seatkid

For a Seat Alhambra (and probably Ford Galaxy too) Try phoning Marsalls of Bedford contact Peter Moden 01234 271971 When I bought (back in 1998 admittedly) they were the only dealer I found who were professional and courteous and they offered the best price with no hassle straight away over the phone. I was really impressed with Peter (and it takes a lot to do that) - no hard sell, just honest and a real gentleman.

Sounds like might be vacuum problem - check out the vacuum pipes before coming to any other (expensive) conclusion. see http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/Forum/index.php?showtopic=1314 to see what I mean...

You do over 10,000 miles in 4 days? That must some kind of record...... :angry: 100 hours means 100 hours driving time....

This has been covered in previous posts. Yours is a PD engine and it requires oil to VW specification 505.01 - (note the 01 and not 00). Oil to this spec is fully synthetic, expensive and rare outside of dealers. Look for VW505.01 on the can's list of approved specs. Anything else e.g. VW505.00 is not suitable and would in theory invalidate your warranty!

Its too easy to misdiagnose noise as coming from water the pump. I've changed water pumps on other cars only to find that it wasn't the water pump at all! :huh: doh! :o Normally you dont change it until it starts leaking as catastophic failure is uncommon. Bearing failure usually means leaks, not noise. That squeaking/squeeling could be coming from a host of other places, (tensioner, alternator, even oil pump pressure relief valve!) are you really sure its coming from the water pump? :unsure: You'll kick yourself if it not!!!! (guaranteed)

:huh: Crickey! :o Soon it will not be worth keep a car longer than 3 years! The annual MOT is getting out of hand now and is in danger of becoming an open cheque book for unscrupolous dealers (because many failures now are down to the "personal opinion" of the tester) :unsure: On the other hand maybe I'll just hold on to my 98 model when this EOBD starts failing every new car... look at those posts referring to high (1000 rpm) idling speed on 2.0 litre models as OK / not worth fixing - these would be failures under a EOBD embracing MOT?

Normally its enough to just pull the outside or interior handle (as if you were opening a closed door) to reopen the latch (of course make sure the doors are "unlocked" first).

I never played with a petrol model but here goes...(Anyone with 1st hand experience let me know if I'm wrong) Firstly make sure that the engine is really idling at 1000 rpm before going round the houses. Try disconnecting the battery for a minute (ignition off, of course and make sure you know your radio code before you do this). This will reset the ECU and I think the dials will recalibrate automatically when you first restart. (I think) idle speed is controlled electronically by the ECU and (I think) it is not adjustable. I assume it used to idle correctly not long ago (i.e. there is a fault) Suggestions are Check the engine is getting up to temperature and temp gauge shows approx midway when warm ? (i.e. thermostat and temp sensor OK) Check accelerator cable for damage and correct installation (check both ends) Check throttle body for damage or presence of stuff stopping the throttle closing completely (externally or internally) Check the vacuum pipe connected to throttle body (both ends) - is it leaking? The next steps involve checking out the electronic sensors and ECU - simplest way probably is to go to a dealer and ask to run a diagnostic on the ECU - if a sensor (or wiring) is faulty it will probably show up.

If Ford/SEAT/VW really wanted to sell me a new car, then how about (heated) air conditioned vibro massage seats (as per top of range Mercedes). Also add one of them "Slightest Touch" thingys (search bbc news) and I'd have trouble in getting the wife out of the car I reckon.

865rpm - warm

Maybe the switch is the same as another model (Mondeo??? Golf????) B) If you want decide not to procede and its a Mk 1 Galaxy, I might be interested in buying the offside unit and surround if the price is right..:rolleyes:

Definitely not. Surely 12 month warranty would apply to replaced part. But something else must be wrong, to requote a previous posting....(FORD TSB) Check that this additional "diode" was fitted and is not damaged. Theres a good chance that only the wiper motor module (not the whole wiper motor) was broken.

Global opening/closing has always been a feature as far as I recall (both 96 basic and "luxury" 98 Alhambras had it) - not a problem cos u have to hold the key in position for about 3 seconds before it operates. Very handy to close everything (sunroof,rear quarters etc) when locking up, and handy in summer to open up a hot car! Next you'll been moaning about heated seats like Jeremy Clarkson, he couldnt recognise a useful feature even if it hit him between the eyes! :lol:

Ask a SEAT dealer to check their computer for Reg No. or chassis No. - if it has been dealer serviced it should show up there. Check fuses - its a 20A (Yellow) on mine

What happened SA? you given up servicing that little beetle and gone into show biz? :lol:

do u mean Mussey, on my golf the spring action went as you descibe it before the paddle finally broke. Must have been bent or something because fitting a new paddle fixed it.

Make sure they also change the automatic tensioner!!! (see other threads re: cambelts)

Looking at the TIS, the door locks look very similar to my Golf. On the Golf, I bust a frozen lock trying to unlock it. When I came round to fix it, I discovered it was actually the latch mechanism that engages with the strike plate that froze - not the lock barrel. (the paddle on the end of the key barrel which operates the latch broke - fortunately this bit is replaceable) On the Golf, (possibly Galaxy too), it was dead easy to remove a handle c/w lock barrel (one screw - no door trim needs to be removed) - If I had a persistent problem, I would remove the handle/barrel - spray the barrel and more importantly the internal latch liberally with WD40 (use that handy extension tube) to displace all the water inside it. Alternatively maybe try removing the torx screw above the door latch and squirt some WD40 in there - any thoughts anyone? Personally never had a problem with both my Alhambras even at -20 deg C. :lol: Strange they didn't ask me for that survey though... :lol:

I prefer to keep it in the garage, have fully comp insurance, don't keep laptops etc. in the car B) plus live & work in a decent area....must remember to lock the car..... Anyway Alhambras all have immobiliser/alarm gizmos as standard, dont they? :P Apparently Sharalaxies are so unreliable its unlikely it could be driven away .... :lol: :lol:

You're pulling too hard! :angry: When you pull out the light switch to the 1st detent only the front fogs come on, pulling out to the 2nd detent both front and rears come on. :) The headlight on my alhambra arent that good :( , and at the risk of incurring SA's wrath ;) , I find that foglamps make a big difference.(when you've got iffy eyesight like me, :) after all I'm 95 years old :) :lol: ) Apart from bad weather, I use them on B roads when there is poor or no road marking (on the continent mainly) or on twisty difficult routes (e.g. Pennine routes) It allows me to see and judge the edges of the road. Most modern cars with low set foglights don't bother me at all. Rant: Badly glaring headlights from using poor quality bulbs bother me a lot.- see http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/product_test/...ry.php?id=39920 Autoexpress product report on bulbs - quite an eyopener B). Rear fogs in good weather is a definite no no. I do wish taxi drivers with tired rear bulbs or boy racers with those black clusters would all be arrested..... Once got pulled over by police in Poland for driving on fogs without any fog. There were no road or edge markings of any description, roads were filthy, without fogs it would have been impossible to say where the road was, I wonder if having an accident was more acceptable. :) Not sure those little round foglights on the MkII Sharalaxies are any good - do they spread the light properly sideways or are they just for show?

I just quickly checked my Alhambra, the bell housing has an AE logo cast in it and the plastic bungs etc all have Ford logos. Remember its a 98 model. AE (part of T&N?) went bankrupt (absbestos claims victim) around 2000 and so maybe Ford were then forced to fit VW boxes.

Ford TIS....

I was referring to the style of the gearknob and the the reverse lift collar - very Ford and not VW. The VXT75 is Ford's box for the galaxy, cable operated.... Plus it doesn't baulk in second (or first).