seatkid

Change the pads and clean up the caliper.

Yes, thats why I say don't rush to conclusions..... Topping up every two months is not the quantity of water that would steam up your windows. I think you just need a new pressure cap. What I would do is run the heater on full blast heat and fan for a long while (on a dry day) without the a/c say half an hour. See if that makes a difference. At the end you should not get any misting (high heat, lowish fan setting, to windscreen) When you run your a/c on max cooling (hot humid day) do you see water dripping underneath the car?(rear bulkhead), if not then the a/c drainage is blocked and the condensed water is building up in the evaporator unit. It will need unblocking and an antibacterial treatment done. Alternatively get a pressure test done on the cooling system (this may make any leak much worse)

Did you take out the overflow pipe as well? If not and 1.5 litres came out, then the box was well and truly overfilled and may have been damaged. Do you think the guy even used the correct fluid? All I can say is drain the box (remove overflow pipe) and refill with new fluid, though you won't be able to drain all the fluid.......

If you changed discs and pads then did you make sure you cleaned the discs thoroughly with a solvent (brake cleaner)? There is a protective film of oil on the discs.... When you change discs and pads, not much bedding in is required. I would bleed the brakes if I were you, flush the crap out. Don't worry too much, the damage to the ABS unit is only theoretical.

IIRC If u press MAN several times it goes through various options one of which is AVC - this is the volume v speed sensitivity. U can increase/decrease/turn it off.

:blink:

There's no valve but before you jump to conclusions, be aware its common for windscreen to steam up with a/c off due to poor drainage from the a/c condensor. In this case its also common for musty smells due to bacterial growth in the a/c condensor/heater. The small leak might be due to a duff pressure cap, also make sure you don't overfill it, it will blow off anything over the max mark. Having said that, the VR6 seems prone to heater matrix leaks......

Who knows? :D On mine, its spasmodic, only occurs while manouvering at very slow speed (usually reversing), engine warm, only at one point on the right hand lock. Can go days without hearing it. When I complained to dealer under warranty they couldnt find anything wrong :D Maybe its something to do with the fluid (e.g. water content, and cavitation)

I think youre confusing horizontal ribbed belts with poly-v belts. A ribbed belt has lateral ribs and yes the water can be squeezed out of a traditional two part pulley. A poly-v however has longitudinal grooves and water (in the inner v's) has no-where to go on a high speed machined pulley (except continue round the pulley). Poly V belts were developed many years ago to transmit much higher power than a single v belt. The horizontal ribbed belt was developed for higher grip in a contaminated environment but are not used in the Galaxy. Anything that might comprise safety should not be encouraged on this forum...

1.5L is better than nothing, you could run for a while and do it again if you want to be a perfectionist.

The intermittent graunch/trumpeting sound as you turn towards full lock (always seems to occur at the same postion of lock and only as you move the steering wheel - usually when manouvering at slow speed i.e. significant load) is.... the oscillating pipe problem refered to on the TIS.

DO NOT DRIVE WITHOUT THE UNDERTRAY. The Galaxy has a vunerable design and there are many documented instances of loss of power steering as a result. Ford and VW warn about this. Your insurance would be invalid if you drove knowingly without this and you had an accident involving loss of power steering. marcusheawood is talking **** when he says polyvee belts work under water. [Edit: Apologies to marcusheawood for language.....]

Might put a bid in, will

If its only on full lock, its normal. Its the unloading valve. Youre not meant to hold it on full lock for long (max 30 sec otherwise you risk temp loss of power assistance)

90% of rough running/ misfire problems with petrol engines are ignition related. Cold -> damp -> leads tracking due to insulation being aged/perished. Faulty Lambda doesnt usually cause rough running just emission problems, and wouldnt that be across the rev range anyway?

plugs and/or leads

A large useless drain on the CAP..... <_<

Mk 1 - any bulb in under a minute <_< that's progress for you.....

Sounds like ignition leads to me.....

Some stupid bint in Sainsbury's car park who can't see reversing lights got me so wound up, I subsequently proceeded to reverse into the pick up bay bollards, reshaping my front nearside wing (why do Tdi develop so much torque you can't even feel its ploughing something down?) Anyway question is, am I right in thinking the wings are single skin - I am planning on trying to straighten it myself using wood blocks and a mallet inside the wing. Fortunately the plastic cover on the bollard meant no paint damage just a dent/crease/different shape. Anyone got tips? Or should I use a dent specialist (how much

In my case when I unplugged my faulty MAF it made no difference....the ECU presumably had given up on it.

The MAF calibration is up the spout but the MAF "thinks" its alright and the computer "thinks" its alright......just that the air is a bit thin today......or your filters clogged up.....it takes a trained technician to interpret the indicated flow rates and as we proved time and time again, these people don't exist. Classic symptoms, 90% probability Maf is knacked

Don't know about that.... :)

Most likely broken wire in the loom, they break in the rubber boot to the door - v. common...looks like a door card off job....

OK - engine tray off....... AG4 transmission - Procedure to check automatic transmission fluid level Note: Do not remove the overflow pipe. (The drain plug screws into this) Unscrew the drain plug. Bring the automatic transmission fluid to a test temperature of 35C to 45C. If automatic transmission fluid drips from the drain plug bore in the overflow pipe at the test temperature, the fluid level is correct. If necessary, top up with automatic transmission fluid until it starts coming out of the overflow pipe in the drain plug bore. Fit the drain plug using a new seal and tighten it. engine tray on..... Note: The transmission will not function properly if it does not contain the correct quantity of transmission fluid. The transmission fluid is added while the engine is running.