Caff

chrispb123456 What solder did you use? Haven't got bits yet. VW for relay

Mm I think you will be proved right there. I'm going for a new cable and a new relay. Got the multimeter out. Can't remember the actual figures but when engine running on tick=over about 14.5 volts. Load from both heated screens (couldn't get to lights switch due to stripping to get at relay)and at about 2500revs gave 13.something. Hopefully we caught that cable early and the fusebox is undamaged, there's no corrosion of the connector. Will post back with results. Thanks again

Thanks seatkid. Took the fuse box cover off and the top wire shows signs of having got hot. It's very slight indeed. Just a slight melt to the cover and a little white powder on the black wire itself.Barely noticeable. Could this be the culprit? And I assume the reason for the clicking heard in the box? Or is this a separate issue? Sods Law. Is it just a case of cleaning up the connection.Or is it a change of the cable? Shows my ignorance but am I right in assuming the battery needs to be disconnected to do this? Have reproduced the problem by wiggling the cable. When it wouldn't start wiggling again it wouldn't start but tapping relay 109 it started! Sorry for so many questions. :unsure:

Update. Went to car this morning. Turned key in ignition. Didn't turn over but could hear a single click at black box by battery. Door LED - when locked - normal flashing. Turned key in ignition to second position (dash lights on) LED didn't light at all. Waited 2 minutes at least like this. Did this twice, no light, tried to start engine, fired first time! Got home, started first time again... and again. Now when starts just the one flash as it actually starts.

Have been searching through forum and not really found answer to this problem and am sorry if it's been asked elsewhere Good battery, heavy duty just under 1 year old, usually starts first time. Have not fiddled with key so pats chip should be there. Two keys same problem. 6 months ago. Just turned over wouldn't fire. Got out of car and found other key. Fired up fine. No probs for months. Today. Same thing, wouldn't fire. Engine cranked at correct speed. Tried again few minutes later and fired first time. Drove short distance. Car stood all day. Loaded it, locked it and some 15 mins later alarm went off. No obvious reason. Drove car home and back out again. No probs. Parked it again for about 3 hours. Turned over didn't fire. Tried again a couple of times, can just feel it's wrong. Then just nothing, won't turn over, not even a click. No audible sounds. Got different key. No difference. Does either nothing or turns over but doesn't fire. Can't hear pump priming. Didn't notice door light codes and have had to abandon the poor old thing. Is this a relay? Or something else. I'd really appreciate some help. Caff

That's great. I'm glad you've been able to post which fuse it was too. Much easier to sort out than checking every fuse. :blink:

Not sure how to link but I posted something similar a while ago titled "Clock, Trip, Heater And Drivers Door Not Working" The solution was to check every fuse. I don't know which fuse was the culprit but remember that it was marked "engine management" in the user manual. Caff

We have a Galaxy mk 2. We have an Atera Linea rack which fits to the tail gate. It comes with rails for 3 bikes and we purchased an extra set of rails to carry another bike. We consider it to have been a really good investment carrying the bikes very securely clamped no waving around and wobbling. The lights and plate are not obscured at all. The design may have changed but ours seems more set up for road bikes. Our mountain bikes are more bulky and fitting them all on is a little more difficult but when we only carry 2 or 3 bikes it's easier. It's not cheap but really worth it. You have to lift the bikes up roughly to chest height. Cath

Re door lock, clock and trip. After we had the classic flood in the passenger foot-well we had the same problem. It was a fuse. Haven't recorded which one except that our little user manual had it as an engine management fuse. After this was replaced all was well. We replaced the parking sensors control unit with one bought from good old Volkswagen. Good luck! Caff

Yes it's normal. Ours has only ever been different, lower, when the temperature sender stopped working.

Hi Have you checked the rear washer pipe? This has a join which, when it comes apart, allows the contents of your wash water reservoir to become a foot spa for your passengers. There's loads on this site regarding this. Also involved is the parking sensor unit which gets swamped. We have the same model car as you and have had no leaks involving the scuttles or anything else.

Can't really make out your photos but I had an Escort with a key that looked like that. The button was for the mini torch which lit along the key itself. Very useful and I could do with one for our Fiesta. Spoilt rotten by the Galaxy's remote locking. Your's wouldn't be one of these torch ones would it? Caff

Hi. Welcome to the Forum, a brilliant place for help and advice. My thoughts would be to suggest that you have a talk with your local Trading Standards Officer. This car looks like it could give you some grief. I personally would take it back to the garage and ask for my money back and tell them it's not fit for purpose or whatever the correct legal phrase is. The TSO would tell you your rights and the correct terms to use so that you go go armed as it were. All the best... Caff

I got mine from Bristol Batteries as they were cheaper than Halfords. If that information is of any use. Caff

Interested to hear what the outcome of this was. We have the same problem with a 2000 model. The outside of the tyre had a thousand miles left on it and the inside had no tread at all.

How long ago did Autoglass replace the screen? I had two screens in a row that had elements break down inside leaving large tracts of the screen still misty on both sides. Neither lasted a year and both were from Autoglass. The original screen had a crack so had to be replaced, there was nothing wrong with the elements. I had a bit of a spat with Autoglass but the second replacement was replaced at no cost. You have to watch out as their guarantee lasts only a year I think and depending when you have the screen fitted it is impossible to know whether the screen is working properly after a few months when the weather is warmer. I was told that the fitter bends the glass as he fits it, breaking the elements. I mentioned it to the fitter that came out to my car and he wasn't convinced. So if you are within warranty have a talk with Autoglass, the heated screen is not fit for purpose. Good luck Caff

Have just bought a Fiesta to keep the Gal company. (Well to keep the learner driver out really) Am looking for a forum as brilliant as the Galaxy one as I've already spotted things that need to be done. Any suggestions of forums or is there an address for the one that is supposed to be redirected from this Forum? Anything is better than the Haynes manual, although I suppose at least there is one for this car, unlike the Mk 2 Galaxy! Thanks Cath

I bought from VW. Had no luck with Fraud!

I was going to ask the same thing as our fuse for heater clock etc went after we had the flood.

We had this problem and it was the fuse. search for Clock, Trip, Heater And Drivers Door Not Working (funnily enough!)

Thanks for those thoughts. As far as I know the screens were brand new fitted by a supposedly very reputable mobile windscreen replacement service that all the insurance companies use. It seems strange that two have become faulty each within a year. The last screen was a Clearvu one. This new one is a Pilkingtons. I searched the forum for help on this subject and couldn't find anything. Maybe I searched the wrong words.

Further to my last posting my heated windscreen has been replaced but I have more queries! My first screen had no problems with heating elements for several years and was replaced because of a massive crack. I suspect however that this was also a replacement as there was a little glass here and there when I first bought the car when it was a year old. Two subsequent replacements have had heating elements fail within a year of fitting. I am now on a fourth screen. I had a chat with the fitter and he wondered if there was a fault with the relay which controls the screen. Several elements were burnt out across the screen in a random pattern on both sides. He thought a faulty relay could allow too much power to the elements which could then fail and the remaining elements then would get too much power, the whole thing slowly breaking down. He admitted he wasn't sure, he's not an electrician and it was only a theory but as I don't have a clue either I thought I'd ask you knowledgeable folks. Is his scenario a possibility? What exactly does the relay do. I know there is a time element but am unsure of what else. I have a horrible feeling that this relay is expensive and hidden away somewhere difficult but changing screens this often is ridiculous no matter who is paying. Your advice would, as usual be most welcome.

Yes thanks Mr T I had already read your previous posting. It doesn't seem to be one sided. My problem is that some of the elements on each side are working. There's a very annoying "malfunction" running down straight in front of the driver and other places. The middle bit is perfect! The previous screen was similar! chromedome. I don't know if it's OEM. Not sure that's an issue though as I didn't specify. I doubt the insurance company would have specified it. But it's a thought.

Would welcome some opinions from the forum before I send a very angry letter off... I had a cracked windscreen so insurance paid for a new one to be fitted and I paid the excess of

Yes...Bought mine from a VW main dealer. Darn sight cheaper than Ford. Can't remember how much I paid.