seatkid

Are you sure you have dual cc? :wacko: Dont confuse dual temp control with dual cc. The dual system has airvents in the head lining at the rear and is rare. Seatkid said....There are two seperate refrigerant circuits for a dual system. If you have a dual system, you need to check both circuits for gas. The correct quantities are 950g for the front evaporator (single and dual cc) and 1350g for the rear evaporator (dual only)For each circuit there are two pressure switches - One is low pressure (not enough gas) - one is high pressure (too much gas or system fault). If you have a dual system there will be a pair for both circuits I think. Any of these switches can stop your system working.First check those quantities! Note: The above information regarding two circuits is incorrect - the correct info is Single CC - 950g -single circuit one evaporator Dual CC - 1350g - single circuit two evaporators Its sounds as if the high pressure switch is operating. This could be a faulty switch, too much gas or lack of system cooling - make sure the cooling fan in the engine works as soon as you turn the cc on.. Above 30deg C the system automatically switches to recirc to improve its efficiency, maybe there is a problem with the recirc flap. Check and establish if recirc is working properly.

:D Please join the queue of 129,413 other Shalaxy owners..... :) No queue jumping or shoving purleees.... :lol:

WELL DONE THAT MAN! :D I suspect that a large number of problems people have are in fact the pipes you replaced. I'm inclined to give mine a try too! Q. Did you cut out aluminium pipe and use flexi pipe in its place? 4 years non-working! Did you witness it first starting - were there any funny noises etc? Hope you replaced the dryer and what about the lubricant?

IIRC :D The brake switch is actually two switches (in one housing). It can break/go out of adjustment such that both switches don't work or only affecting only one switch. One switch operates the brake lights, the other is connected to the ECU and is used by the CC. More likely to be the hose though....

Timing is not affected when you change the MAF sensor. The timing should have be set when the belt was changed - its mechanically set and should be correct if they followed the correct procedure. No timing "tweak" is possible and if it was tooth out - you'd know about it - the engine would run like a pig if at all. Water is a definite possibility - maybe you have half a tank full - try emptying the fuel filter again, checking for water.

:( Can't see the option to vote for the hub caps .....are you trying to turn your Galaxy into a Corsa cruiser? :)

You have my sympathy as I know exactly how you feel. :P :D :( :D Unfortunately, your feelings regarding Ford customer service and your DEALER will stay with you a long,long time. B) e.g. Would you buy another Ford? (or SEAT/VW for that matter? :) I doubt if Ford have a policy to "replace the whole system", that is as stupid as replacing the engine if it won't start.. Oil black with metal particles in it? Maybe but I doubtt. Thats just a ploy to try and take you in. It could just be a condensor leak... Don't waste your time and money with solicitors. In your case,Ford are untouchable and you don't have enough hard evidence to win a case. You could try the small claims court, which will just cost you the filing fee (approx

Sorry to dampen your optimism but I had almost exactly the same scenario with SEAT. The A/C started giving problems at the end of the 3rd year - dealer pratted around with top-ups, dye etc. Kept it going for three or so months. Then I started paying

IIRC, the C/L unit stores up to 8 keycodes. Everytime you reprogram it for a new key, the oldest keycode is lost. Whether reprogramming it with the same key 8 times will work I can't guarantee, but I imagine it would. However you still have the problem of the "undesired" key can still open the car via the "mechanical" route. The immobiliser works via a different means. You will need dealer equipment to reprogram the PATS to remove codes.

Just look at the number of views on this thread! :angry: Its a pity this poll can't be updated as I'm sure most of those that voted "no problem" at first now have suffered the same fate as others....At a guess I would say that >90% of owners have major problems with their aircon after 3 years or have suffered major cost. The design is faulty in many ways including (but not limited to) - incorrect or very poor quality materials used - should aluminium pipes corrode/split? - are they wrong spec or finish? - undersized capacity - even when it works, its not very effective - incredibly service-unfriendly - changing an evaporator or even the pipework is a nightmare - evidently there is no workshop procedure for fault finding either....leaving us open to being "ripped off" by dealers who haven't a clue... There are advocates of the "regular servicing" mantra but my experience shows (to me) that dealers are very good at breaking things that were previously OK (and charging you for it) IMO VW have a well known habit of steadfastly refusing to admit a problem even when presented with overwhelming evidence. I don't know about Ford, but do recall that in the Cortina/Sierra days they wouldnt change the design of known weak items (e.g. bushes etc). With the old Shalaxy being a "joint" venture I think we possibly have the worst of all worlds with regard to design faults - unless its a safety issue it won't ever get fixed. But thats history now that Ford and VW have gone their seperate ways..... The only issues I have had are the a/c and regular suspension failures (ARB links and tie rod ends every 30,000 miles) - otherwise its been the most reliable car I've ever owned - 8 years/70,000 miles - and it averages 52mpg (mixed motoring,ave speed 40mph, last 3000 miles) which makes it more economical fuel wise that my little Skoda Fabia 1.2 (isnt that silly?) but I don't think I'll be buying another..... :ph34r:

They may have overfilled it, there are high and low pressure switches. It may also be a wiring fault or sensor fault. Faults can be read with VAGCOM AFAIK.

It tripped into limp home mode. You were demanding a lot of power and something in the turbo control loop was out of range for too long giving rise to under or overboost. Reasons for this could be MAF sensor, turbocharger, pressure/temp sensors, boost control solenoid, control vacuum blockage or leak, main airway leak from pipes/intercooler, or simply a blocked air filter......take your pick.

wheres the delete button?

How do you work that one out? Why should the Sharan have become yet another Caravelle?? The Mk 2 certainly hasn't gone in that direction (even though Ford had even less to do with the design and development of it than for the Mk 1), and is a significant improvement over the Mk 1. The VW Touran also hasn't, and neither will the new VW Sharan (which is based upon the latest Passat platform). Without Ford's commitment, VW would have done what they always do, build a niche model based on an existing platform. The only platform at the time was the caravelle/transporter chassis. They may have not bothered at all. Anyway Ford designed the MK 1 body/interior AFAIK and thats why is not like a passat or golf (of its day) inside. More mondeo I would say. In fact there are lots of Ford bits on the Mk1, electrical, transmission etc. With the VW diesel engine I like to think the Mk 1 has the best that both manufacturers could offer (a/c excepted). But the "arrangement" has its drawbacks.... they have done very little to develop the car further....sure, when the MkII came along VW took over and tweaked it to their liking, but only in a minimal cosmetic way. (i.e. low cost)

Definitely Yes/ Probably Yes I think you are reduced to (at best) fruit machine odds (i.e. controlled) and thats only with the reputable big boys. Anything is possible on the internet. Think ebay, think trojan, think keyloggers, think plain simple fraud. Play against a dealer/players/decks you can't see? If they wanted you would lose all the time but then you wouldnt come back for more. If you think you are playing solely against honest skilled players, think twice. Only play poker where you can see everything thats going on (i.e. round a table) Gambling has cost me and my family dear. I don't gamble but its cost me tens of thousands of pounds to put things right and theres still a mountain of debt left. Gambling can and does ruin peoples lives, I have first hand experience and that why this government make me want to explode with their super casino plans... I could go on and on but that would be reveal too much of my personal life. Think about it, the companies never lose.

Ford's contractual tie up with VW ended in Dec 2005, so the last mkII Ford Galaxy was built then. They are living on stock until the all new Ford Galaxy is launched later this month. It is designed 100% by Ford and built using 100% Ford parts in Fords Belgian plant in Gent alongside the recently launched SMAX. Meanwhile VW and SEAT will go their seperate ways. They no longer have anything to do with each other... Pity as the Mk 1 had a lot of Ford input and stopped the Sharan as we know it from becoming yet another Caravelle.

No, aluminium is very difficult to weld, requires special gear. Can't weld ali to copper AFAIK, maybe solder though. Why not replace all the ali pipe run with copper?

There is a ford service bulletin TSB 126/1998 about this, You cut the existing earth wire(s) to the radio and connect the radio earth to the vehicle chassis in close vicinity. The routing of the cable also should be "revised". For Ford type connectors Pin 2 (BN/YE) and Pin 6 (BN) For Iso type connectors Pin 6 (BN)

I still havent fixed my a/c after the dealers slowly killed it during year 2/3 of its warranty. ("yes we've definitley fixed it this time....." :P ) and SEAT refused point blank after the clock rolled on at midnight of year 3. :P ;) The final analysis from the dealer after countless refills of uv dye was... "were not really sure but it looks as if your evaporator is leaking. Yes we've change quite a few evaporators, its a common problem. And the compressor's got a slight leak too. Where? At the joint near the centre of the body. How much to change the evaporator? About

Don't think you should use any plastic piping, R134A would probably attack it in the way many solvents attack plastic - you then might have a sticky mess both inside and outside your a/c. Maybe you can get copper pipe of same dimensions, 8mm central heating pipe is easy to bend etc. They use copper in fridges, but you will have to watch copper/aluminium electroytic corrossion at the joint. If you can find the correct copper, theres gonna be compression fittings that size.... The other option is flexi piping, a specialist hydraulic or cooling supplier might help (it has to be R134A compatible).

This is my last comment on this thread..... :P You buy a car with 88k and full history....(that implies a warranty, no known faults and normal mileage). You drive it home, 10 mins later on your second drive you have lights flashing warning you of low oil pressure and engine management fault(s). You then proceed to spend a small fortune, changing random sensors, glowplugs, cambelt (if its a manual gbx with FSH, that would be due at 120k), service it. AND STILL you have lights flashing. You haven't checked the oil pressure as advised, you are now proposing to spend another

:huh: yeah!......rotting wings,doors, dodgy twin choke carbs, camshaft oil feeds clogging, snapping cambelts, recon ACR17's every year, live rear axles, new exhaust system every year, good ol' points... :D, yeah the parts were cheap.....but you needed a shedload every year and a resident mechanic to keep them going Anyone fancy vinyl roof and "roadster" wheels on your shalaxy? :huh:

Why not disconnect the battery for 5 min to force a reset of the ecu? remember to have your radio code before you disconnect it though.

Wasn't it hot today? :) I also note that pension funds seem to be going nowhere..... :(

That simply isnt true, all the manufacturer / insurance investigator has to do is to read the ECU program memory and generate a CRC checksum, which if it doesnt tally with factory settings means..... :angry: