seatkid

Normal - unless its a hot day and your working the car really really hard. It is a big radiator and the diesel is very efficient, and you also have a big interior heating circuit going to the back of the car, bottom hose is the cool end of the circuit. My car usually only gets lukewarm top hose (hot end) unless on motorway/heavy load. IIRC my original stat had 83 deg stamped on it.

Please help? What do you want us to do? I dont know what I'm looking at on those 1st two photos.... :unsure: ?? As for aux belt - the ribbing should be on the inside not on the outside, is it fitted wrong? Cracks like that are normal for an old belt and arent too serious but is bits of ribbing are missing then yes it should be changed. If you just bought the car, have a word with the friendly bloke who sold you it. If he is a dealer/trader he is obliged under SOGA to fix it or take the car back.

One possibility is a cracked cylinder head - has the car been remapped or had a tuning box in the past? Another possibility is a faulty thermostat and/or water pump (was the water pump an OEM item?)

Try locking and unlocking 2-3 times, sounds as if the deadlock is engaged.

Airbag light faults need to be reset by diagnostics or VAGCOM/VCDS IIRC.

I know its too late now, but it sounds as if the small recessed button that sits between two of the main buttons (cant remember which) was jammed in - this is the button that allows temperature indication change from C <-> F.

IIRC G22 is the speed sensor in the (auto?) gearbox. Of course it could also be a wiring fault - dancing gauges are sometimes due to poor earth connections - water damage perhaps.

Take no notice of this suggestion. The Shalaxy front suspension design is such that the top strut will drop by several mm when the body is jacked up. This is normal.

The "big short" is overheating due to a faulty crimp on the big alternator cable. Very common problem and usually requires a new fuse box (quite cheap from dealers) and a new alternator lead or the crimp needs to be soldered up. As for your fault, give us a clue as to you car/year/engine/variant and someone might tell you which fuse to start looking at

If changing batteries dont fix your fob, then its probably one of the many that just die of old age - check for dry joints, but from my experience its a component drift issue (I suspect the ceramic resonator) and cant realistically be fixed. So first item you list is an empty case, and your duff electronics wont even fit in it. 2nd item is "sold as seen" basically the seller is saying it works, but offers no guarantee of "compatibility" - which sounds a lot to me like my remote fob - press a key and the led flashes - but due to "non compatibility" (its fucked) - it doesnt actually open or close doors remotely... take a gamble if you like.....

Yes First you need to remove the snapped bolt - in all probability the head will have sheared off leaving the threaded bit left inside. But by all previous accounts on the forum (try a search), its usually not too difficult to remove this. Try Ford/VW/Seat Dealer for the bolt - probably VW will be cheapest. It needs to be a high tensile bolts (i.e. ordinary bolts dont last long.

Check the engine roll restrictor bar - fitted underneath between the gearbox and the front sub frame - the common fault is the bolt shears. item 20/21 here Often you can check it merely by rocking the engine back/forward by hand - if you hear a clunk/bang, the bolt is snapped. Otherwise the front droplinks give all sorts of nasty bangs even if an inspection cant see any obvious play.

Seized mechanism (spindles) - common fault see http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/7338-front-wipers-creeping-up-the-screen/?do=findComment&comment=82520 and search - lots of other threads with tips/pictures on how to fix Other possibilty is a faulty wiper contol module (water damage to PCB) again search forum for lots of advice on this.

Possibly faulty injector wiring loom/connections - common fault - sometimes just cleaning the injector connectors can clear the fault but more often a new wiring loom is required. see this thread on how to replace and this thread on undoing that difficult bolt

The themostat is elsewhere - not here. You need to remove the part from the flange/ clean the alumininium face - fit a new O ring - no need for sealant see here http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=kzaYZlo2mGYcNphm0WzwX6J3wUDAb3DCiC6YZqJpGFaTNpoZcxScapMA3n6TFpjsnmVR/DSXPEWDTJVT3Cw4Uvs2yfpNPrBA/GhJG2m433BEUQPyD3qNXaZmlWMTVtl_lCC6kFj6uzaLC8IGNihY4ba0tDfFA5SkjYR2BAeMtlfeUETGeJPWYULKrhSb2v9Gaxh87OOXubfbAKg=

All Mk1's have lap belts in centre middle seat. You can remove any seat you like and shuffle their positions, so 6 six seats only with 3 point belt can be done in a number of positions. They are Tdi (mk1) or PD (mk2) diesel engines - all strong and pretty reliable provided basic servicing has been done. The PD requires special oil (not expensive) - a small number of owners/garages dont use the correct oil leading to premature failure of the injector camshaft. (try and check receipts oil should be 505.01 or 507 spec) A number of common faults crops up, some are difficult to diagnose but most are cheap to fix (most garages are incapable of diagnosis of faults leading to enormous bills on diagnosis and incorrect things being changed - hence the value of this forum) If buying take for a decent test drive. Check 1. good/consistent acceleration al the way up to 70mph+ (a faulty MAF sensor/turbo makes them gutless and struggle to reach 70 mph) 2. easy starting/good idle/no smoking 3. no strange noises/banging/grinding/rough running. 4. No warning lights (abs/flashing glowplug light etc) - these should only come on momentarily when turning on the ignition (self check) 5. some evidence it has been serviced regularly. 6. steer clear of cars that have been remapped/tuned - they usually die early. 7. Automatic boxes are unreliable and often fail at 100k - very very expensive to fix. also - 8. bangs or rattles from suspension over bumps is quite common but usually cheap/easy to fix (drop links) 9. check a/c is working - if not (common) then it could be anything from regas (cheapish) to major repairs (~£500) but not everyone is bothered about a/c if price is low. It can get pretty warm in a Shalaxy however..... 10. usual things like tyres/rust etc 11. electrical issues with door/tailgate wiring is very very common due to breaks in the tailgate/door gaitors. The symptoms vary from locking issues/speakers not working windows not working - all easy to fix when you repair the broken wires, Some wierd symptoms also caused by same wiring issue. 12 check you get at least two keys. Remote locking often fails after several years - 50/50 if changing the key batteries fix it as some fobs fail (on remote locking - but manual/central locking/ignition still ok) - just learn to live with minor inconvenience of manual locking.

Your mechanic sounds incompetent. First give us some information to work with. Engine type/model/year (petrol/diesel/engine code) Does the starter crank? Any beeps or warning lights? Relay 30 if petrol engine is a prime candidate.

Regarding sluggish/poor acceleration - this is typical of a failing/faulty MAF sensor - also check they plugged it back in.......unfortunately the only way to check a MAF sensor is to replace it - it does not throw a fault on VCDS

As the autos are prone to breaking it might be prudent to change the gearbox oil as its probably well past its cook by date. Note: special spec oil needed and quite an eleborate process to change - search forum for more detail.....

Does your solution prevent this?

Probably wiring or sensor issue, several reports of this previously but IIRC difficult to trace fault. Try a search of the forums

Rear silencer missing??? Are you sure? Obviously been customised? - in that case could be anything...... Why on earth did you buy such a car? Sluggish - not very descriptive - if its a 90bhp model they are quite slow.....otherwise it might be MAF sensor....or EGR valve....or timing....or.....

High failure rate and very expensive to repair (often more than the car is worth). Stay away from autos that have towed caravans etc or have remapped engines - they are the ones that will fail as the boxes are very sensitive to too much torque.

replace the tensioner pulley and belt but not the tensioner itself as its usually ok (its just a strongly sprung lever) and that bits quite expensive and a bit fiddly top change (again expensive). Before putting the belt on check the alternator pulley as suggested by paul. If its a PD engine the pulley will be a "one way pulley" - carefully hold the rotor of the alternator and check the pulley freewheels in one direction but locks in the other. They fail by locking in both directions which in turn stresses the tensioner causing it to bounce like mad at idle or under low speed acceleration -> belt/tensioner failure. If the alternator pulley looks as if its stuffed then first check the alternator part no. to make sure it is a one way pulley, then its either a new pulley (around £50 plus fitting) or a new alternator. Not all garages want to fit the new pulley......

All Shalaxies should have a buzzer/chime warning for lights left on when door opens.