seatkid

There's no guarantee when you buy at a car boot sale.........The box in the picture is a Delphi (lockheed) box, but this is Ebay we're talking about Why not try your local Delphi distributor? :) they may surprise you.... Brakes and tyres - probably the most important safety kit on your car.....

ooo err....never seen any filter that tight that a screwdriver wouldnt budge! Without looking at whats left its difficult to give advice. A CHISEL IS NOT RECOMMENDED! As MM says are you sure you've be trying to turn the correct way (Anticlockwise looking up from underneath the engine) Can you give a fuller description of whats left? A photo? You need to spin the collar at the top of the filter, the centre of this is the screw on bit. When you come to fitting a new filter, then provided a filter is fitted correctly, it should come off using two hands. Smear gasket with oil, spin on until the gaskey *just* mates with housing face, then tighten just one third turn extra. Check for leaks after filling/running. A lot of OEM filter have a socket or screwdriver attachment welded to the bottom of the can for easy peasy removal.

So far I have restrained from commenting but now I'm getting a bit weary with your ads.... Read the Acceptable Use Policy 5. Commercial postings are not permitted on our forums, or private messaging systems. They are not a depository for press releases, adverts, or any other solicited or unsolicited commercial communication, this includes implied advertising as we are aware that users will use different names to get a message across (please note we log IP addresses and system configurations and are aware when this is in practice). Why not just get your own website and post a link.

All you need now is the correct size security torx screwdriver......doh! :o

view from inside the engine bay looking to front.....

Don't know how this will help View from above, the pop out thingy that you push is in the bottom lh quarter

Yes, there was a batch of condensors circa 2000 which all leaked around one of the pipes (IIRC the one connected to the receiver dryer) But, No, compressor failure is, in my opinion, almost always due to lack of lubricant. Any major component change (e.g. condensor), they MUST change receiver/dryer and refill lubricant.IMO they should remove the compressor, empty and measure the lubricant there and refill the system with the total amount calculated as per Ford TIS instructions. (a very clear and specific calculation).

On your door pillars....

Can I have the petrol they took out for my Skoda? ;)

Bah, I still remember when diesels ran on coal dust and wood chippings..... :huh:

There are a number of variants. Some don't have the ultrasonics, and some don't have the bonnet switch. Simulate a break-in......Open the drivers window, lock the car so the led flashes. Then open the door using the handle inside - the alarm (horn) should go off.

PD = pumpe deuse VAG german techno speak for unit injector technology. AFAIK all Shalaxy diesels built after aug 2000 (i.e. MKII) are PD engines - available in 115,130 and now 150 bhp variants. (All those built before are old Tdi technology) PD engines require a very special engine oil......

DON'T UNDO the bolts in the tray. The Gearbox will drop out! :huh: IIRC do a search and you will see this has happenned before. You need to support the gbx from underneath somehow......

Usually its because you left a window or sun roof open a bit. The rapid change in air temp e.g from a draught fools the internal ultrasonic detectors.

Difference of opinion is because what you have done is rarely seen, and so we are extrapolating our knowledge.....:( There are lots of anecdotes about BMW drivers forking about thousands of pounds for the same mistake. But the reality is they were going to be taken to the cleaners by the dealers anyway.... :huh: Unlike your conclusion, any damage will be immediately obvious...new injectors at worst.....

Don't worry, diesels don't run on petrol, they stop (immediately). PD's are better in this situation than convential TDIs as there is no distributor pump involved, the capacity of an PD injector pump is a couple of cc. There are no rotating parts in a PD. I'm sure it'll be alright....

.but for how long?......

yup, you got a problem too! :( You should not get any flashing symbols on start up....

Well said, that man.. :(

Relax, The cruise liner, Queen Elizabeth II, moves only six inches for each gallon of diesel that it burns. :(

I just love it when people are so precise in their description of a fault.. :)

And pigs are flying again today. Since when did the FSA get involved with warranties.... :) :)

Are they going to strip it down completely? I mean how do you empty an a/c system of oil? How do you flush an a/c system - what does this mean? According to the TIS when refilling the oil, specific quantities should be plced in the each component, compressor,condensor,evaporator and dryer individually. I am not trying to be negative, just trying to understand how a proper "full" service could be done. I've a feeling the garage's words made you feel comfortable but I doubt they are going to do everything they said. Which leads on to my question about "servicing" where they just vac and refill. What happens to the oil during leaks and servicing?

New pump - new rack - just the pipes left? Are you sure its not just the tensioner? They seize/fall to bits etc. would cause belt wear and intermittent drive (vibration)