Also these files from previous posters in this thread may help Hydronic_20D5WZ_2025_2216_20TD_2006_202003_20JE.pdf AuxHeater.pdf

Maybe this will help ... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14SUSxfPHPY

I hazard a guess that this points to a duff water pump, I'm fairly certain the aux heater would be self bleeding. Heaters blowing hot then cold also seem to support this. The common problem is the impeller in the pump is plastic and becomes detached from the shaft. Even if you stick your fingers in to check if the impeller is loose may not work as you could move the impeller a little and it seems as if its on the shaft firmly.

Double check this - the Shalaxy design uses a floating upper strut mount. When the car is lifted off the ground and the wheels hang, the struts drop by several mm. This is often misdiagnosed as a worn mount....

It could be all you need to do is to tighten the PAS belt. really need to know the engine code. I suspect it the 90bhp 1Z engine. My 98 S Reg 90bhp AHU engine is relatively easy to replace the belts. AHU engine only (it may be the same for the 1Z engine, but cant confirm) : - IIRC in order to replace the aux belt, you first need to remove the PAS belt. Remove the engine undertray - 4 bolts (2 each side) plus 2 nuts at the back, drop the tray, jack up the drivers side front wheel a little and then you can slide out the tray, and have access to the PAS belt. Loosen the PAS pump mounting bolt(s) a little and there is a rack and pinion type tensioner on the pump, loosen the pinion bolt and then you can use a spanner to easily adjust the pinion and so the belt tension - loosen it fully to remove the belt. If you then want to change the aux belt, you have to remove the air filter box. Unplug the MAF sensor, undo and remove the MAF sensor from the air filter box (two bolts and slide back - dont lose the O ring). Then unclip the the top half of the box, lift it off and move to one side (taking care not to damage the small pipe attached to the back of this bit). Remove the air filter, the front grill air intake hose (push fit), then you can pull the bottom half of the air box up and out. Now you have clear access to the aux belt and its tensioner. You ideally need a tool like this Sealy VSE5753 to easily move the aux belt tensioner so the belt can be removed. Make a note of the aux belt routing, before you remove it - its not obvious how the belt goes on! Remember, diesel engined Shalaxys need the engine undertray fitted to prevent water splash onto the PAS belt - which can lead to heart stopping momentary loss of power assistance (the steering still works but is very very heavy).

What I do.... If the scratch hasnt gone deep into the colour layer which is below the top lacquer layer, i.e. only the lacquer is scratched Clean it carefully and thoroughly, using a solvent cleaner to remove wax etc, then blow over some car lacquer over it. (maybe mask off around the scratch if you are a bit scared or not great with a spray can) The idea is to fill up the scratch in the lacquer coat. If it needs more than one pass to fill the scratch, allow 10 mins between passes to avoid runs. Allow to dry for at least 24 hours, then T cut, or better still use proper fine rubbing compound to polish the lacquer/ overspray. This cuts/removes the overspray, but leave the scratch filled, which should just disappear........ Always works for me.

All Mk1 and Mk2 diesel engines are cambelt. The 110ps engine in the 1998 model is the AFN variant

First remove the MAF sensor from the air box - unplug the connector follwed by undoing the 2 allen key bolts that hold the sensor on . Slide the sensor out backwards, it may need a litle twisting as the O ring can be quite tight. There are 4 clips on the airbox - one up at the bulkhead end, one down at the headlight end and two on the right hand side (engine side). Unclip these out of the way and pull the engine side end up (grab hold of the bit the MAF went into), then when that side is up a couple of inches , pull the airbox top towards the engine to disengage the tabs that mate with the bottom half. Be careful not to break off the small pipe that comes out at the top end.